Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Yes Alan, was that piece sourced from Car Shop Jalopy? It looks very similar to what he had on the Red G-Nosed car when I visited his shop two years or more ago now...
Since seeing the quality of the parts (and only having seen catalog representations in the past!) made me "WANT".... Supposedly a sin...
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PervCentral...LOL
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Fully Understand... The documentation made that clear from the start as well.
We're all hamstringed by lack of personal Transport Pods to zap parts transcontinentally (or Trans-Hemispherically in my case!)
So, we do with what we have. From the MSA Type3 results, it becomes clear the reproduction G-Noses are more "cosmetics" than the Originals Nissan made. Good luck finding a complete one to test...
Highpoints of that test was MSA altered their air dam based on the testing completed. Bravo!
If only the One-Piece G-Nose replicators would follow suit for better effect to the Z-Community.
I'm not complaining by a LONGSHOT---the data gleaned only whetted my appetite to be sure!
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I don't think the Arita Speed S130 G-Nose is anything more than cosmetics appealing to nostalgia.
The original testing here revealed the G-Nose to "not be all that" but it was based on a replica. The MSA Typ3 was found more beneficial as I recall (after modifications that made the radiator ducting similar to a real Nissan G-Nose.)
It was at that point I grew curious.... Since making small cardboard extensions to the trays directing airflow made such an efficiency difference on the MSA, what would the similar differences be for the aftermarket G-Nose (compared to a properly replicated or original unit), and consequently with the blunt-nose under tray which Nissan cited as critical in their Aero Testing of the S30 in development of the S130.
The only S130 Aero Mods I know of from Nissan is the front Air Dam from JDM/Euro Turbo models, which was combined with a very trick plastic duct that sealed the inlet to the radiator directly...much like the ducting used on earlier S30's to prevent leakage around the radiator (and would accomplish that dual purpose mentioned earlier of preventing air under the hood from an unsealed hood to front upper radiator support--all air in the front of the car is channeled through the radiator.)
From that duct, it looks that they tried to make it a semi-bottom-breather taking anything below the bumper either through the radiator or around the front...and anything above the bumper over the top (which seems to be validated by the downforce attained from installation of the G-Nose to the S30)
Recall I'm saying a class exists that would allow it. And we did try it. But there is no way to quantify wether plugging up the front of the car is what gave our increased top speed...or the belly pan. I would tend to think Matts comment that it may well not have contributed could be warranted. We plugged the front end up, and in that same configuration but without the belly pan...speeds were similar if not higher.
This is why the curiosity exists on the S30 G-Nose and Undercover. It is a legal production part, so if placing it on the car foes affect Cd, it may be more productive to run it only, as opposed to the "grailistic, mythical flat-bottomed magic silver bullet"
I only wish I'd been successful in obtaining one this year to be able to make it available for testing.
Since the S30 is being sold...and I have S130's with better aero out of the box compared to S30 terminal development...we likely will press forward on them with S30 stuff remaining an idle curiosity channel which I will gladly help fund to satiate said idle curiosity.
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Ms. Vaughn wasn't present...so I figured it was a typo...
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Just as an aside, that race-taxi has about 205 more HP than my 62 did, but it's 1500kg, and my bus was only 2315# plus my 175 (ahem, "at the time")!
Try that with worn center post bushing ... Suddenly 15:30@89.990 mph never sounded so death defying!
I should have been able to pull 12's with that engine...but snapping axles, and jacking stink bug actions with 5.60-15 tires really limited it... Though a crowd pleaser was busing the wheels loose into JC Penny $19 each Bias-Ply Retread Boiling Rolling Burnouts at the top of second gear about 30 mph through 3rd when the boost came on.
As I aged, I found a 175hp Turbo 2-Liter was a nice ride and ran slightly faster in the 1/4...
Now this shows up....
You BAStard!
Well, there is the '66 I guess!
Or...hey, what you think I can get out of 657ccs of turbocharged Suzuki Fury?
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Hahaha.... I considered it, but "Lemon Squeezing" was just too classic to pass up!
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Curbs don't make me poop...
How I wish they did...
Oh, the agony! How I wish they did!
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Hearse?
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Seems like it could be a nice simple easy to make option. Who knows.
