jgkurz

What cam are you running? If you have the stock cam your peak power dropping off after 5000RPM is probably on par. Without a doubt, 3 inch exhaust would have made more power at a higher RPM. By the way.... you obviously have some traction problems with 350ft/lbs on tap. Just my .02C

TimZ, For me it's either N20 or Nitrous... As I read your posts and look further into controlling N20 with my Tec3 and it probably would need to be a "switched on" enrichment rather than the precide metering I had hoped for. Like you say, I could use a GPO pull to ground to close a relay. The relay would then activate an Analog input with a preset enrichment. This wouldn't be any better than a wet system. Oh well...it was a good discussion. Do you think the O2 sensor could properly sense A/F ratio if I were to try an run in closed loop with the above setup? Currently I run closed loop from 1K RPM up. By the way, are you able to get your car to idle at 14.7 with your Tec2? Thanks!!!

What I'm puzzled about is that some engines are able to idle well at Stoich. The below link has a response from BLKMGK that claims an idle at 14.7 or leaner if desired. I believe he runs a newer Toyota engine. http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=16;t=000980 I've also talked to some folks running late technology engines and they seem to have no problem setting up the EFI to idle at Stoich. Is this because of variable cam timing, head design or some other factor? I'd like to take a poll. Those with programmable EFI's and L6's, what A/F ratio do you idle your engine at?

Hi all, For some reason I have never been able to get my car to idle at an A/F of 14.7:1. It seems to idle smoothly and have better off idle throttle response at 12.5 to 13:1. I'm using the wideband O2 sensor in my Tec3, but I'm not sure how accurate it is until I get my car dynoed with a Horiba. Is this common with an L6? My cam is stock and I'm pulling almost 20 inches of vacuum at 700RPM idle. Thanks

Just for the sake of excess, let's say I'm going to use a 75hp shot or above. I believe I can handle as much as 72lb/min injectors on my L6 with the Tec3. If this is the case, and I can manage my A/F mixture properly, why would I want a wet system? I'm may be off base, but it seems like I could have more accurate control over my A/F mixture with a dry system. Thoughts? By the way, I've never been able to get my car to idle smoothly at anything leaner than 13:1 A/F ratio. Regards

Hi all, Someday I'm planning to add nitrous oxide to my Z. At this point I'm not sure which system or HP level I will chose. I'll probably go with a dry setup and extremely large injectors. My current turbo will support a maximum of 400 flywheel HP. If I'm already making close to 400HP I'm wondering if adding nitrous would necessitate a larger turbo? I'm not an expert, but in theory I should not need a larger turbo. If I understand how nitrous works, the additional power is from being an oxidizer. This means N2O actually adds oxygen to the combustion burn. So if I'm correct, adding more a larger turbo would probably not be required. Am I in left field? Thanks,

I am running RX7 440CC injectors in my Z. I believe they are the same style as DSM injectors. They were very cheap compared to aftermarket injectors and seem to work well. The only obstacle was the slightly larger plastic pintle caps which I sanded to accommodate my L28 intake. Second were the "O" ring tops. This means a new fuel rail or larger hoses clamped to the old rail will be needed. The late 80's RX7 injectors came in three different sizes that I'm aware of, 440CC, 550CC and 680CC. Mine were sold as 460CC, but when I had them cleaned and tested they only came up to 440CC @ 43.5psi fuel pressure. The 550 and 680 units may have a similar discrepancy. My 440CC injectors are made by Nippon-Denso and are low impedance. They have red tops with p/n 19550-1350 on the side. Good luck. <img border="0" alt="[2thumbs]" title="" src="graemlins/2thumbs.gif" />

Hi Jeff, I have one of Scottie's downpipes coated with the Jet Hot chrome finish and it's holding up great. No flaking or dulling. I don't have an EGT, but I know it's gotten hot on those summer days while driving in the curves. . My turbine is also coated, but with a black high temp coating. It too has held up well. I'm not sure it's really done anything for the thermal efficiency of my turbo, but it looks better than rusted metal.

Hi Ivan280zt, I asked a similar question recently on the EFI forum. The link below should get you to the thread. http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=20;t=000311#000000

The Tec3 can be had for well under 3K depending on the parts you already have and the work you want to do yourself. Sias Tuning and Top End seemed to have the best prices when I was shopping. I decided to buy from a shop near my house for the local support. Thanks for the info

I ran a 13.7 and 105.36MPH on the stock pump and injectors. Strangley it rev'd slower above 5500RPM. I think I know why now...

