Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Please consider the components and MTBF in the real world. Carburettor failure? Really?
How many GM HEI modules have I stored in glove boxes because they fail?
That's maintenance preparation. If you prepare properly, you don't get bitten. If you do, it's such a catastrophic failure, nothing you could have forseen would have saved you in ANY eventuality.
I understand the theory being put forth, I'm here to say it's faulty as a basis for making the decision. You know what you will need as reasonable spares, and you provision accordingly. Blow a crankshaft or set of pistons, you are walking anyway.
Blow a rod and you're back asking this same question again...
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If you buy a 260, you will get a lot more!
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Don't you raid government bench stock at the AGE Shop there in Tyndall?.....
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What's an E1 make these days? I remember when it was $647.47...
That question thing I can attribute to TSgt Cox at FTD 911, Kadena AB Japan.
There were guys who absolutely hated him as well because of that method of answering questions in the FTD Class.
Oh, how I miss those classes, it was always fun to be one of "the initiated" who knew "there will always be one" and we would find it out on the first day of class when TSgt Cox would start the electrical portion of the training, "tracing circuits" and he would reach for a marker and say "So we start with the Battery Circuit, and for that I'll use Green..."
Someone invariably would say "But the Battery Circuit is Red." He would look at the initiated in the class with the look of "We have 'the one' in this class identified!" and say: Why?
"Because the Battery Circuit is RED!"
We would all look at each other...sniggering and nod "Yep, this guy will be the one..." and would sit back as TSgt Cox would get irrefutable logic of "BECAUSE" as to why the battery circuit would be red.
I digress...
As for a silver plug, galvanized steel will do, and a Stainless Plug you might find a bit pricey. I have found internally - wrenched (big hex) Brass Plugs that go in close to flush. Painting the whole manifold will make whatever you choose a moot point.... it's all the same when a coat of paint is on it!
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^^^^ This goes to the old saying "what you tear apart and reassemble with new parts likely isn't as good as what you took apart in the first place unless you spend a LOT of money!"
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I've had stock, nissan-assembled engines with pistons 0.22" above the deck. They had run 100K+ miles at that point and my daily driver has pistons 0.022l above the deck as well. This was with E, N, and P prefix cylinder heads, never an issue. All heads run with fel-pro gaskets, or Ishino gaskets.
EXACTLY! They are NOT 'zero deck height' engines, 0.020" range is not anything to be concerned about...and changing gaskets without an actual PHYSICAL CLEARANCE CHECK is foolish.
Assemble the engine, determine what you need, DO NOT GUESS!
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The E88 and P90 headshave totally different shaped combustion chambers.
In an E88 the piston can stick above the deck (and probably the gasket) with no ill effects; on the P90 this can't happen.
You COMPLETELY missed the point. Please Read Leon's Response, it is the correct thing to take away from what was written.
And the "which E88" comes into that discussion as well... it's moot, the head is irrelevant.
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The signal comes off the (-) terminal on the coil, and yes, it's controlled by the Ignition Module (it really doesn't control anything, it's a switching box that has a fixed dwell feature..."ICM" is not "Datsunspeak"...)
If you have a tach freaking out intermittently, and it's good, then.....your input circuitry is giving a bad signal source to it.
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Looks like you're pulling a turbo, and likely asking to buy a 0.63 A/R housing from somewhere...
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Oh, rebuilt 5K ago as well? good info to know.
"In traffic i noticed the tach needle started jumping around a few times."
Hint: What drives the tachometer (assuming it's good and not failing)? What component gives the tachometer its input to twist the needle? And what component triggers it? And what component triggers it?
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There was a server crash and we lost a week of data recently...
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Absolute or Gauge.
The reason I mention it is because most engines will idle between 35-50 kPa(A) while the relief valve is set to go at 43-51 kPa(G).... which is actually 143-151 kPa(A).
