RS Speed

Yes stock gate with no controller will get you 5 psi

I would think it would raise boost from the wastegate setting of 5 to about 7 when the car gets into operating temp. Cant really see how a device on the wastegate line could actually LOWER past what the wastegate is set for. Either way I would ditch it and run a boost controller lol

yes the sizes are the same as the rb25. Its safe to say A LOT of people run these rads with no problems on rbz's. On my personal car I haven't turned my electric fans on in like 6 months because it runs so cool

Its actually a turbonetics 60-1 but they are all about the same thing. It came with a standard 5 bolt flange for an external wastegate but I bought a 5 bolt internal wastegate assembly so I can run it internaly. There's a guy on ebay that sells the internal wastegates for dirt cheap although I cant seem to find him anymore Here a few links to the basic part though... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Garrett-T3-Internal-Wastegate-Swing-Valve-5-3-bolt-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5880aef542QQitemZ380116071746QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Garrett-Turbo-T3-Wastegate-swingvalve-w-Steel-flange-/330437466209?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cef9b9861 NOT sure if this one will fit but its real cheap http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4-TURBO-5-BOLT-SWINGVALVE-WASTEGATE-EXHUAST-HOUSING-/380241901991?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58882ef9a7

on a side note, any reason why you are only pulling 15 at idle... should be 18-21 on average.

I basically ended up running relays with direct power from the battery for the major components like ecu, fuel pump, ignition and fans. Powering the ecu through the harness was causing odd issues like hearing the rpm change with the turn signals being activated so I just rewired some things through my switch panel

what source are you using to give B+ to the thick white wire which powers your coilpacks? Reason I ask is because I was originally powering my coils through the Z harness and it wasn't supplying enough power so it would miss over 12 psi. I ended up running a relay to power the coils and it never missed again. , I usually run a .026 gap but .03 should be fine

Possible your ignition was cutting out at higher boost and not the valve leaking, I would look into that. Also our valve is the same as the 1G DSM valve, they work nicely from 5-15 psi for what its worth.

Technically a MASS air flow sensor measures air MASS instead of VOLUME like a karman vortex (DSM) sensor does. This is why they work without a IAT sensor since the mass airflow accounts for the density of the air as it cools the hotwire. On the other hand a door type meter (older porsches, toyota, etc) only measures flow and uses IAT and sometimes pressure to determine the density of the charge. to the OP: Is you tps set right?

Don't like the slowness myself but I've personally been busier than usual.... I do try to answer all pm's and help as much as I can though. It was more lively before, hopefully things pickup again

Holds roughly 15 psi in stock form before they start to crack open, its designed to leak at idle so you have to recirculate it to run properly. Crushed "slightly" it should hold around 20 psi and not cause any surge. Its a decent recirc valve actually, probably a better option then a open greddy type-s or something.

Looks meticulously clean... I love it!

Looking good man, the engine bay is starting to come around

Thanks guys I appreciate the comments, hopefully next year I'll get the bodywork finished up and get on the front cover

They might not have it yet... it's a blue civic hatch with the motor showing through the hood on the front cover.

MAY 11th is the day the modified mag comes out with my car in it, its the June edition, PICK ONE UP! haha Front cover happens to be a friend of mine's civic. Its a blue civic hatchback with 750whp so that's cool too

I usually stick with recirculated and a draw through system but its just a preference, I'm not a big BOV noise kinda guy. That being said I ran around with no recirc on my sr20 s14 for about 4 years and its not that bad, mine personally never stalled, just raised the idle to 900-1k. There is a definite rich mix and slight delay in throttle response after shifts though. If you decide to go blow through I would place it on the cold side of the piping so it can better meter the temp and density of the charge entering your motor. best bet would be as far as t-body as you can before the bend to your intercooler... not really alot of space for piping in these Z's lol.

throw on a hose clamp and tighten her up, it's not gonna leak.

Mine is untouched just like J's and I will be running methanol injection very soon. However I'm actually not the one cranking up my boost just yet. I built my friends S14 along side mine and hes ready for some more power. Identical build to mine except for a built motor so it should be fine (MLS gasket, rods, pistons, bearings, pumps, methanol, etc...)

heat range 8 seems to be the norm around these power levels... post up those part numbers when you guys get a chance, I'm gonna stock up and try different plugs

Not at all, i actually have brackets mounted to the bottom of the frame rail which hold it right above the frame rail(almost level).

Anyone have any good recommendations or experiences with spark plugs that will suit a rb25det running ~23psi on a t3/60-1

I made my own intercooler piping, the core I got for free from a buddy of mine... most likely an ebay intercooler. To be honest its about 2" too wide, took a lot of work to get the piping through the radiator support. Also if it was shorter I could have mounted the tanks up top so the piping would be shorter but I've grown a liking to the ramhorn look

you should see the underside.... connects the bottom of the rad to the steering rack/crossmember also the whole radiator is sealed against the radiator support with weatherstripping, I haven't turned on my electric fans in 4 months lol