ArizonaZ

Excellent write up! I picked up a Saturn motor at the pick a part a few months ago and will be using this when the time comes to put it in.

Looks great! Do you happen to know what material it was printed out of? I would be hesitant of using anything but ABS.

I am currently running the CS130 alternator on my car, it takes a modified alternator mount and a new tensioning arm (turnbuckle), but it works great. I also have a champion 3 row that will be going into the car when I get it painted. I went down to the junkyard and grabbed a dual fan set-up from a Ford Contour, it fits the radiator almost perfectly and should be thin enough to fit with the L series. I cant find any solid numbers but internet lore states that the fans put out around 3500CFM at 30 amps.

The Kameari GT seats look very similar, but expect to pay a very high premium for them. Here's a thread talking all about these types of seats http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/forum/garages/resto-tips-wheels-other-goodies/4749-vintage-seat-thread

I don't know how accurate this is, but here's a model of one I picked up a while ago. Here's a link to my google drive for a .step file of it. I can't upload it directly to the forum. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7QMuH0UuWYxX2tvR3diWEZNSHc/view?usp=sharing

Wow, that looks great! I did mine while ago, and I know that it takes a lot of work to get it to look that good. Great job!

That's about the only thing that I'm coming up with as well. It's just a bit annoying that there isn't a way to make it work without a spacer.

I got the new flange in the other day and started doing some math with it. The problem isn't the nut sticking out, but the end of the stub axle. If you want it to be flush with the companion flange face, then you can only take off about 2.5mm from the splined side. This leaves only 16.5mm of spline engagement vs the 24mm that the stock flange has.

Thanks for the offer! Just a little too late though, I already ordered one last night haha.

I measured the washer and the 280ZX self locking nut stack up and its about 19.5mm. I'm thinking the flange may still work if less or no material is removed from the end. Unfortunately I already started machining mine, so I will need to get another one to play with.

Well I may have found an issue with these flanges. The counterbore where the nut goes is shallower on the Toyota flange. When I make it so they match, there is very little material left. Attached are the sectioned views with some measurements.

For me the main advantage would be losing 8 fasteners in the axles. If you used the adapters on both sides of a single axle you would end up with 40 bolts in both of the axles! Getting that number down would be preferable to me.

I plan on using these flanges with 930 joints, but I think a small spacer will need to go between the joint and the flange accommodate the plunging of the axle. I'm thinking a 5/8" spacer should be plenty. The outer diameter of a 930 joint is 108mm, so there is plenty of room for them.

Yep, that would work. I was thinking about how to attach that sleeve, and my first thought was to use loctite that is meant for cylindrical parts. I also looked into new oil seals and you can find 72mmx38mmx10mm ones pretty easily for ~$4 as well.

Thanks Neverdone, I think that worked! Here are the links for the downloads: Datsun stub axle flange Toyota diff flange