jgkurz

Are stock dampners rebuildable or do we need to visit our local Nissan dealer for a new one? I need a two groove pulley with my setup so I guess I'll have to wait for JeffP's solution or keep the stock unit. The ATI solution would be perfect if only they had two or three pulley grooves. Can a custom two or three groove pulley be adapted to the ATI balancer? This seems like the easier way to go rather than having a whole new dampner designed. I'm watching this thread closely as I expect to have a higher RPM range with my new (almost installed) cam. Personally I will never go with a solid balancer as I've heard too many stories about high RPM crank problems in the L6. Regards,

I can't say for sure whether the 84 300ZXT trans is stronger than the Maxima or 280ZX transmissions. I assumed because it was originally in a turbo car that it would be suitable for a 280ZXT. I had no problems with the transmission after the swap.

You might want to consider a 1984 300ZXT automatic. In 84 Nissan did not use a lockup convertor in this car but it still has the overdrive. I have put this trans in an 83 280ZXT. It's close to a bolt up with the exception of custom driveline and a fabricated trans mount. The bellhousing from the 280zx bolts right up to the 300zx trans. Let me know if you'd like more info. Regards,

Great write up johnc. With that said, should a dyno run be done in a 1:1 4th gear for the most accurate results? What have other people done?

Hi all, I am planning on getting my car on a chassis dyno in mid March and have some questions. I've observed the same car on a chassis dyno and the peak HP and torque varies based on the transmission gear. In theory I could brag my car puts down 400RWHP if I did the run in say 3rd gear when it actually is only 340RWHP in 4th gear. These numbers are only hypothetical. I would think 4th gear (1:1) would be the most accurate gear. Is my assumption correct? What gear do you all recommend so I can properly compare with other HybridZ cars? I do realize that all chassis dynos are different and are really for proving HP and torque improvements. My estimation is that most chassis dynos would vary between 10 and 15% on the same car. Regards,

I just bolted up an 88 300ZXT Clutch LSD diff to my stock 77 halfshafts. All you have to do is pop out the 300ZX CV side flanges and put in the 280Z R200 halfshaft flanges. There are no special mods required. The two parts on the left side of the picture look just like my stock 77 R200 side flanges. The part on the right looks just like my 77 R200 pinion flange.

Mike, I agree that the Ford Motorsport T-5 is much stronger. I believe it's rated to about 350ft lbs of torque. I also would like to know the Ford unit could benefit from the the Nissan bearing retainer mod. My understanding is that the production version of this trans only came in a 1993 Mustang Cobra with the 5.0 Liter. I've yet to find a used one anywhere. All the yards just want to sell me a the GT version. Later

Great info!!!! Thanks Jeff.

Hi all, I was offered a potentially sweet deal on new turbo for my Z. I am friends with a local Audi/VW/BMW tuner shop. that does custom turbo kits and EFI's. They have an extra dual ball bearing GT58 turbo that they offered to at cost. All their turbos are done by Innovative so I'm confident it's a quality unit. Below is a list of my engine specs. The turbo I currently run is a Jim Wolf Sport 400 AKA T04E 50Trim Compressor with a 10 blade stage 5 wheel - .63 AR turbine housing. It spools very quick, but doesn't have room for big HP. Is a GT58 too big for my setup? I don't want a car built only for top end power. I'd like full boost in by at least 3K if possible. The car will be used on the weekends for road trips to the beach, autocrossing, drag racing and a track day at PIR occasionally. Someday I'd like to make 500 flywheel HP or more and I know my current turbo is wrong for that goal. Am I asking too much? Do I need to settle for a car that does one thing great, but not both? Thanks 1982 L28ET Block 2999cc 87.5 bore 83mm stroke Crossdrilled and balanced diesel crank 7.6:1 JE Pistons Full floating wrist pins SpeedPro Plasma Moly rings Race prepped late L24 rods ARP Rod & Main bolts ARP Cyl Head studs O ringed block Mildly ported P90 head with backcut valves ISKY 490 turbo camshaft with Crane springs N42 Non EGR Intake with major porting Weber 60mm Tbody Nissan competition oil pump Scottie downpipe with 3 inch mandrel exhaust Maxima hi flow water pump Electromotive Tec3 EFI TurboXS BOV 440cc injectors - Will go bigger when needed NPR IC with 2.5" inlet & 3"outlet - in process Custom fuel rail with adj FPR - in process Walbro 255 lph fuel pump - in process External Tial wastgate - in process Blitz SBC Type R boost controller - in process

The Datsun T-5 I was referencing was the Borg Warner trans that came in the 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo. The early Datsun transmission bellhousings will not bolt up to a T-5. Another thought I had was whether the Ford Motorsport T-5 still needs modifications done. I've read though many websites regarding the T-5 and there seems to be several aftermarket tricks or parts that can be added to further strenthen this transmission. I've heard of a shop that believes the factory T-5's are setup with too much clearance in the gearsets, bearings or whatever. This is just a point to ponder...... who knows if it's valid. My ultimate goal is to be able to regularly drag race my car without breaking the transmission. Later,

Hi all, I am planning on starting a project to install a Ford Motorsport T-5 in my 77z L28ET. I've done some research on this and it's the same transmission that came in the 93 Mustang Cobra. Summit Racing sells it new in their 5.0 Liter section. Among the Ford folks it is known to the strongest of the T-5's. The trans should bolt up to the Datsun T-5 bellhousing, but I will need several other mods to make this work. I'm confident of everything except the length and size of the input shaft. I'm not a machinist and have never rebuilt a manual transmission. Is the input shaft something that could be put on a lathe and machined to my desired specs? This all assumes I will need metal removed rather than added. Thanks,

Thanks for the advice guys. My exhaust manifold is ceramic coated and I have a ceramic coated heat shield between the compressor and the manifold except for a 1" section that was too close to the manifold. Bottom line is my heat soak problem isn't as bad as I might have portayed on my earlier post. Either way I need to fix the hot spot on the compressor. If I add a spacer then my downpipe and exhaust will hit. The only option is probably to add a strip of heat wrap in the area of concern. Best regards,

My buddy did 226mph at Bonneville in a 280ZX turbo with a diesel crank. Does that count?