On the Kindig It people - I see a reality car show in the future: http://www.kindigit.com/about-us.php
They already got two LDS-Themed Reality Shows out there...I guess the world is big enough for one more. I can watch in Asia on Discovery Turbo, AKA "DMAX" now...
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I'm 50, and I reiterate the question I posted earlier: Is there any plans of testing the original Nissan G-Nose undertray? Burton Brown and I have been conspiring to try and get one out of Japan this entire past year. Given the 280ZX aero testing, this tray was part of the G-Nose Package that decreased the original S30 Cd down to the 0.38 range.
It's a fitted FRP Piece, which has been faithfully reproduced from an original G-Nose Piece and is sold for around $400 in-country. One trip to Japan back to LA with Business Class Luggage Allowance would get several back in-country for replication and testing.
I'm always up for assisting furtherance of knowledge, and would love to supply the part (or donate $$$ again) to see what it does. Actually, having a working aerodynamicist at the site may be of assistance, can I get a partner to split that stated fee? I don't know if it would be better than the tunnel operators comments--but in understanding what the air was actually doing (as Matt wants to understand) it may prove very valuable. It just depends on who is that curious. Who else spend $184 on "Turbocharging the Internal Combustion Engine" back in 1984? LOL
As for 'flat bottom' there is a class in LSR that could use it---if it were beneficial. We used one, it may have helped...hard to say as it's combined with front-end blockoffs to make 'the class'.... Doing it on it's own, and then piece by piece adding the parts up front may indeed reveal that it was the combination of blocking air inlets up front that gave the speed increase, rather than a smooth bottom.
The concentration for me and Burton is to quantify the advantage of using that G-Nose part (undertray to mid-transmission) as it would be allowed in GT and PRO classes as a stock piece. NOBODY to my knowledge has EVER used one here in the USA. It was in the parts books of the day, but never made it over into the motorsports catalogs as it appears people were more interested in the 'cosmetics' than in the function of the total package that was the G-Nose (as proved out by testing in the first series of tests with the One-Piece G-Nose!
Old White Guys arguing over 160+ mph Z-Cars. Somewhere, on some Honda Forum....we are excoriated as being the Devil because of how fast we actually go, and how we argue over actual applications, and not theoretical flights of fancy...
All this being said, Andy Flagg is selling the Bonneville G-Nosed Z. There's a rolling adjustable height car for you, albiet on the wrong coast. With the departure of that vehicle from the immediate stable, concentration will be on the S130's I have stashed for LSR...which start at 0.38 Cd...about where ultimate development by Nissan stopped with the S30. After that, like Matt stated, "How the air is moving over the car" starts becoming your focus for incremental gains which are not allowed in the LSR classes but are on Road Racers.
As always, let me know what I can do to assist or where to send the $$$ if necessary.
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I am always encouraged at the cost of "Condition 7" cars.... It seems cheap, but when you got 30 of them laying around you start going "well, I could restore these in my retirement, or buy one hell of a nice cottage on the lake and lay in a BIG stock of Rum..."
An inebriated retirement, or one spend wrenching.... decisions decisions...
And yes, Orange Paint, Blue Interior. First Shipment. Factory Resprays in a Port Facility to have a snowball's chance in hell of selling them in the USA.
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BTW, the video above was done in the Long Beach Facility we ship out of all the time.
When we have multiples (four or more vehicles) we consider buying the whole container and we pack it ourself. The price is cheaper, and we can throw in all sorts of spares and crap that otherwise is just plain IMPOSSIBLE to get from one continent to another inexpensively. I swear, we have shipped BBQ's with the cars, Bikes, Above Ground Pools, just all sorts of crap that struck a fancy and someone remembered "hey, it's a container!"
From LA it's around $1100 per vehicle Rollon Rolloff. Slightly more if they have to push it or make provisions to roll it. If you ship four cars, they give you a price break for 'full container load' but it's still around $1000 when you can load it yourself for around $3,500 for a full 40' HC container and are not constrained to only four vehicles and what you can stuff inside them. Nice when you ship half-cuts, engines, spares...etc.
Stuff like Blazers, Duallys, 63 El Caminos are more simply because you just can't get four in a container. Incrementally more...
