jgkurz

Speeder, Were you able to use rods longer than 133mm? Personally I wish I could have put in some longer rods and maybe designed more static compression then my 7.6:1. Sounds like you'll be running by the end of the summer. I'm on the same schedule with my upgrades. I'll cross my fingers for you. Regards,

Hey Speeder, What's the deal with sectioning your struts. Is this something I might want to consider? I just bought new Tokico's. Is it too late for me? Thanks. P.S. How's the 3.0 liter coming?

I am currently building my own "O" ring fuel rail using the standard billet rail you can get from Electomotive or Arizona Speed and Marine. The rail usually runs about $12.00 per foot. You will need to either weld or thread fittings on the end of the rail for hoses and the fuel pressure regulator. I'm using a Paxton universal type and screwing it directly to the end of the rail. It looks just like the Aeromotive style. Next you will need to drill and ream the rail to fit the "O" ring injectors. The key here is to get the injector spacing correct when drilling the rail. Once the drilling is complete you will need to use a reamer to clean up the surface so the rings don't leak. The final hole should be about .020 smaller than the diameter of the o-ring. This is according SDS's tech notes. For mounting the rail I'm bending some aluminum strips then welding to the rail. I am using the same three mounting points as the stock rail. To go from a completely stock L28ET rail and injectors to the new rail, rebuilt 450cc injectors, New FPR, New fuel filter, AN fittings and hose cost me about $500.00. I'm using DSM style injectors with pintle caps self modified for my Datsun intake. The next step will be to go to 680cc injectors when I want to start making big HP. http://store.yahoo.com/azspeed/fuinco1.html http://www.getfuelinjected.com/efi_parts.html

tickwon, The NGK BPR7ES-11 is a colder plug than the BPR6ES-11. I have always been told that a high boost Z will like colder plugs not hotter. As for ordering, I assume I could just special order from my local car parts store. Thanks for the feedback on the Iridium's. Anyone else?

From feedback I read on a previous post I've decided to try NGK heat range "7" sparkplugs. Does anyone have experience using NGK's Iridium plugs? I was considering the platinum BPR7EVX-11 until I saw the Iridium's. Thoughts?

As usual, thank you Scottie for your thorough reply. I am going to run a Blitz Dual SBC Type R controller with my dual port setup to go over 12psi. I'd rather do that than adjust the spring tension on the diaphram.

That's how I understand it exactly. Basically it's suppose to do a better job of keeping the WG from bleeding exhaust until the boost controller allows it to open.

The Spec model I bought is a SN323. It has a sprung 6-puck disk. I'm going to be using an Assco 240mm aluminum flywheel. The whole setup should be running in late August. http://www.speclutches.com

Tim, I sent $ to the above PayPal for Al.

You need to measure from the pinion flange on the diff to the center of the front ujoint. By center I don't mean the middle of the cross, but the center of the end caps. Make sure you pull the yoke out of the trans 3/4" before measuring. Rumor has it that about an 1" needs to be cut of the T-5 driveline to fit in an S30 car. You should measure to be sure.

I am installing the same Spec clutch in my Z. Unfortunately they require a 400 mile break-in period before you can put any real power to it. Oh well. I'll play be the rules if it means it won't slip under 20 PSI of boost.

Hypothetically if peak torque was at 4500RPM and peak HP was at 6500RPM where should you shift? I've also had difficulty understanding this question when transmission gear ratios are factored in. Typically when drag racing I shift a couple hundred RPM above my peak HP so it drops back into the powerband.

Speeder or anyone, I'm about to install my new Turbonetics dual port wastegate actuator and was wondering what the default boost level is. For example, if I didn't run a boost controller what PSI would the wastegate open? My stock Nissan unit opened about 6PSI. Thanks

Well as it turns out my new driveline isn't what I expected. When I took it in they said they could find a T-5 yoke and Neapco flange that would work with the Spicer 1310 u-joints. WRONG.... What I ended up with was a driveline with new yoke and new Neapco flange that matches my larger R200 LSD pinion flange. They had to use Nissan style u-joints. The total cost was 279.64. Ugggg!! Oh well. I doubt if I'd ever break it.

Al, Sorry to hear about your son. Our thoughts are with you and your family. I hope someday we can meet at PIR again when you have another Z. Best of luck to you. Regards

My Dad runs a C4 with a trans-brake in his 427FE 69 Mach1 Mustang. It run's low 9's on 11.5 slicks and still has a full interior. So far it's held together. FWIW, the C4 is worth about .3 sec in the 1/4 mile over a C6.

You're right. I won't be launching as hard as you. WOW! I'll let everyone know how things turn out with the new driveshaft. What transmission do you run to hold that kind of launch?

JeffP, you are correct about the pinion flange u-joint being able to use a spicer 1310. That's what I am going to use on the rear u-joint. My problem right now is that my driveline shop can't find a yoke for my Datsun T-5 that will support the Spicer 1310. For now it looks like I'll be running a 1310 on the back and a Nissan on the front.

Hi all, I recently called Kevin at Majestic Turbo to discuss upgrading my compressor wheel to a 60-1. He's a heck of nice guy and gave me a decent price for the upgrade. He suggested I also upgrade to their compressor wheel "bullet" nut. This is a aerodynamic nut that secures the compressor wheel to the shaft. Kevin said this improves flow. Is anyone using this bullet nut? Do you think it's worth the expense?

Thanks Tim. I should have searched on NTK instead of LSU.

Any of you EFI guru's using the newer Bosch LSU4 wideband O2 sensor yet? This sensor and the NTK unit are suppose to be the most accurate available. My Tec3 now supports these sensors, but Electromotive is still in Beta testing. Cheers,

Lockjaw, If I remember correctly you have a JWT Sport 450. Correct? Thanks

Rick, For me the spacer doesn't present a problem for my IC but for my Scottie downpipe. If I move the turbo out 1/4 inch then I will probably have interference problems in the transmission tunnel. My T-5 is going in now so I'll be able to check the fit soon. Who did the custom work on your turbo?

Are you guys running a .60 A/R T04E compressor housing with a spacer?

Hi folks, I have always assumed that my JWT Sport 400 used a .60 A/R compressor housing. After closer inspection I noticed mine is a .50 A/R. Is that the size on your JWT turbo also? Assuming the larger .60 A/R would increase the external size of the housing I don't know how it would fit on the L28ET without a spacer. I currently have 1/8" clearance from my exhaust manifold. Thanks,