I'm just trying to get to fifty so I'm not a jr anymore.....

I have a JWT Sport 400 turbo which supposedly has the same compressor housing as the Sport 450. I have 1/16 of an inch between the stock L28ET exhaust manifold and the compressor housing. Maybe it's just a casting inconsistancy? Just my .02c,

Nigel is correct about the RX7 injectors being 440cc. For some reason the Mazda folks seem to believe they are 460cc. I purchased 2 sets of (4) for my 77z. I had them all cleaned and flowed then picked the best (6). They all flowed 440cc @43.5 psi. All my injectors have red tops with p/n 19550-1350 on the side. The way I got around the pintle caps being 1mm too big was to sand the plastic down until they slid easily into the manifold. Each injector took about 200 turns on the sand paper , but in the end it was worth it. Regards

Bump

Hi all, I'm curious what boost levels people are able to run on pump gas. I'd like to safely be able to go as high as 15psi once my new intercooler is complete. Regards,

clint78z, Are you saying the T04B 60-1 compressor is not recommended as a hybrid with a T3 turbine? I was looking at this as an upgrade path but wanted to keep my current T3 .63 A/R Stage??? turbine.

Hi yo2001, It's easy to get all the different turbo models mixed up. There is a T61 and a 60-1. They are different compressor wheels, but have similar maps. Regarding my setup, the Tec3 is a great fit for a Z car. It's basically a Tec2 with a few more bells and whistles and more intuitive software. I'm very happy so far, but it was extremely expensive. My ability to tune and adjust the EFI seem infinite which is a good thing to me. As for the JWT "Sport 400" turbo, it spools very quickly and supports a decent amount of HP. If I had to do it all over again I'd probably should have gone with a T04B 60-1 or T04E 60. The wastegate was another matter. When I built the car I wasn't a "HybridZ" member and didn't know anyone who had experience with adding an external wastegate on the stock exhaust manifold. Instead, I chose to modify the stock wastegate to support more HP. I actually line bored the turbine housing wastegate vent hole then fabricated a larger flapper valve. So far it has worked well. I don't have a electronic boost controller yet so the jury is still out. What's your guess on the turbine wheel on my setup? I won't hold you to it.

Hello all, I've been following the technical side of this thread closely and it seems there may be some misunderstanding about the compressor wheels. As I understand it the 60-1 is a T04B compressor wheel where the 57 or 60 is a T04E wheel. As I look at the compressor map for the 60-1 wheel it certainly supports a higher max HP/airflow, 65lbs/min versus 50lbs/min with a T04E 60 trim. My observation is that the 60-1 is less efficient through the map than the T04E series, basically small efficiency islands. Maybe this is over analyzing, but maybe it also means the T04E 60 trim is a better fit for a engine up to say 450HP. My estimation is the T04E will have less turbo lag and a lower intake charge temp than it's T04B equivalent up to 450 flywheel hp. This is only bench racing as I have little real time experience. My car has a T04E 50 Trim with a "secret" turbine wheel. It's a Jim Wolf "Sport 400". Unfortunately they would not divulge any details on the turbine wheel. I'm guessing it's a stage 3 or better. JWT is confident it will support 400 flywheel HP, but I haven't been able to put it to the test yet. It spools much faster than a stock L28ET. For those folks who want the BIG hp the 60-1 or T series would be a better choice. Just my .02C

I was able to source new OEM rockers from Arizona Z car for $152.00 to my door. I looked everywhere and that was the best price I could find. Here's the link. http://www.arizonazcar.com Regards,

Hi all, I finally bought my new camshaft for my Z. Based on several people's positive feedback I went with the ISKY 490 lift turbo cam. I called ISKY and was surprised to actually talk to Ron Iskenderian in person. He seemed knowledgeable about the L28 and turbo profiles. He gave me two options. They are both the same cams that are in the catalog except they use a split profile. The cam he recommended has the L-490 model on the intake and the L-480 model on the exhaust but with 114 lobe sep. I could have also picked the L-480 intake / L-475 exhaust, but he said that cam is done around 6000 rpm which is less than I wanted. The cam and keepers cost me $214.00 not including shipping. I thought that was a reasonable price. That price plus the excellent customer service was more than I could refuse. Now I'm wondering where I can get a decent price on rocker arms. The best I can do from Nissan is 377.40.... Any idea's? Thanks!

TimZ and 240Z Turbo, Hmmm, I've never experienced what it feels like to have turbo drop out of it's efficiency range. I stand corrected.. Personally I've always thought my problem of having power drop off was camshaft related. Wouldn't a stock cam also contribute somewhat to this problem? Strangley my current 3.0L L28 and a TO4E 50 trim/T3 Stage3-.63 A/R turbo setup peaks power at a lower RPM than a stock 83 280ZXT I used to have. Can a 60-1 "B" wheel be put in my "E" compressor housing? It's a Jim Wolf Sport 400. I've always thought the TO4E 60 trim should be my next step up. I regret not starting big from the beginning.. Regards,