Takes about a month to do the shipping LA to Rotterdam. From the East Coast it can be as little as two weeks. We have had things shipped on the first of the month and arrived before month's end in Europe. If you time your dropoff right, or do a full container and they pickup to go directly to the port on a ship that leaves that day...
Places like LA, Port Huneme, San Diego, SanFrancisco/Oakland, Sacramento (river big enough for ocean port inland), Portland, Seattle/Tacoma, Vancouver, Bayonne, NY, Houston, New Orleans -- maybe some stuff up the Mississippi like St. Louis, and the like will be the cheapest shipping points since you can drop locally at the port facility for local loading. If you have to go overland it will raise the costs.
I'm not too familiar with Florida, but have to assume Orlando or wherever cruise ships leave from regularly are big enough to have commercial cargo, and there you can ship cheap. Maybe considerably cheaper than West Coast as there will be no Panama Canal Fee tacked on to the shipping costs. Last I checked it could be $300 less from East Coast compared to West Coast. Not really your concern, but the buyer might appreciate it.
While CFR appears to be LA Based, they have brokered arrangements for worldwide shipping. It does not need to go from their LA Facility. We were put onto them by someone in Europe who was shipping cars into Africa and worldwide for competition. There are actually a number of 'names' they go by, depending on where the shipping is originating/ending.
http://www.cfrrinkens.com/car-bike-shipping
Contact information is above in the link...pop around their website, they do all sorts of shipping. Bikes or a crate that would fit a bike is around $500. Think about that next time you get a trucking quote for an engine and think $300 is a good deal! LOL I'm almost to the point of shipping 'big things' to my place in the Philippines...
Good Luck with your sale.
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CFR Rinkens is your shipper. Hands-Down they have the best shipping arrangements in the industry for transporting vehicles for both private and commercial sales. FAR better than the old boards and straps setups most people (and for that matter private individuals) use, or have used in the past.
They can arrange for payment bonding in-country to accept the funds and transfer to you, or as you say 'wire transfer' after CFR has accepted it into bonded export storage.
The biggest thing with absentee sales is giving up title to your vehicle before confirmed payment, and making a payment to someone without knowing the vehicle is in your possession.
The CFR Rinkens agency in Los Angeles/Long Beach actually has employees who will act as escrow agents (on their own, basically a broker fee is charged) so they make some $$$ on the deal by getting the payment and accepting the vehicle for shipment and then releasing as proper. In some cases they will go look at cars for overseas buyers. For many people paranoid about selling overseas, this guy showing up on their doorstep is in essence the guy who's buying the car---they may never know it's going overseas and therefore don't gouge on pricing, or become flaky from some xenophobic streak.
I'd suggest you contact them and see if they can broker the deal for you if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself. Otherwise, send plenty of photos to the buyer, and tell him you will drive it to CFR's closest shipping/pickup point and release it to their interest upon confirmed arrival of payment.
Direct wire transfer bank-to-bank. This is now tracked by the federal government, declare it on your state and federal taxes. Getting money bank-to-bank transferred individual to individual is a PITA these days. Thanks Overlords in Washington. You can try a Western Union Pick Up in Cash transfer...do you have a carry permit? And when you deposit that money to your bank, if it's over XXXX in a single deposit...the Feds will come snooping wondering where it came from. You could be a terrorist, you know. Likely any way you do it, you will get on some sort of list. This isn't being a smartass, this is just the way it is these days. Having a bill of sale and the shipping paperwork should anybody come asking questions will help soothe fears that you are some sort of rogue operative cel of AlZed Martyr's Brigade intent on killing as many Z-Cars as you can on a track....
One of the things CFR will do is all that photographic documentation and customs clearance. Go to their Facebook site and you can see what they ship out of Long Beach regularly. The new rack system really is trick, as you can see in the video above. We have not had anything go wrong in countless individual vehicle shipments with them. We had issues due to our own inexperience packing things when shipping full containers...but when you ship 7 1/2 Z-Cars in a STANDARD 40' container...well things are close and unless you lock them down HARD, they will move somewhat. After learning that movement/rubbing lesson, even we didn't have issues. In fact, in Europe the receiving company laughed at how stoutly we packed the items. Apparently 4X6" Timbers is considered 'overkill' as they use 2x4's at the heaviest!
