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About Villeman

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  1. Hey, engine is running well. Had some problems with the differential and a 3:11 ended up in the rear with a TR style mount ^^. Sadly I didn´t get it on the street this year, with corona travel restrictions etc. I will take the time to also get the CA18DET gearbox up to date (I feel like a hoarder, already got 3 or 4 ^^). Next year will be fun again hopefully. In the mean time I really think about buying a Toyota Bandit.....I guess I need help (like in counselling....) ... and Dan, I definitely will! This planning on discussing this over a ste
  2. Hallo all, just got word from my mechanic that my Diff is toast. From his statement, the whole drivetrain blocks up when hot, no play at all. Loosens again when cold. Thing is, I am running a shortened driveshaft (200sx gearbox conversion) + an RT mount. Can this combination too much for the Diff? I know RT mount gives me 2° of misalignment, any idea about the gearbox input? Would like to figure things out before the next R200 goes in ^^ . Also, does anybody know EXACTLY how much to shorten a 280z 2+2 driveshaft (76model) for the KA24DET gearbox? There are 1,5" and 2" floating aro
  3. Hello, I am in need of a 76 thermostat housing (preferrably with the sensors still in) since I fried mine overheating the engine recently. i am quite sure other model years will work too. Best regards, Richard
  4. Hi, do you happen to have a thermostat housing with the sensors from a 280z? Greetings, Richard
  5. Do you happen to have a Thermostat housing with the sensors? Overheated my engine and fried them up
  6. Update time: managed to get a 4 terminal HEI Module in Germany and threw it in yesterday. I followed Eurodats description on classiczcar and put it in place in the passenger footwell. Car runs really! good now, no issues with engine dying anymore (more testing to come). The only issue was a hot-start problem, car wouldnt run after shutting it down hot. the weird thing, we pushed it back 2 meters and it immediately started again (was cranking over before but quite unwillingly). But I did fill up with E5 (presumed to provoke vapor lock) Battery was low-ish Temp switch
  7. It runs perfectly after 20 minutes. What I observed: It now sounds more "powerful" , maybe better spark/change of spark? (I disassembled the resistor for measuring properly) We drove it again and it cut out from running perfectly. Tach dropped to zero immediately. Cranking afterwards moved the tach though. We brought another spark plug along, directly after the engine dying we checked and had spark (but that time you could restart it after 30 seconds, not like last time where it took 15 minutes). One funny thing, it cut out again while driving but then I ran over a speed bump
  8. Hello Guys, I stumbled upon a problem getting my car out of hibernation. The car: All stock unmolested 280z 2+2 CALIFORNIA VERSION from 9/75 -> 76 Model. Everything still in place, CAT,EGR,Vaccum system etc. I drove maybe 15 km and the engine stopped INSTANTLY. No stumbling nothing --> Indicates an ignition problem since car ran after a 15min break, only to die again 3 min later. Same happened after towing it home. Sadly I did not monitor the tach so no idea if it dropped suddenly Observations: Fuel Pump was very quiet, ran today and was a
  9. Hey all, I am looking for side-mirrors, preferrably chrome ones (no need to be original). Not the fender mirror bullet style please best regards, Richard
  10. Long Story short…. I blew up the engine replaced a freeze plug the engine builder missed…. and the replacement was too loose (kind of knew that or at least was afraid of). Testdrives etc were fine and 400km further I had to do a hard pull on the autobahn an tadaaaaa, coolant blew out. Sadly I drove to the next parking lot because I thought it was fire (black smoke coming in immediately) fast forward.. pulled the engine and that thing is tough as nails! 2-3 miles without coolant while already hot and nothing. Rings good, crosshatch good, head good. We pulled the main
  11. Finally I am done. Had some issues with suspension and injectors. Now it is doooone! (This time for real^^ )
  12. yes, but once they break containment..... and if there is oil and not air surrounding the broken seal. They were okay when I got them and a year later you cant move them one inch. Still, yes, success!
  13. I would maybe remove everything thats not needed just in case. Aren´t people suggesting ATF and a 1-2 day soak for this? Make sure you are not mangling up the chain in case it dropped down in a bad position (you did remove the wedge for chain Immobilisation, right ? ) then just try to work it in both directions, more of a rattling, trying to break the rings loose (an idea: If he puts the head on and uses a drill to prime the oil pump, would that bring oil back to the crank? )
  14. So, a quick update: Apparently all shocks seized completely. Since seizing for air shocks is unknown to me, I assume the Oil in the strut casing did this (filled to the top) so thats definitely something to know! Thanks everybody for the help. New shocks are in and rides like a charm
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