IncompetentOne

possibly the funniest thing I have ever read inn my life

I have a 77 280z as well and my 6 to 1 headers are fantastic. I did not have to do any modifying to the head or the headers to get it to fit. when installing them, it rubs against the steering "rod". nothing major... just give it a little push and it slides in. when installed it does not rub against anything, or touch anything for that matter. I did have to wrap my headers though to keep temps down. I wrapped them down to where they all conjoin into one. I do not have air conditioning on my Z so i do not have the pump there. It looks like more than enough space but i would research a bit more first. I can not say that your experience will go as smoothly as mine, but I had no problems with these headers. they come coated in some black protective spray, i would go ahead and buy some VHT paint and spray them. for the best results, wear some clean gloves, take the headers from the box, and spray them with a few coats. when i sprayed them, the VHT paint peeled off from my fingerprints because of the oil my hands left. good luck! I highly recommend them but it is just my opinion. the 3-2 should install well and sound great on your Z.

i would just sit in that tunnel and rev constantly

the temp gauge recently just stop giving off readings so i am looking for an aftermarket one to replace it. she runs fine if i leave it off for a while and restart it

Sorry its the stock Efi system with a stock ecu as well

NewZed thanks for the info.

make sure you coil is wired properly and timing is correct/ correct wire order. hold a plug to the body to be positive its spark thats the problem. also... once i just didn't have the plugs pushed all the way down onto the distributor cap. check for silly mistakes

Anybody?

1977 280z 2+2 just finished a head swap on the engine. It is open headers (unwrapped) currently and the only change I made to the new head was new springs and shims. I was letting the car idle in the driveway yesterday and it was doing fine. revved it a bit and all. The idle was as steady as can be. Then i tried to rev the car again and it bogged horribly, almost to the point of stalling. If i took my foot off the gas the idle would very slowly begin to fall. then if i stabbed the throttle again it would bog heavily then rev normally from around 3000 upward. I was thinking maybe the heat from the headers had something to do with it. I plan on wrapping them in the near future... hoping the lowered temps would make a change for the better.

Also I should mention that the car is open headers and the only heat shield it has is the one under the intake. I am going to wrap the headers soon and get a full exhaust as well.

1977 280z 2+2. Just finished a head swap on the car now troubleshooting until it runs properly. Yesterday I tried to start the car and it did, After letting the temps rise a bit I tried to rev the car and it sounded like it was bogging very bad, popping and all. It took a few seconds for it to actually start revving properly/ the way it should. I twisted the distributor a little bit while the car was running (got shocked like hell) and that seemed to fix the problem (so I thought). I tried to drive it around the block a few minutes later and it drove fine for about 10 minutes... then when I stopped at a stop sign and just let the car idle, the revs slowly fell until the car cut off. Had to push it home which was about 3 blocks hahahaha. Thanks in advance for any help. If pictures would help my instagram is melvinthemechanic its pictures from my build and current progress

Finally got the car running after a head swap! ... but also learned that nearly all of my vac lines lead to nothing... time to consult xenon s30 again...

amazing video and great car!

Thanks guys! I have taken the battery to autozone a few times to get it recharged to 100% and they said it was fine. I just suspected it was me trying to start the car so many times after the rebuild that killed the battery. I will replace the battery soon and keep searching for ground wires that have been disconnected or any broken wires. ALSO: the white wires with the red stripes that lead to the fusible links and whatnot... is there a replaceent kit or should i just buy some of the same gauge wire and replace them one at a time? i need to surely change the fusible links...

The volts are fine with the lights off. The car runs great with them off. and i have tested the alternator by completely removing the battery with the car running and it stayed running so i Know its not the alternator. I mainly think it has to do with a ground wire or two missing. If I leave the battery plugged in the car all night it will die, but if I unplug the battery and plug it in the next morning, the car will start.

Hello there, I have a 77 280z 2+2 that I just finished a head swap on with all new gaskets everywhere. I have the manuals from xenons30 to help as well. Tonight was the first NIGHT that I was trying to drive the car after the rebuild. The car battery was dead (which I believe is a grounding issue) so I used mom's car to jump mine. It idled fine just as it was supposed to, and then I flicked on the lights and within seconds the car started to die. If I quickly turn the lights back off and rev again, the car slowly returns to a normal idle. I will take some pictures that may help find the problem as well. My instagram name is: melvinthemechanic if you have one. lots of pictures of the Z on there and the head swap as well. Thanks for any comments or help! If anyone knows where i can find a general list of ground wires that would be awesome!

Mine looked like that as well. Really bad welding and had a crushed look to it... I thought maybe it was the previous owner that did it but now I think it may have been stock

Thanks!

I just got my 77 280z 2+2 running after a head/ head gasket swap. It now has an N47 head on a N42 block. I let it run for about a minute, then tried to turn the distributor to help it run smoother. I was shocked when I grabbed it. I was wondering if this was normal, because I don't remember having that problem before the rebuild... Is there anyone that knows all of the grounds and where they are supposed to be in the engine bay? I have the manuals from xenon but I still am obviously doing something wrong. also, I took the car for its second drive on the fresh head and I randomly lost power twice. The first time I just started the car again, but the second I had to get a jump from mom's car. The wiring harness is a mess due to the P.O but it wasn't giving me problems before i switched heads. Also: my temperature gauge is not working anymore (just in case this also is a grounding issue)

Thanks! Now im off to find a catch can with an air filter

Thanks! I assume since the valve screws into the intake i can just take it out and put a plug in its place

Would any negative effects occur if I were to block off the pcv valve as well as where it connects on the block, and put a little air filter on top of the camshaft cover? I know that the pcv valve pulls air out of the crank case to keep it all clean with fresh air but is it necessary?

thank you guys so much!

Is there a list somewhere that shows the compatibility of cylinder heads with blocks? I have an N42 block with dished pistons that i need a head for. the head needs to have square exhaust ports to go with the headers I bought

I was mainly looking for local. thanks for the offer though!