I digress....
CFR Rinkens should be able to handle your shipping and customs clearance.
Wire Transfer which is confirmed is best--get your money BEFORE releasing title to the vehicle. If your bank will allow it, open a DEDICATED account to accept the money. As SOON as it's in there, sweep it to your normal account. Once that is done--release the title to CFR.
The process would be like this: Agree on price and payment. He transfers the money (it can take 4-5 days in some cases), you bring the car to a CFR location for a confirmed ship date late in the month. The buyer should have communicated all his information to them, as have you. YOU RETAIN THE TITLE and let CFR know that---don't load the vehicle until title is in CFR's hand. This should NOT be a problem as long as the shipment doesn't leave within the next two weeks.
Once you have gotten your money (CFR can confirm to the buyer they have received the vehicle for shipping, they DO NOT need to tell them they have the title.) then you can give the title to CFR, and that will allow them to pack it in a container for shipment. They can clear customs, but CFR WILL NOT SHIP without a title.
This allows the buyer to see the car is ready to ship before he releases his money.
This allows you to get your money before totally releasing the vehicle. If something goes awry for the payment, you still have the title, CFR will not ship the vehicle (it can not clear customs without it) and at most you will only be out some storage and documentation processing fees.
I don't release the vehicle until monies are in my hand and I have confirmed it. Many wire transfers have a callback or cancellation provision, so by sweeping the money from your account immediately 'locks' it into your hands. The callback or cancellation can only remove an ACH deposit from the account it was originally put into, not any subsequently transferred accounts.
Really, this is all insurance. Once you get the money and transfer it into another account, you're done. Release the vehicle. I deal with CFR as I know they won't ship without the title, and they WILL accept a vehicle into their yard without it. We have done this several times because we were waiting for a title from the State that was in the buyers name (we initiated a transfer for transport out of state in CA for the buyer so when it arrived in their country, they already had title in their name making registration there easier. In these cases, they have already paid us for the car, and for the registration transfer so really it was just dotting an "I" dropping it off) In fact, I'm sure CFR would hold in storage until your verbal release even with the title in their possession....ask them.
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How many cars that can potentially run 200 mph out of the box weigh considerably less than 4500#?
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Not all blue Z's had a blue interior. White and black were available. Look under the rugs/spare tire well etc to find some original body color if you're worried about it having been repainted.
The price is a steal. Other than checking for great quantities of hiding rust under a non-original paint job, or the mileagle being faked, go, buy it now. right now. quick.
I will second this. . . I don't know where this information is coming from, but most Blue Z's I've seen have the WHITE interior. I don't ever recall a blue/blue car...maybe... I just never saw one. Orange with Blue, absolutely hideous but stock 100%!
I love people claiming 5 digit mileages who are too stupid to change the rubber pedal covers. Call him on documentation for the mileage, then pay a bunch of money. They aren't making them any more, and early cars are selling for five digits as unmolested originals, or decent resprays with mechanical/cosmetic freshening.
The 'aftermarket rocker covers' are dealer option tack ons we all have to suffer removing and filling of the holes.It's period correct and for an early car pulling it off makes for holes you have to explain.
The seats have cheap covers, as does the center console. It's got a hand throttle...but being stuck on the 'American Psycho' Pseudonym of "Series 1" which means absolutely nothing anywhere but in America...who knows what it is...
It's not "as represented" from what is shown. The price? For a car that doesn't shift right? That has lights out? No... not $10K. But somewhere around there as none of it is a big deal to repair. It's top dollar for what it is, I would not go to that point unless the lights and shifting was corrected. Then maybe $10K... Not 12.5 with cheap seat covers and obviously recad plated underhood items trying to make it look like its original unmolested. Which is what they're trying to do here. Poor Form.
To paraphrase as some comedian once said: "What's it feel like to WAN(NNA)T?"
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Yes, "never built until now". But I recall some customs in the 70's used for photo shoots.
And the following of the Jensen lines rather than the earlier examples sketched by the Z-Design team is somewhat sad. I preferred the Datsun examples which were not so "Jensen Copy Like"...
