Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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A radiused collector will smooth flow into the turbine, but as noted, it will require some work to get the box to accommodate it with a proper filter in where you need it to be.
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There's all sorts of people in San Francisco that will show you all sorts of things, if you ask...
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If anything was MADE to be done with bent tubing, it's frame-to-frame members. That is not something you weld up like that... Save maybe as an example to the bender people "to make something like this by bending"...
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Mmmmmmm Diesel is Exempt from Smog.....(pre '99).... Mm mm,m gaaaarrrrgggh!
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FYI to update the post, ARP now offers a "KA24" Flywheel Bolt Kit with the same under-head grip length as the 3SGTE kit listed above. The kit only has the six bolts for the Nissan Application, instead of 8 for the Toyota.
P/N 102-2802
They also have a listing for RB26 FW Bolts with under-head grip length of 1.180", handy if you have bottom tapped your flywheel flange bolt holes and want an extra 0.180" thread engagement, or have some desire to use a hardened clamping washer so your nice soft aluminum flywheel doesn't stand such a chance of embedment and loosening of the bolts due to shock and vibration (HINT HINT!)
Here's the 2014 Linkey:
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I doubt the injectors were "bad", more rightly their inlet screens had become plugged and their flow suffered.
Back flushing them in an ultrasonic bath usually restores them to perfect function.
It's a solenoid plunger...there is little electrically to "fail", but they are susceptible to clogging.
I hope you saved them, especially if they were JECS/OEM units, send them in to RC have them cleaned, and you are set with spares that are likely better than new stock available today!
Good to see it was finally resolved.
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My oft used phrase of late: "I need this system like another hole in my head...but..."
The Supercharged 240 that I bought from Don Pineda's Mom has an early Analog Four-Barrel TBI system. He had that system sorted and running great back in the early 90's---which was the last time I saw it before I bought it off his mom after his sudden passing. That was another "I need another 240Z like a hole in the head, but..." moment. Craigslist low ballers and people who wanted to hack the car up from what Don had made it.
People who build a car understand it more than the sea of wannabes and flippers out there making a quick buck. . . they don't understand, nor appreciate the term "This car is sorted..." Everybody talks about the quirks of their performance build, but the BIG test is, can you get in the car, turn the key, and head off to the other side of the country/continent and not think about it. Don had a trailer hitch on his car to go pick up his bikes, and tote the trailer he carried his racing tires and stuff in when he went up to Willow Springs.
I got the feeling the PO, as well as Texis300 went through that same process. I know I sorted my Corvair Turbo back in 79/80 and it was a hell of a process. Hobbs switch at 15 psi that light a yellow light, another at 18 psi that lit an orange light, and last one that lit a RED LIGHT at 21psi. WASTEGATE? That was your right foot! You would gauge your throttle foot to bounce or keep illuminated that yellow and orange pair of lights but not get more than the dim flicker out of the red. When I heard of guys putting EFI "From Some Datsun" on the cars, I thought that was neat. When I saw my first Datsun 280ZXT and that turbo with a wastegate I thought "WOW, I wouldn't need the lights, I could just SET the boost at 20 psi and then not worry about detonation! (which started at 22-23psi with the SU setup, and closer to 25-27 with the big four barrel and open dump setup we ran in the winter...)
When I saw that TT setup, I knew my green 71 needed that setup. I wanted something "period" --- not the latest technological gizmos, but something to show people that in the stone ages, we COULD SORT OUT A CAR and it would be reliable.
My living in Japan was a shock. EVERYBODY was running turbos, 300-350hp was the norm on the street. The SK Box initially was run with Mikunis, and later they put red tags over the Jet Covers that said "SK" --- eventually they made their own carbs, but even by 1985 the first Analog Systems were well out in Japan. I've got a full brochure from then showing the Analog Computer Box, and Dual Injector ITB's (big injectors? Naw, you just double them up and if you need more fuel, that's what the AIC and six injectors in the box are for, and the three more in the inlet ducting!) HKS use Mikunis as well. Seems everybody did, simply because it was a Japan Thing... Dellortos with the Turbo Jets and Mods seem to be a FAR better choice (Maserati BiTurbo...a production Blow-Through Multiple Carb Car!---If the Italians can do an OEM Blowthrough Application, so can I!!)
