IncompetentOne

Are you in Charlotte? if you have any parts that you are selling let me know! I live in the north Davidson area

I agree with 9rider. Let the car run, and remove each injector plug while the car is running. When you get to one of the plugs where nothing happens when you remove it, there's your problem. Good luck! I just did this today and it was because my second injector connection was loose

Hello, I am having an issue with my fuel system clogging so I would like to switch to a fuel cell setup. I was mainly looking for something local (Charlotte NC). I would like to keep the cost below $300 as well.

NewZed - I just replaced the plugs a few days ago but I will be sure to check them. I had a head built for the car, with stiff valve springs and new valves off of a racing Z... Don't know if that makes a difference or not though. The EGR hole block off really does look like it's covered in a mix of oil and gas though

Psdenno - yeah probably shouldn't try to show off. Elishallen- that's what i put in it about three weeks ago! It may be too much loose lining in the tank ? NewZed - is it possible for me to move it?

Hello hybridz, To start off, I own a four speed 1977 280z and I have the manuals off Xenons30. I bought the car just before I turned 16 two years ago. In the two years I have done a head swap, clutch change, and quite a few other mods in attempt to make the car fun and daily-able. I have finally been able to start driving the car to school this month. For the first few days, I was driving it with open headers because I upgraded to the MSA 6-1 headers, and since I finally got the exhaust made up I thought I should take my girl out for lunch one day at school as we are seniors. We left the lot along with most of the other seniors, and of course, I decided to show what the Z could do. It was a long road, an S bend then a half mile straight with no intersections. I floored it up to around 80, let he revs fall while in gear so you can hear the compression through the exhaust, then pushed the clutch in to start slowing down. Then I realized the engine had died, I quickly started it back up before my girl noticed anything was wrong. It ran like CRAP for the last quarter mile or so. It sounded like it was missing on a few cylinders. Stopped at the red light at the end of the street and of course the car dies. It took about five tries for it to start again. I immediately pulled into a gas station as I thought maybe it was a fuel issue. After putting a few gallons in it, it wouldn't start again. I checked spark and it had great spark. Fresh battery as well. It had to be a fuel problem then. I pushed the Z into a parking space and called a friend to come pick us up. After school, I hurried back to the gas station of course. To my surprise, it started right up. I turned it off to go in the store and thank the manager for watching over my car. Come back out, and it won't start again. I unplugged the cold start injector, tried to start it a few times and then it started... -I was thinking maybe my tank, lines, and filter are clogged? -Also, when I was trying to figure out why it wouldn't start, I took out my plug for the EGR on the intake, and it smelled like gas, but it almost looked like oil... -I am very familiar with the car inside and out, but I have always had one question... When the car is in gear rolling at "high" speeds, does the compression of each cylinder still pull up the flap in the AFM and spray fuel? I will upload pics of my EGR block off, and of the car in general Thanks to any comments or suggestions! I have been reading builds on Z's for a while and they are all pretty damn sick!

You're building my dream setup hahaha this looks sick! Really inspiring work man. Keep it up

If it has an EGR hose from below the intake be sure to check it. They rot often. Also, check the rubber section in between the air flow meter and the intake. Good luck!

Hey man, I'm 17 (18 in jan) and bought my Z just before my 16th birthday. It's a 77 280z with fuel injection. Four speed transmission. These cars are old and at least for me, stuff breaks all the time. So before you go ahead and do some crazy swap, at least drive a stock one first. My car is very fast with basic mods (headers, slight headwork), sounds fantastic, and people always walk up to talk about it at gas stations. I hoon the hell out of it all the time too. If you plan on swapping the motor, I suggest buying a Z that runs and drives, and save up money to buy all the parts. If you rip the Z apart and go piece by piece, It will take forever and it's easy to lose motivation for it. They are pretty simple cars to work on (I have done a head swap and clutch swap by myself) but you have to know how everything works. Hybrids will help a lot. Good luck! I'm melvinthemechanic on Instagram if you need any quick help along the way

Did you ever get an aswer to this problem? I have the same year Z with the same problems no dash lights or anything

thanks guys! I will check it out tomorrow after I can get it to my friends house which has a garage. I am really hoping it is just a bolt that stripped or something which it probably is

morbias - I plan on it tomorrow as it's dark out now and raining, but will my idea work if things are all busted up?

(1977 280z 2+2) Hello guys and gals, today I had to take the z and go rescue a stranded friend. When I pulled back in the driveway, I pulled the emergency up about 3/4 of the way and felt a pop. I was hoping the linkage had not broken but with it all the way up, I let off the foot brake and the car started to roll of course. To the point: I know that the lever pulls a rod forwards, then the rod twists a bar, which pulls on a cable that runs to both rear wheels. I was wondering, could I make up some brackets that would support a cable pull all the way back? - I was going to run to home depot, get some cable and the appropriate hose, make it so the emergency lever would pull the main cable, then yank on the rear cable and brake properly. Please list any concerns or ideas/experiences. Thank you for any responses! (I have looked through the forums but found no specific answer)

I found that my EFI 280z was having the same problem. My problem was that when going up a hill or really standing on the throttle from a start, the gas would sloth backwards for just a second, allowing the pump to make little air bubbles in the fuel line. I am planning on switching to a fuel cell with a sump in the very near future. good luck with the Z!

