ArizonaZ

I think that the dieseling occurs from carbon deposits in your combustion chamber staying hot and igniting the fuel mixture. You might want to try some "seafoam" to see if that helps

I would assume that it would cause problems building boost if the cracks are severe enough. They would allow the exhaust gasses to leak around the wastegate and not go into the turbine. Although it might not cause any problems if the metal expands when it gets hot and closes the cracks. I'm not to sure on any of that, just thinking out loud.

Thanks for the reply. I figured that it was a balancing cut, but I wasnt to sure. I sourced another turbine housing, so now I wont have to worry about fixing the cracks or getting out that broken bolt. thanks

The "connected to return line" are just vents for the float bowls, normally they are just connected to the air filter

I opened up my turbo tonight to find some cracks, a broken bolt, and a chip on the hot side of my turbo. I know that the T3 has a problem with cracks developing around the wastegate. Are my cracks to big to run/fix, and is the chip in the turbine, a chip or was it taken out for balancing? Thanks for any input.

I had the same problem, and tried everything to get my turn signals to work. Cleaning the hazard switch was all that it took for the signals to work again. Here is how I did it Take out hazard switch from console. Then take out the four screws in the back Then take out the little pivot piece Then I just sanded down all four contact pads with 600 grit sandpaper, cleaned it then put it back in. and now my turn signals work great

Here is a link to some floor plugs, im not sure what size you need, so you will need to go check.

you can try looking in the factory service manual here, I recommend downloading it first before you try to open it. -Brad

I dont think that the 280's came with the seatbelt interlock, from what I remember it was put on the 260's and then dropped when the 280Z came out, but they may have continued it into '75, im not sure.

Here are a couple of websites that helped me out when I was learning about SU's Here and Here

Could it be that the floats are stuck closed, and not letting fuel get into the bowls?

The procedure is outlined in the back of the "How to restore your Datsun Z Car" book. I had to do the same thing when on my 260. Here are the instructions: 1. Cut both the red/green stripe and red/yellow stripe wires about 3 inches from the emergency switch. 2. Join the connector ends of the loose wires. 3. Insulate the connected ends and remaining loose ends on the switch side. I followed these directions and the interlock has worked great for me. No more pushing the red button everytime I start the car. Brad

Lol I dont know why you are apologizing to me.

Is this what you are looking for? Brad

It could be a L26 too they had P30 blocks with E88 heads.

I have been getting a few resets every now and then, im using a shielded wire for the RPM signal. Do I need to shield it some more?

I just finished installing my megasquirt on my 260Z with the E88 head. I have gotten it to run and idle quite well and it will rev nicely. The problem im having is that it wont sustain any RPM above idle. If I try to give it a constant throttle position the duty cycle will decrease and it will bog down and die. Here is a datalog of when it happens, its about 3/4 of the way through. Is this something I can fix in megatune or is it my injectors? Data Log.zip

I have the same problem in my 260, when I turn the key it will go to redline, and I think that only thing thats stopping it is the pin, but sometimes it will back off of the needle and settle at 7000 and then sometimes it does nothing, so im pretty sure that its just a bad tach

Heres an older but still relevant thread on the subject http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=81977&highlight=triples+EFI

Yeah I have a 93 Mustang LX 5.0 and it has the HO

Im going to be megasquirting my 260Z and im going to be using a surge tank with my 260Z tank. I know that I will need a surge tank, and I plan on using a 280ZX fuel pump to feed my injectors. My question is will a 42 GPH fuel pump be sufficient to feed my surge tank, or would I need a higher rated pump. Thanks Brad

Does it look like this?

Notice he said in the Z community, there never was a L24E in a stock Z

Haha I have seen that commercial too and I did the exact same thing. My dad thought that I had lost it when I said that there was a Z in that half a second of the commercial.

HAHAHA that is Awesome ^^^^