IncompetentOne

Does not have to be an N42 head! as long as it with mate to an N42 block.

I am looking for a cylinder head that I can mate to my N42 block. I was mainly looking for local pickup but any offers will be considered. Pictures would be awesome if you have them. Charlotte NC, 1977 280z 2+2 w/EFI.

ah I understand now, cam has to be an exact height above the head/block so it does not grind itself to pieces. Thanks!

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEM01 Which cam should I buy? I was thinking about the stage 3... Grind: 17034. Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. Duration(In/Ex): 270/280. I still have to research exactly what each of these mean but It sounds about right so far.

The engine has no compression because most of the valves are always open. The new head is a shaved N42 and the old head was an N42 as well. The N42 block is still being used as well. What If I bought a new cam with a smaller base circle? then would it work? there is zero slack in the chain, the only problem is the rocker arms are ALWAYS applying pressure not allowing the valves to fully close. Also: would the link that I posted in the first post be the same as shims? If not then could someone provide a link to some solid shims that would do the trick?

1977 280z 2+2 non-California model I recently rebuilt my "engine" due to a blown headgasket and decided to replace the head as a whole while I was at it. It came off of a race car (owner claimed). It was straight as an arrow and was obviously shaved a good bit. Now it is on the car with a new Fel-pro Gasket (not sure of thickness). I tried to start it a few times but it would not turn over. It would only try to run on one or two cylinders. I then put a head on my shoulders and "finger checked" the compression of each cylinders. None at all. I then looked at the rocker arms and saw that all of the lash adjustments were as high as they could go. I wound them down until my wrench could not fit anymore. There is still zero wiggle room in the rocker arms though. I plan on buying some thin wrenches and taking them down more. But if that does not work I was going to buy these: http://kameariusa.com/L6_CamHolderSpacer.php They are cam holder spacers. I would buy the largest and just wind the rocker arms up to fill the gap but not so much to kill the wiggle room. Sound like a good idea? Anyone have any experience with these?

This car looks so damn good...

good lord there so much that I dont know about cars... I will fiddle with it in the morning to see if i can get a pulse going. Also: i held ope the AFM flap with a screwdriver and tried to start the car, two of the cylinders (5 +6) fired but none of the others. I believe the lash on these two are fine which makes sense. Does that sound reasonable?

Thats my guess, the spark plugs dont even smell like fuel. Could the lash gap have anything to do with that? There was no compression in the cylinders because both the valves were always open. but shouldn't the injectors still shoot fuel into the cylinders? I will get a noid light thing and start testing

Thanks!

When setting valve lash gap, does the cam lobe have to be facing directly up? or can they be facing to the side as well? Also, is there a such thing as "raising the cam" by putting shims under the cam towers?

thanks!

fuel pump works filters are letting gas through fine but I will get a pressure gauge new gas, tank was drained and cleaned gas sprays out at high pressure when disconnecting the fuel rail Will look into the electrical connecters and I had a few minutes to spare so I went out and got someone to try to crank the car while I had my hand firm again the spark plug hole and it did not put any pressure on my hand at all so I assume it is compression! I took a quick glance at the rocker arms ant they are as stiff as a rock, so I will reset the valve lash on all cylinders when i buy the tools tomorrow. The front end of the car is up on jacks, so when I sprayed in starting fluid it all ran to cylinders 5 + 6. they ignited just fine. I will attempt to get some clear pics of everything the next time its light out. Thanks for the posts guys!

1977 280z 2+2 non Cali model (n42 head and block) For starters: I do have the manuals for the car and have read the sections many times. But some questions I had just weren't answered there so here we go. -There is a vacuum hose leading from the distributor to a little cylinder with the other hose going to the carbon canister, is this needed of can I just plug off the hole. If it is needed, what do the two wires coming from the small cylinder plug into? -Also, when the engine is at TDC with the distributor on, it points directly toward the front of the car, right on top of the cylinder that is supposed to fire first. is this correct or way off? I thought that the rotor had to start before the first cylinder? - I have tried to start the car many times within the past few weeks but it wont even pop once or twice. I took the plugs out today and they are perfectly clean, and barely even smell of gas. So I assume the injectors are not doing their job properly. I saw on someones build that they had to sauder the connection together in the air flow meter because it was not telling the car to open the injectors. Thank you in advance for any comments

http://datsunspirit.com/?wpsc-product=dsi-spark-plug-wires these? they are around 100 bucks, worth it though as they look and perform great

Thanks! cant seem to get the damn car started.

Hello All, I have a N/A 1977 280z (N42 head, N42 Block). When setting the oil pump shaft in the car, does the notch on the crankshaft pulley need to point directly to zero on the little reference plate? because on the hood of my car is a sticker that says that it should point at "+10". I have searched around for the answer with no avail. The car does not seem like it wants to start at all. This is after a head gasket swap. Also: is it possible that after so long the rubber in the puller goes bad and gives an inaccurate TDC?

May I ask what type or spark plug wires are on your S30? The way they wrap around the cover instead of going over it looks so much better

Thanks for the help!

could i just block off the holes/ passages or should i put the canister back in? also: the previous owner did one hell of a job of leaving random wires unplugged with nothing to connect it to. is there a place where i could get a wiring diagram or photos of some sort?

Well I just want the car to start, so I left off the ac pump, put on a new cylinder head, carbon canister has been taken out but I have not yet closed up the hoses that the tubes led to, the thermostat housing cracked so currently none of those wires are hooked up as i have not sourced a new one yet. I am trying to get consistent air/ fuel/ and spark out of the car so I can see if it is back together properly or if I need to do another tear down

The head gasket decided it hated life and detonated itself. I replaced it, now i am just in the process of troubleshooting to get it running again. L28 EFI 1977. what could stop the injectors from working properly? Is it still possible that the ignition timing could be off?

I have a 77 280z with an EFI L28. I would like to buy a kit that is bolt on. if they need to be rebuilt that is fine but i expect a much lower price if they do. Thank you for any response or posts.

and the car will fire if i spray starting fluid in it so i dont believe it is the spark

well i Know the car is getting Air, so the only other culprit could be the spark timing or the fuel.