Great info...Thanks. Using 90 liters/hr I converted that to 1500CC/min then divided by 6 for the cylinders. This equals 250cc/min for each injector. Assuming 250cc/min per injector flow ability, the safe flywheel HP would be roughly 239. This is according to my Electromotive Tec3 software. At 13psi I'm pretty sure my engine will make more than 239HP. Looks like it's time to start pinching pennies for a new fuel pump. Best Regards,

Hi all, I recently upgraded to larger injectors, but am still running the factory turbo fuel pump. When the "Z car" fund is full again I'll probably buy a Bosch or MSD pump. In the mean time I'd would like opinions on the limitations of the factory pump. Has anyone found the magic boost pressure where the pump couldn't keep up the flow? Thoughts?

Thanks TimZ!! You were right. I couldn't find the thread. Just to clarify, are you using a 280ZXT knock sensor or a later Nissan type? The 280ZXT sensor has two leads which I'm not sure how I would hook to my one lead Tec3. Regards

I'm going to try and use the finned cover for a couple reasons. The extra oil will provide better cooling for "track days" and it looks cooool. Has anyone actually done the modifications to the finned cover for installation in a 280z? I'd like to avoid the labor of mocking up the diff in the car if possible. Thanks!!!

Thanks everyone for your responses.

You guys are awesome!!!! Thanks

Do I need to modify the mustache bar or the finned cover?

Hi all, I need a new style knock sensor for my 82 L28ET block. As far as I can tell the factory knock sensor is not compatible with my Tec3. Has anyone been able to install a new style sensor in the original block location? Electromotive uses GM type sensors, but I am willing to try anything that would screw into my block with modification. Thanks

I recently purchased an 88 300ZXT non-viscous LSD and would like advice on what brand and viscosity of gear oil I should use with this differential. I prefer synthetic, but will use what ever is best. Lastly, if I swap the side flanges and the pinion flange will it bolt right into my 77z? I would like to keep the finned cover if possible. Thanks much

I run a T04E 50 trim with a modified Nissan .63 turbine housing and wastegate. The turbo is actually a JWT Sport 400. The boost comes on quick and seems much improved over the stock L28ET. On paper and according to JWT it will do 400 flywheel HP. The compressor housing clears the exhaust manifold by about a 1/16. There is bump on my compressor housing that prevents indexing the outlet much past the 2 o'clock position. I also had to relocate the PCV valve on my N42 intake. I'm not positive, but I think the PCV on the P90 intake would clear without any problems. I chose the 50 trim because I thought it was better suited for autocrossing and it would offset my low compression. My static compression is 7.6:1 so bottom end power is somewhat hindered. Early spoolup helps significantly. I may go to the 60 trim wheel at some point, but for now the bottom end power is more useable for everyday driving. I took the car to the drag strip and at 11.5 psi I ran a 13.7 and 105.36MPH. With me in the car it weighs 2900lbs exactly. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that equates to 290HP at the flywheel. Unfortunatley, this was with stock injectors and no intercooler.

I would like to install a more modern knock sensor in the factory location of my L28ET block. I'm using an aftermarket fuel injection that doesn't seem to be compatible with the original two wire version. Any ideas?

Thanks Mike!!

Hi All, I just purchased an 88 300ZX clutch type LSD for my "traction challenged" 77z. I've searched the forums for answers to my questions, but haven't found what I'm looking for. Here's what I an trying to find out. 1.) How do I tell if the clutch pack is still in acceptable condition? 2.) Does the diff need to be completely dissassembled to replace the clutch pack? 3.) What needs to be done to use this LSD in my 77 280z with the original halfshafts? (I will go to CV shafts when the z car fund is full again) Thanks much!!!

I recently installed a new Centerforce Dual Friction clutch on a freshly surfaced 225mm factory flywheel. At 11.5 psi it slipped enough to almost free rev the engine. When I turned the boost below 10 psi it stopped slipping. I'm guessing the clutch gave out at around 280 flywheel HP. A 240mm clutch would provide better results. I think Centerforce says they can hold 90% more power than stock, so in theory the 240mm flywheel should hold 342 HP. I'm not sure about this, but I think an aluminum flywheel requires a clutch with more clamping force. This might mean 342 HP would go to say 300 HP capability. Let me know if you hear differently.