The HKS and SK systems both transformed from Carbs to ITB's by the mid 80's. A vast majority of people ran the Carb Kits because you could buy the stuff piecemeal, but the parts were out there to do ITB's in 85, and by 91 Don Pineda was running a blow through four barrel air door with a Novi Centrifugal Supercharger... And here I come to MSA parked next to him with my Blowthrough Turbo 44 Mikuini 240 Z and away we went talking... The last time I saw Don was at the Bob's Big Boy up in the valley. Outcazst Z would hold meetings there, and Don was a Valley Dude. We got to talking again as I'd driven out in my "Shark Car" and as everybody left we kept on talking. Soon, I looked at my watch and it was 3AM... "Damn Don! I gotta get home!" He looked at his watch, smirked and said "Yeah, traffic should be clear by now." I smiled as well. My last vision of him was of the car I bought off his mom two years ago, peeling off one ramp as I took the other, my BOV making "that noise" and his build winding a bit higher and as he lifted, I saw up inside his pipe a blue flame lazily working its way around inside there as he hit the next gear and got busy...
"I Digress!"
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Looks like I got to figure out how to get my good bumpers to the PI to get SS replicas made at the Jeepney Shop.
With what I spent there this year, Kuya Gabriel owes me a discount on something small.
For what they want in UK for those bumpers, I can get a 20' Jeepney reskinned in Stainless (with a diamond-plate Stainless Floor) and a whole new front grille/bumper arrangement, including buffing to mirror gloss.
Add that much again and I'll get it widened, lengthened, and all new interior as well!
Spent way too much at the Custom Jeepney Shop this year....spent waaaay toooo much!
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And you got me: "BITD"? I'll bite!
Being in SoCal the past 20 Years, it's "Best In The Desert" ... which obviously isn't it...
I'm hoping "Back In The Day" hasn't become acronymized now, too... But I fear, contextually, that this indeed is what it means.
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^^^^Texis300's system is independent tribute to what was said above. This system was a full boat early system, and the PO had flown TT in to help with tuning the system. The build was scrupulous in it's documentation, and from a draw-through perspective very good. I have since sourced the late-model TT Exhaust Manifold and may "update" the system I got from T300 with it. They ate a PRIME example of "know what you want going in and not getting greedy"! Like a Turbo Corvair, if you set it up, and STUCK WITH THE POWER YOU GOT, they were as rock-solid reliable as any other OEM Offering in that era. Continually fiddle, and like anything it could be problematic....turbos got a bad name due to "fiddle fiddle fiddle fingers!"
I will differ on "best carbbed turbo system" though, as the HKS Systems, as well as the SK's that started appearing in Japan in the late 70's were much more refined in terms of instant response, and drivability. They were very well integrated kits, and when the ZXT came out, it was THE way to boost power over the stock EFI. I preferred the Blowthrough to the draw through at 10-15psi. Below that, it really depends on the turbo used and how well the carb on the draw through was jetted. The TT System was TONS better than the Crown which made the Datsun as responsive as a Corvair Corsa 180 with a four barrel modification! (Not necessarily a good thing...) Due to that waste gate, it also was better in terms of controlling detonation.
Each has it's place in my heart. I have a car for each... Though both systems will likely have a TBI Injected setup replace the carb, as will my 66 Turbo Corsa. That simple upgrade will jump the cold drivability of any of these systems forward 20 years, and still retain that vintage look.
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Quit thinking inches, also...
Std overbore is 0.020" (0,5 mm) not 0.030"
After that is 0.040" (1.0mm)
I agree on the comments above, chances are anything you get today won't equal the quality of what you took out. The rings were designed to be the wear component in the engine. Chances are the engine won't need over boring....but the later engine blocks were softer so who's to say. Be advised it's not uncommon to see engines with well over 250,000 miles still not worn out to the high end of new assembly tolerance, much less bore or taper wear limit for service replacement!
My engine went in the car with 225,000 on it, I've put more than 110,000 on it since. Still has 185 across the board as compression goes...and weak oil control rings that eat oil at 1 l per 1,000 - 1,500 miles. So in another 100K of driving, worst case...I buy 100 quarts of extra oil. Hmmmm... $200, or tear it down and spend $3,200+ doing it right?
My only digression comes from using an aftermarket EMS on Turbo Cars. The drivability is better than the ECCS, and Megasquirt is cheap. It lets you do what you want later on, unlike the stock Bosch Licensed box.
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Why on earth put it on the L24?
Leave it bolted to the turbo engine, shorten your driveshaft, and do the normal "auto to manual" swap stuff and never think about the hamster-less wheel that is the L24!
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^^^^^^ it happens to you once... And you NEVER forget!
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I think it's a bit more serious than that - there's a week's worth of posts missing.
It's not just here.... I think the overlords of the interwebs are vindictively toying with things again.
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Ditto on BBC World, DW English, AlJazeera, occasional ABC (Australian Broadcasting Company) and various English Speaking News Broadcasts... But for Cable Stuff available reliably the first three about covers it.
There is extensive browsing online when I have time, but usually it's spent on financial stuff more than current affairs and goings-on.
Millenium Hotels has a great App for iPads that lets you read full e-editions of major newspapers worldwide, and when I'm staying there I use it as well.
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As long as the button is pressed the right way... "lefty loosey"!
