Jeff260z

Rota RB 16x7 4mm offset. 225/50/16 tires. I'm planning to change my tires to 205/55/16 soon. The 225's really follow every crack in the road and rub in both front and back.

There are two kinds of broken bolts. One you break from over tightening (or stressing) the other you break trying to remove. The first one is always easiest the get out as the broken piece is usually not seized into the hole. The second scenario is usually a big pain to remove. Imagine why it broke in the first place. The threads are seized and the stud or bolt broke rather than get them free. Bolt extractors will rarely work by themselves here. You had a complete bolt to begin with and it broke now you are going to try removing the broken section with an extractor hmm. If broken in the block you can use heat from a torch (propane should do) to get the corrosion to break free between the bolt and block. Then try the extractor. Most will come out with heat. Do not worry to much about warping or damaging the block. Heat the stud or bolt. It will expand faster than the metal in the block as the rust insulates it. I've done this many times.

If your speedo looks like this and the numbers line up then it should work. Mine has markings that say "1024 RPM=60MPH".

I made a metric km/h template for covering the 160 mph speedo from my 260z. If you use it send me some pictures. I have the original illustrator file. If you want a different color combo or a custom logo let me know. If I have the time I may do it for you. I'd recommend printing it on matte photo paper.

Just watched the latest video. It's been a while. I can't wait to see this car finished. Nissan should send you on tour! You have a lot of viewers.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AD1/50-1411 is the one you want if you have a 70-74.

I didn't realize the thread was 5 years old. LOL. Sorry guys. It did come up during a search and I didn't even think of checking the date.

As stated by someone else this would be an installation issue. The installer must have tied the timer into the starter and not the ignition. Why come on and complain about Japandy. Complain about the guy that installed the timer. Ask questions before you buy stuff on eBay. Research the hell out of it. Know what you are buying and ensure you have a good understanding of what it's supposed to do. Obviously the fact that it's engaging the starter should tell you right away it was wired wrong. You may want to edit the title on the post to be fair to Japandy.

Wow that is some nice paint. Wheels are nice to!

Ya learn something new everyday. Thanks Dave.

I've been reading about this painting technique for a few years or so now. I've seen a lot of pictures of the results that people with patience and proper techique produce. Some are truely amazing. There is no question some of these jobs are show quality. It is possible with patience to get perfection. I was quoted $10,000 to paint my 260z from one shop. I could get that paint job done and it still not be perfect (it better be though for $10K) Once it left the shop I could get a scratch or two and my perfect paint isn't perfect "show quality" any more. But with a roller I could just fix the scratches myself and have perfection again. I think I'm using Interlux brightside black on my car. It's boat paint for god sakes but you can't argue with the results.

Frig those look nice. What size are they? I wish they made a 4 or 5 mm offset to cure the rear fender rubbing issues with 225/50/16 tires.

NZeder do you know if the spring perch height is the same for early and late model 260z? Or is the early 260z the same height as a 240z?

But that Z have fender flares. You mean the original fenders have not been modified and you get no rubbing on hard bumps?

Those do look like the same wheels. Thanks for posting. what size tires is he running?

No one seems to have pictures of them mounted on an early Z. I know that the 16x8 wheels only come in zero offset, and that 225/50/16 tire fit under the car but there are rubbing issues on the rear fenders over hard bumps with a stock ride height. Rolling the lips seems to be a necessity.

Topher how did you make out with your tires?

BuBbLeGuInEa I was about to buy the 16x8 zero offset sportmax 513's and get some 225/50/16's but it seems a lot of people are having rubbing issues. My z is a stock height but I'm sure it would rub on bumps at speed. I think you should try rolling the fenders and if that doesn't make the rubbing tolerable then you could always flare it. I think you'd have to use spacers with your existing wheels if you flared the fenders. In my opinion it would look funny with the tires not out far enough.

Sideways did you get these wheels?

Someone else posted this link so I entered the stock tire size and the size I wanted to go with. Here are the results. I'm going to measure my existing rims offset and check the clearance I currently have and compare it to these numbers. I hope the 225/50-16's will fit with no rubbing.

You say they are a tight fit. Are you getting some rubbing? Did you have to roll the rear fender lips?

We need pictures man.

Nothing like hijacking a post...

wearedriverz in this post talks about his XXR 513 purchase with lots of pictures. Here is a picture he took of the inside of the wheel. He should know if there are any clearance issues. His wheels are 15x8. I want the 16x8's. I've been looking at these for a while. Once someone else does all the homework I'll get them. It's looks like there is plenty of room for the calipers.

Carol Shelby Talladega wheels. 14x7 - 0mm offset. I'm thinking of getting the XXR (sportmax) 513 wheels in 16x8 - Gunmetal.