A Brass Plug will shine up nicely. NPT worked for me, with a sealant (Loctite 567) and turned in 1/4 turn past finger tight and let the sealant set up for an hour or two. That lets you take it back out with a propane torch and a reasonable sized crescent wrench later on... If you got 1/2 turn it's in there, and you will need to heat it, and use an 18" wrench to get it out later...while it's clamped in a vise!
Loctite 567 in miracle sealant.
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Why does everybody here have so many problems with parts breaking.
If this is the case, spend less on swaps, and more on attention to the basic maintenance needs of your vehicle. Breakdowns rarely 'just happen' they are caused by neglect.
Either is your choice to make. Whichever you choose, if you maintain it properly breakdowns will never be a real issue in your decision-making process.
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Is that kPaA or kPaG?
Keep in mind the stock map stops at 10psi(g)...
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You don't have a sales invoice that gives the specs of THAT turbo, and not a general cut-sheet of the whole range?
The turbo supplier should have been able to tell you what they sold you.
How can you apply a turbo if you don't know what specifications it has? Big Mistake.
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A low spot on the rocker is from 200,000 miles of running in the same spot.
The Rocker should be 5 RC Softer than the Cam, therefore wearing out instead of the cam. Of course, absence of lubricant, improper lubricant or starving of lubricant will cause accelerated wear.
I've seen guys who swear by no cam assembly lube and just dump a quart of oil on the top end before fire-up. Of course, they also developed a 'groove' much like you mention in a relatively short period of time (nowhere near 200,000 miles!)
If you look, there are cammed Datsun engines assembled in the late 70's out there with 100,000's of miles on them and no cam issues. I know of at least one where the car broke in half at 245,000 miles, and the owner figures that the vast majority of them were Auto-X miles as he rarely drove it more than 10-miles to the AutoX each weekend for the life of the car, and rarely to work or tours (had another Z for that...) That cam and head had over 100,000 miles on it and looked like new...and it was hard miles.
The standard isn't what looks good after 10,000 miles, it's what looks new after 100,000.
At least, that was the standard. Maybe things are devolving...
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Nice to add more information. The FSM is your friend on basic maintenance issues.
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I had 2mm pop out with my pistons (0.080") no ill effects. These are not zero-deck-height engines in all applications. Clearance to the head is what matters, with those 2mm pops and using a standard fel-pro gasket clay check of the dome to CC showed 0.040"+ clearance on the E88 head I used.
The ONLY way to know absolutely for sure is to assemble it with a used head gasket and clay the domes.
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Fuel Filter.
FYI, you won't get acceleration on a stock L28 much above 5,000 owing to the fact peak power is at 5,300 rpms.
I am guessing "ICM" is "Ignition Control Module"?
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You plug the emergency relief valve in the intake manifold?
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Which AR Turbine Housing do you have? 1.06? Try the 0.63... Most people get carried away and use the AR that is way too big, JeffP can get 17psi at 3,200 on his GT35R.... But he's not running a 1.06 AR Housing, he was loath that he couldn't stay with the 0.63 and ended up using the 0.82.
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Fix your problem first, then worry about the fuel rail and other moneywasters.
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The old method was to use...
steady yourself....
VW Beetle Fenders.
When you look at it, they are the right shape, cheap to buy new (Taiwan Production) and easily trimmed to fit just about anything under the sun if you want BIG flares.
The Porsche 930 also has reasonably priced FRP aftermarket units available that make good examples, but they are not a 'bubble' flare like the IMSA or whatnot.
Pistons protrude from block - thicker gasket?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Give my your data on compressibility repetition of various gaskets, and try that angle.
They say to use a previously compressed gasket as it's a known quantity. If you change to a different gasket, the 'thickness' uncompressed is what compressed again? Nobody knows.
The only way to KNOW thickness is to do a physical CHECK.
This is a problem with engineers, they calculate. They recalculate. They BUILD it and wonder where that knocking sound comes from...
This is one of those things where you measure to PROJECT your needs, but ASSEMBLY and CLAY CHECK is the ONLY way to KNOW what you have.
If you do this for valves in a dynamic state the results are similar. Same for the piston to head clearance... the way to know is to physically measure.
Anything else is just a guess.