And you use a SIX point socket.
But seriously, I have NEVER had to use anything more than a long handled wrench and a tap with a mallet to dislodge the drain plug. And I've taken free some nasty tanks!
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Starve for fuel in a stock 240Z with 1/2 a tank once, and you realize the stock pump pickup is inadequate. If you want to use that pickup point for simplicity, and don't want to redesign the fuel tank, or install a pickup that is exposed on the bottom of the tank so you're forevermore constrained to tarmac-only events or driving only on paved roads (and my drain plug having been close to sheared off more than once attests to that!) then a simple prepump, surge tank, and HP pump is easy. OEM's do it...see "Ford Bronco".
I drive on dirt roads, regularly, and sometimes the road isn't nice. Putting a pickup in the drain plug on my 260? That's a recipe for being stranded somewhere a ways from anything, nearby nothing! Curiously, the Kenya East African Safari Cars used a simple Surge Tank and three pumps for feeding the Carbs (triples), they did not take a tap from the bottom of the tank.
I'd pass on that unless it's a strict Drag Car.
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" I have a turbo car has a p90a head non adjustable."
I am assuming this statement is derived from pulling the valve cover to check the valves already and finding out you indeed do have a later model 83ZXT with Hydraulic Lash Adjusters, and not the more common P90A Mechanical Head which is more common than most people think?
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They are, it's a dealer-added accessory to prevent the Bendix Internal Filter from getting clogged and needing replacement.
The big WIX would go forever filtering before ever showing any pressure drop, and the Bendix Pump would never clog, requiring that expensive filter.
If the WIX did need replacement, you got it anywhere for like $3 and you were good for another....uh.... how many miles are on the car now without it clogging to cause a problem? 200,000+?
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Buy a Late-Model Honda, and be done with it.
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That must have overheated bigtime for that gear to drop like that! I can't remember the thrust direction but I thought it was 'up' it appears to be 'down' and that was what moved the gear, allowing axial movement towards distributor end and disengagement of the oil pump drive tang.
Should have been evident upon installation...but without a dizzy up there to reference...hard to say.
JeffP put a hardened 3mm pin in his gear when it spun. Staked the pin after installation. Too pin and after chilling it in dry ice / alcohol bath, and heating the oil pump drive spindle in hot oil bath it was tapped in with an interference fit, it was not slip-in for sure.
Likely that's overkill, and a simple double roll pin will be more than enough.
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REad the electrical section of the EF section of the FSM, it details the settings of the multimeter and where to put the probes and everything.
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Most pumps don't work well in suction service, so they default to a flooded inlet. There should be plenty of room for a carter or bendix style plunger pump under the car (there was for mine, and the surge tank)....
Some people move the surge tank and flooded high pressure pump up front to the engine bay if you think room is a problem.
I've always used plunger/solenoid pumps to prime the surge tank, they allow some lift, reliably --- the stock EFI pump won't work if you put it up front, even with a full tank flooding the inlet, sucking all that way it will fail to supply enough fuel for even an 80RWHP setup! Put it in that stock position in the same car, and it's flowing enough for 300 RWHP+.
The stock 240 tank has issues with the pickup getting uncovered at anything less than 1/4 tank (and can uncover at 1/2 tank under proper conditions!) One 'go lean' under boost on an EFI system where it just drops suddenly...and you understand what the Surge Tank does for you.
I would NOT put fuel pumps in the tire well unless you made a proper firewall. There is plenty of room to put stuff under the car, on the stock mounting points for the electric pump, and on the floor like a 280Z (there is two pumps, in back, using stock locations.... the Surge Tank can be mounted near the plunger/solenoid pump...)
I'd start putting components up front before I ever put them inside the car. The Bronco Surge Tank can mount with a stock Bendix Style pump on the stock electric pump mount, feeding the EFI pump up under the bin like on a 75 280Z.... if nothing else, there is your fuel system, safe, external, and non-immolating!
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My old ExMarine Gym Teacher (1MAR, ret) in elementary school used to say "GET A MOVE ON OR I'LL KICK YOUR ASS SO HARD I'LL BRUISE YOUR PANCREAS!"
I believe, after seeing him launch Frankie Meyers towards the Dodgeball Line one day, he not only bruised Frankie's Pancreas, but his lungs, Kidneys, and Anal Sphincter. I swear I saw the toe ENTER Frankie....
Anybody not going to school in the 50/60/70's won't understand ex-Marine Island Hoppers and Korean War Survivors that decided the GI Bill was a good way to get that degree in PE, play a little ball in College, and get that De-Gree in Physical Education. Red Foreman? That was my Pop Warner Coach, along with another guy named "Boomer" D'Amos.... you figure that one out...
Travelling to California-San Fran area
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Discount Holistic Proctology is practiced there at zero to no cost to the patient.