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About Villeman

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  1. Villeman

    Spray bar or nah?

    Just to be able to blame back. Check the oil flow on each lobe before use ^^
  2. Villeman

    Oil in cylinder, retorque HG?

    I just multimetered them. Plug/wiring seems good. I guess its either blocked or getting tired. (3 are acutally still the original ones). Anybody has 3 spares? ^^
  3. Villeman

    Oil in cylinder, retorque HG?

    soooo.....I am basically an idiot.... the long version, looks like one injector seized or got blocked. I can still hear it firing with a screwdriver, but less defined, and when I pull the plug nothing changes as opposed to all other cylinders. Can I swap over the plug from cylinder 3? They should all fire at the same time, right? Just to rule out the cable..
  4. Villeman

    Oil in cylinder, retorque HG?

    Thanks TimZ, will definitely do that. Today some friendly 180SSS geeks living 5km away came to the rescue (you cannot imagine how rare datsun people are over here). We checked spark, all good swapped plugs to other cylinders compression tested all cylinders --> no problem here checked valve clearance --> tiny bit off on cylinder 4 did a leak down. --> pressure went away very fast on cylinder 4 and cylinder 3 (sadly I now realise we only checked those two) but no bubbling or hissing anywhere..... did we do something wong? The mechanic said it would most likely be okay since there is no noises anywhere at 6 bar pressure
  5. Villeman

    Oil in cylinder, retorque HG?

    Here is the thing. I am positive I could fix the valve seal here and still drive the car (registration going another month before winter break) but definitely not a ring...thats why I dont want to take the head off here, no chance getting it home then (would you say it could be driven 450km in this condition?). Is there any way to visually inspect the valve seals with the cover off? If I get it right I wont gain much from a simple compression test because there already is oil in the cylinder? Any ways I will get a compression kit asap and then see
  6. Hey everybody, so we did a full engine restauration on my 76 280z and now I did 700km to break in the engine. It started to run rather rough after 450km and when I checked today, Cylinder Nr. 3 plug was all oily (2 and 4 looking perfect) and i could see an oil film on the cylinder (was up at that point). Also, oil pressure shows rather low (nearly 0 when idling hot and 1/3 on 3000rpm) but that could also be the gauge which is still the original one. So, did I mess up the break in? Engine had to sit quite some time after assembly and we put the rings in ourselves. Whats now the sensible way? (I am 500km away from my shop+tools). Could a head retorque work? I would like to try this before going to a shop for a compression test. Any other good way apart from a leakdown to differentiate headgasket from valve stem (somebody mentioned going to 4000rpm in low gear and have somebody watch for smoke when going off the throttle rapidly)? Also, there is a little leak close to cylinder Nr. 4 on the block but not oil..... Also: no overheating, no excessive oil consumption as far as I can tell that now. Oil is clear, not frothy. Did check for bubling in the radiator or hissing after running it 2 min cold. Pistons were new, as well as rings etc etc. thanks in advance
  7. My car is officially done since I start messing with it Will go for the 92´200sx (never had 240sx here) CA18det gearbox swap thanks to our workshop here at work ^^ Managed to find a pristine box for 110$ in other news, I managed to get my fuel tank all rusted out. But for now it will work again.... VID-20180726-WA0000[1].mp4 VID-20180726-WA0000[1].mp4 ope
  8. now that would be a fun LS swap for sure especially since the whells are just welded metal plates, called Pilote Wheels
  9. in other news. My fathers project also finished nearly in the same time. Just leaves the shared project 4wd to be finished
  10. Villeman

    280SR-Z from Germany

    In case somebody wants some chunks translated just let me know ^^ So far is was about an idiotic regulation here in germany where you can only increase power 40% over stock, then you need to supply a stiffness evaluation certificate for the car (above 10k€ ...) and the old SR20 CA18 discussion regarding aftermarket parts etc. I just asked for the 2+2 bumper parts ^^
  11. Villeman

    280SR-Z from Germany

    Hübsch! funk mal durch wenn du die Plastikteile der 280z Stoßstange loswerden willst. Bei mir sind einige gerissen und ich hätte gerne wenigstens die Option die zu nutzen. Apart from that, yes, 2+2 were really popular when the car was new. Nearly 1:1 rartio here of Coupe and 2+2 whereas it was like 1:10 in america iirc. Wheelbase->stability->autobahn
  12. Villeman

    Under Guard Kit 99090 Datsun racing

    Ah, good to know.... I would go into the areo direction. Any idea who could have dimensions? + 10mm ... Fiberglas? Sounds bulky indeed. Sooo, how would one tackle getting the aero transferred to an 280z
  13. Villeman

    Under Guard Kit 99090 Datsun racing

    i think so! + I would like to reproduce it, not purchase it. Thats why I would like to see the dimensions thats w
  14. Hey all, i have always wonders about this thing here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_tGt5V5rGDVNzBNN2RYbVNYRFE/view Item 24. its the racing under guard. Anybody has additional information about that one, or even measurements? Looks like a good idea for german autobahn ^^
  15. Villeman

    1975 280z Part Out, bushings, and more

    Sounds good, shoot me a PM with price+shipping to Germany please Already got the switch in the meantime, so just the harness + eventually radio