RS Speed

Do 85 maxima rear calipers take the same pads as 240sx rear calipers... I went through hawks application guide and came up with this part number for rear ht-10 pads: HB262S.540 When searching for the part number on google it brings up 240sx pads and I went back and checked on hawks website and it lists the two under the same part number. BUT when I looked for axxis ULT (what im running in the front toyota calipers) they list no application for the maxima but they do list one for the 240sx.... is it probably a small difference like a wear sensor or did they not do enough R&D to see what it fits on. Most likely they should work if I get the axxis for a 240sx in my maxima caliper right? Also does anyone have any experiance with Hawk HT-10 pads... im considering those over the axxis ULTs for my next pad, thinking of starting with the rear.

I hope my axxis ultras hold up on the next track event. My friend had good results on his s14 and im hoping the 4x4 calipers and ultras cut it... if not im going the wilwood route

hey my Z is a 10/70 production date HLS30-11xxx, I wish i was under the 10k mark

Good to know I'm not the only one. I'm currently running some weak pads, whatever came loaded in the caliper, so I'm hoping I could see some improvement with a decent pad in the rear. Thanks for the input.

Sorry I couldn't have been more help, must be a weird 200zr thing or is it possible your ecu is a bit screwy. Most nissan's I have worked on in the states use a ground from the ecu to activate the fuel pump relay which in turn powers the pump... good luck man. On a side note, the priming really isnt all that important, if you can manage to wire it somehow that the pumps shuts off when the motor turns off you should be fine. This would save you incase of an accident which I would say is the most important part. Other than that I've seen lots of people run it direct off ignition which poses the danger of a fire in case of a fuel spill/accident but we all hope for the best and assume this situation will never happen lol.

I have already bypassed the said valve you are talking about in the rear rather than gutting it. If you notice in my first post I mentioned my rear pads are less grabby than the fronts, I just wanted a clear understanding of whats going on but my first step was going to be ceramic pads in the rear then see where it goes. Thanks for the help bud.

Same way i've learned to master the heal toe, driving a mafs car with no BOV for a couple years will do that to you. I find myself even doing it on my Z even though it idles fine... bad habit i guess. Funny thing is my toyota truck needs heel toe til this day to keep the rpms high enough when the AC is on so it doesn't cycle the compressor from getting the rpm too low hahah.

Makes sense, I was unsure on the topic so I though I would make this thread. Does the 15/16 280zx master cylinder split the front and rear pressure equally or does the front get more fluid? Would reversing the front and rear reservoir lines to the splitter on the frame rail change to a more rear biased setup? Lastly does the splitter on the driver frame rail have any restriction/proportioning of its own or is it simply flowing fluid to the correct lines.

Are most people plumbing these valves into the rear lines enabling them to decrease rear line pressure? reason I ask is because I would like to INCREASE rear line pressure but I always see people installing it in the rear which means people are reducing the rear line pressure. My car is finally breaking like it should and I am happy so far but I was thinking I could get it to brake a bit better since the front are locking wayyyy sooner that the rears still. So I guess I would have to install the valve inline going to the splitter on the driverside frame rail to decrease my front line pressure so the rears can catch up a bit.... anyways heres a quick rundown of my system, just wondering if anyone else has one installed on the front lines. 1971 240z 280zx 15/16 master stock proportioning valve on frame rail removed rear pressure valve thing for drum brakes near rear tee vented 4x4 brakes up front (ceramic pads) maxima brakes in rear (semi-metallic, im thinking ceramic in the rear would help with my problem too but lets ignore this for now)

first off are you sure you have the right wire? Is it a black wire with a pink stripe? You need to hook up the test light to a power source like your battery terminal (alligator clip side) and put the tip of the test light on the black pink wire. If the light turns on and then off when the ignition is switched on(priming the pump) then you have the right wire (switched ground). Don't check for voltage (there will obviosly be voltage if you are connecting a positive wire and a switched ground) if you ground you alligator clip and put the tip of the test light on the black/pink wire and it lights up you are on your own.... lol You run the black pink wire to pin 2 along with a switched ignition to pin 1. Then you run a direct line from battery with 20 amp inline fuse to pin 3 on relay and run pin 5 on the relay to the pump positive. Ground the pump and you have succesfully hardwired your fuel pump... mine reads around 14.5v at the pump and runs of the factory ecu... 300zx ecu for what its worth but it should be the same. Here is a cute diagram I drew for some guy at one point or another lol if you are not using a standard nissan blue relay just follow the drawing on the relay, they are all very simliar. http://rspistons.com/images/fuelpump.jpg

I modified a 240z front bumper. Cut it to length, bent the arms in and welded it up. I deposited a bunch of metal on it and grinded it down till I had the right shape. I'd like to add that I wouldn't have butchered a good 240z bumper. I got it for free, the front was mangled up but the sides were very straight so it only made sense to do what I did. Overall I love how it came out with the grill I made for it.