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That 260Z is in excellent shape, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy it. If you're concerned about something as minor as a diff leak, and what it costs to fix them, I'm wondering if a Z is the right car for you at all.
Do you have any experience working on cars?
That was stated elsewhere. This is the EXACT same post, verbatim, that was posted elsewhere... I wonder how many other affirmations he will need before making up his own mind? Nothing like cross-posting every forum on the web with the exact same question. You don't get differing opinions, you just annoy people.
Cut and Paste is great sometimes. Other times, it just makes you wish you could break someone's fingers.
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I use Freeze 12 in my GM Dually (like 7# system! LOL) and in all the old R12 Z's I have.
I have been very happy with it's performance. It's easily available on eBay. I will never be snowed into converting another car to R134 ever again!
I don't put much stock in 'environmentally friendly' marketing, I don't think there was anything wrong with R12. Most of the world now seems to agree as they are letting it be sold same as it ever was.
Really, the compressors are so oversized on older cars it's not funny. The only 'designing' they did was the oil for compatibility with the refrigerant. If you have a virgin compressor, it's generally universally compatible. The LUBRICANTS used in the two systems affect the seals differently. Get a new compressor and it will have the seals made for the newer refrigerants which will not be affected by the old mineral based or PAO/DIESTER lubricants used in R12 systems.
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Seriously, if John Morton could take National SCCA Titles using only upgraded Pads, Fluids, and the stock system.....
REALLY how much is your occasional track day poseur going to tax that same system?
This is a marketing perception, rather than an engineering reality.
The "shortfalls" of the stock system universally are due to people improperly maintaining the vehicle, and not due to an engineered shortfall or deficient braking system.
They are engineered to stop a vehicle TWICE the weight of what you have. That means MARGIN. If you are having problems of excessive pedal travel, 'brake fade' or etc....
Consider looking in the mirror at the maintenance you have not been properly performing, rather than blaming a system that will haul the car down from 120mph four or five times in rapid succession and STILL LOCK 245's.
If your stock system does not do that---you aren't maintaining it properly. Period.
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Nope.
Nope.
Wow, and I'm cursed for being verbose.
Someone didn't get enough "PE" in elementary school I see!
LOL
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This was answered at the other forum where you posted it.
It's a 40 year-old-rust free Z.
That tops all. None of the other items you list are 'issues'.
Buy it.
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Many advocate for a stock cam swap, IMO it's a huge effort for nothing.
For the same effort, an aftermarket cam is much more worthy of the effort. It really depends on which head you have.
From knowing the flow of the individual heads, you can set your lift, duration, and lobe centers to maximise breathing below 7,000 and wake up an otherwise sluggish engine.
Giving something with the .460-.470" lift (max on stock springs as referenced in the various camshaft threads in the archives) will keep costs down, and then the opening and closing events can be tweaked for more power up top.
There is absolutely no reason your L28 has to be that short-shifted slug that the stock cam mandates. A mild aftermarket camshaft will give you about another 1,500 useable RPMS of power and still come on strong at 3.500 rpms like the old L24 cams did. Pull hard from 3,500 to 6,500 with shift point in the 6,800 to 7,000 range. Very fun engine when set up like that. There are a lot of cams out there that fit this description...you just have to mill through the chaff and see who is happy with theirs, and hopefully they have dyno graphs to back up their butt-dyno impressions.
Isky has a good selection of cams like that. But really, changing the springs and lash pads even on a stock head will allow more lift and that means more breathing at the top end.
I'd put a 460/470 lift cam in a car I was selling to a kid. I'd put a 500-525" lift cam in a car I was keeping for myself! LOL
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There is a point where cracking a book to understand the function of the components you are installing becomes mandatory.
This is one of those times.
Once you know what "L" and "S" stand for...you will realize what your question is really asking.
Shoulda stopped before only seeds remained.
Looking for a few good candidates (And their money)
in Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
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The frame grabs are really priceless ammunition for those claiming S30 development occurred in a vacuum, without any wind tunnel testing... Those scale models say clearly otherwise...in fact making an argument for rather advanced development!
The argument "they did it all" may come into some aspects of the discussion, but "quantified and easily available results for everybody" is the counterpoint...
And as always, that would be my major secondary goal after personal curiosity satiation... LOL