Not to pester here, hoping this is still somewhat alive. My 77 280z recently developed a familiar problem. My interior lights and headlights do not work, but they were fine a month ago. When I hit the switch, the volt guage drops below the lowest possible reading, also, when I am driving along on the road, it read where it should, right at 13-15 volts. But when I press on the brakes, the gauge goes below the lowest reading again. I know that this is a wiring issue, I just need a pointer on where to look. Thanks for any help!

Hello all, I have been searching the forums but have not found the exact answer I was looking for. I have a 1977 280z, EFI. I was driving today in fourth gear, then, all of a sudden, the power dropped off. I don't mean that all electrical power in the car was lost, but the engine went dead silent. The car was still in gear, and my foot still had the throttle at about 30% open. The car is currently open headers so I definitely know that it wasn't firing on any of the cylinders. Then after a few seconds,the engine will pop and crackle, and power will pick back up again. Recently it has happened once or twice every 10 miles or so. It is not always fourth gear, sometimes third as well. I was thinking that it may pull a bit of air in the fuel line when it sloshes or something? Or maybe it could be time for new wires/ ignitor/ distributor rotor? (I have no idea when they were last replaced) No idea if this is related: -While driving the volts read at about 13-14, but when at a red light with my foot on the brake, the voltmeter will SOMETIMES bottom out. The car will still be running fine but the needle will go as low as possible on the gauge. Thanks for any responses in advance!

If MSA doesn't have them, black dragon does

Can't wait to see this car done! I have always wanted to see a properly built drift s30

Honestly, I would get a 240Z, swap in a ZX turbo engine or a triple carbed l28, and spend the most money on things like suspension components and engine upgrades. I am by no means a purist when it comes to engine swaps, but a v8 just doesn't do it for me in these cars specifically. And if all else fails, just mail me your 10k hahahaha

Thanks luseboy. I guess I will find one from a turbo model or a 2+2 280z so that it fits.

Thanks Metro and BluDestiny for clearing that all up! I will search for the larger flywheel and throw out collar for the Z

Hello all, I drive a 1977 280z 2+2 N/A, N47 head on N42 block. I was changing the clutch last night and in the process of trying to put on the new pressure plate, I found out that it is too big, so is the new disk. I drive a 2+2, so shouldn't I have the large disk and pressure plate? I have checked all over hybridz and motorsport auto (the z store) and I am positive. I remember the previous owner saying that he blew the motor so swapped one in from another 280z (he wasn't specific and I was too stupid to ask if it was a coupe or 2+2). Could it have been a coupe which would make it have the smaller kit? My main questions are: 1) Could I swap the larger flywheel on and continue on? 2) If I do swap the flywheel would the started be in the wrong place (too close)? 3) Would a turbo flywheel work ? Thanks for any help, responses, or recommendations!

Has your tank ever been cleaned? could be bad gas causing rough running. Also, i know that you sprayed car cleaner over the vac lines and whatnot but just check the pcv hose at the bottom of the intake for good measure. When you turn the car on from a cold start, the Idle air valve should help keep it from bogging or trying to cut off... but if you removed it like I did you will have to wait until the car warms up in roughly a minute. good luck with the Z!

Im 17, also don't make much, and have a 77 280z 2+2. In my opinion, I would stick with the 2+2 and spend the money that you do get beefing up the 280 suspension and engine. I have done a head swap, 6-1 headers, radiator, this week I'm replacing the clutch, letting my friend make the exhaust system, and switching to an electric fan. (all funded by a summers worth of work at a theme park that pays $7.50 an hour with working less than 40 hours a week) I can definitely tell the difference in the way the car runs and pulls when I drive it. I understand you when you want to go for less weight and hoon around above the speed limit, but my 280 weighed 2700 from the factory, which is'nt heavy at all. Just to try to add a point to my random facts about my car, I would focus on handling and power before you decide to buy an entirely new shell and spend months putting it all together. Whatever you decide, have fun with the Z! good luck bro.

I would do exactly what Pharaohbq said. The gas tank could be full of rust so try to drain it first if you can. also, watch out for small (or large) animals hiding in the car hahaha. My 77 280z had quite a few rats hiding under the carpet. check the floorpans so you don't flinstone it when driving down the road. Just all the obvious things to stay safe. Check the battery cables for obvious corrosion. Good luck with the Z!