I just realized I looked like a dirty shop rag when you saw me too, hahaha, I had been working on the car all day and was covered head to toe. I just wanted to get out on a test drive so I hopped in the car looking like a homeless kid

I'm still confused on where I am going with as far as color in concerned. I might just leave it flat black or paint it one of three colors. GTR blue was my original choice and I've been throwing around the idea of dark silver metallic or dark gray metallic. At this point I'm just sitting on it though, going to get the car running exactly like I want it before I get into paint. Next on the list is the refinement stage. I just finished up bumpsteer spacers yesterday, I'm considering moving the mounting point of the control arms up on the subframe but I'm gonna see how it feels like this first. I've gathered most of my parts for the rear CV conversion, just waiting on adapters. I ordered a heater core and blower from summit racing so I can make it through the winter lol. Also going to install my MSA seal kit, I was waiting for the paint job but im sick of the wind noise and I will buy another kit if I have too. Lastly I want to install a really good overhead light for the interior, I feel like I'm blind at night Lol. After that I'm looking to do a turbo upgrade. Something like a gt30r, 60-1, t3/to4e, etc... anything in the 400-500hp range. I'm ready to do the upgrade right now, pretty much waiting to find a good deal so I can justify spending the money

The endtanks were an inch to wide so they didn't fit through the original holes in the crossmember. Mounting them on the bottom gave me enough room to swing them in and they look pretty cool IMO. I could have welded 90s directly on the endtanks but I doubt it will make a difference as far as spool in concerned, these cars already have shorter piping than most cars with front mounts.

I just saw you with the S2000 right? Sorry I was caught up in getting my brake light fixed and when my car needs me my mind is on "fix the car" mode. (ending up being a fuse, I put it a new one which happened to be bad so I was diagnosing crap for no reason, popped in another fuse and it was good to go) The pump is a external pump that my friend had for his turbo 350z. I had a 300lph MSD pump which died in about 3 months. I was pulled on the side of the road and I remembered my friend had the external laying around so I picked it up for $50 so I can get the car off the road and its been fine since. I wanna say its something along the lines of a 255 walbro inline but its a different brand and rated at 300 lph, I remember it started with the letter "P" lol. What ever you do don't buy a MSD pump....garbage. The one vent was near the top of the tank, I just ran a hose up a bit from the nipple (5/16" if memory serves me right) then pointed it back down. I figure it will vent from there there even with a lot of gas and there was less chance of fuel spilling out, been cool so far

Whatever you do don't get a MSD pump. I've installed two and both have failed within 6 months. After reading online I saw I'm not the only who had them fail. I've had way better luck with walbros, not the MOST reliable pump but tons better than MSD in my opinion. An aeromotive or bosch 044 is going to be your best bet.

Any of you guys mind sharing timing maps, Im running a nistune too and I'm curious what everyone else is running for timing.

Sweetness, I hope mine holds up as well as yours does! I'm rockin stock headgasket and studs too. Other than seals, and smalls gaskets here and there and some powdercoating she's the same as the day nissan put her together How much power are you putting down with and w/o nitrous?

Awesome numbers, amazing what a stock block can do in a s30 Are the studs and head gasket changed or is it an unopened motor?

Just slapped the HIDs in initially but its changing soon. Its better than stock but the beam pattern is garbage. I picked up a set of newer BMW projectors from a junkyard with the high beam solenoids, don't know what model though since they were disassembled from the headlight. Im going to shoehorn them into the headlight I have on there now and wire up the solenoids so Ill have HIDs with BMW spec lighting and a functional high beam. p.s. my manifold rocks, thanks for the complements otherwise

Love the look of the motor! great job so far

I need the following: Companion flange and stub axle from a 280z CV axles from a 280zx 240 260 or 280z front control arms, stock blown bushings would be perfect email or pm tooft77 (at) yahoo.com

I'll see if I could snap some pics of the fuel setup but its pretty simple. I was originally going to upgrade to a cell or surge tank but I've had no problems with this setup so I might just leave it alone. Pretty much a feed from the original drain of the tank going to a external pump with pre and post filters. Ran new 5/16 feed and return lines following the the factory hardlines (didn't trust the 40 year old lines). Running a stock RB fuel rail (525cc injectors) which is drilled and tapped for a fitting so I can run an external regulator which returns fuel to the original tank pickup so it puts the fuel back in the bottom of the tank. I kept one vent on the tank and one big line which connects to the fuel filler section and got rid of the factory plastic box in the fender which has a billion lines running to it. So far so good, I just keep the tank over a 1/4 tank and have had no issues yet even at the track. I was probably one of the last few people to get the OEM rear sump oil pans and pickups. I got one locally at Erics Performance when the whole discontinued oil pump situation happened, I guess I just got lucky when I called them and he had one in stock even though they didn't have it listed.

MINI UPDATE: Gonna start the car today after being down for a month. Following was done. Rear disc conversion, upgraded master cylinder, redid the intercooler piping on the driver side so its one piece, recirculated BOV, installed clear timing cover, carbon fiber coilpack cover, switched to external fuel pressure regulator, installed xenon headlights, extended intake out of engine bay, rewired a few odd ends I didn't like and tucked the harness and ignitor behind dash and some small things... Also put the cage in but it was before the car went down for the revamp. On to some pics, ill get better ones once I tie up the loose ends and clean her up.

I believe it was like 50 bucks extra so its not too much, I ended up paying another 100 for lines and block adapter so $150-$200 is cheap for an oil cooler setup in my book. The oil cooler works just like any external oil cooler so you don't fill them with oil really. The lines going to the -AN fittings feed and return the oil through a regular oil cooler core which is welded into the cold entank of the radiator as opposed to being external for air to cool it. I don't have any pics through the cap but you can see a standard oil cooler just hanging out in the endtank and the fittings are just welded through. Its gets its oil supply from the oil filter housing just like any aftermarket oil cooler. My personal theory is you don't need a thermostat to control the oil cooler this way since your coolant will heat up the oil to operating temp and pretty much hold it there so it sorta ties your normal tstat into the oil circuit. Obviously it will add some heat to the cooling system if you are running higher oil temps through the radiator (which has a cooler water temp) but thats why we bought a huge aluminum radiator because it can handle it lol T S30 H - hit me up with any questions on PM or in person Ill be glad to help. I'm harder to make appointments with than the president though, these 24 hour days just don't cut it