jeromio

Right - in the LED "bulb" itself, you need a resistor. But the resistance of this unit relative to that of a standard bulb - I don't think that matters.

I've seen those headlights forsale a couple times on ebay. Although I don't recall those having that "foglight" lower bit. Pretty snarfty looking. I'd love to see a shot of them on at night. I ain't no EE by any stretch, but I don't see how resistance would be a necessity with a light except in terms of lowering it as much as possible. The only place on a car elec. system that I know of where a certain level of resistance is required is for the alternator lamp on some systems, such as the pre 99 GM (but like 94,95-98 or something, not everything 98 and older). I'll be trying the LED replacement bulbs whenever my current bulbs burn out.

I had a very nice bender just like the one Tim showed. Snapped that sucka. Just say no to stainless....

I agree with Scottie et al and call BS on this mess.

Yep. I saw all of those listings and many more. Thanks though.

I guess there must not be. Maybe I'm searching the wrong ebay. What I found were mostly mechanical, mostly 2 1/16. Lots of NAWS and BOOST gauges along with plenty of 5 inch ped mount tachs with giant shift lights. Often, as is the case with many other categories on ebay, I am finding items forsale with bids up past retail. If I'm gonna pay retail - or even within 10-20% of retail, I'd rather just deal with retail - like Jegs or some such where I can have assurance of support/returns, etc. Electric, 2 5/8 gauges - I found about 4, all bid too high. Electric speedos - I found one, with the reserve set "a bit below retail". Screw that. I prolly will end up getting a tach via ebay though. Seems to be a large market for them.

I searched for a few days, but 2 5/8 electric gauges are apparently not widely used. Did see 2 Sport Comps (oil and fuel), but they were only $5-10 cheaper than new ones. The speedo is the real money cruncher - $200. This hobby is just no savings-account-friendly...

Once again the search button suffers from lack of use. C5 LS6 != 454. C5 LS6 == LS1. Go here, enter "LS1" in the keyword box and hit the search button on the bottom.....

Ouch. I just placed an order for 4 of the 5 gauges. Suffered a $350 body-blow to the wallet. I'll make due without a tach for the time being. I ordered the Pro-Comp, black-faced gauges.

You rule. What do I owe you? If you want, you can send me a "Request Money" via paypal using my paypal (at) jeromio.com address. Or just lemme know the amount and your paypal address. Thanks.

Hrm. Well, since apparently NorthCarolina is now the Monsoon state (so far we are REALLY making up for the drought last year), I'm gonna wanna resolve this. I think the only way that a bumpkin like myself can do that is to take the sucker apart. I'm gonna see about grabbing a wiper motor from the pick and pull to pick and pull apart - with a continuity meter. The $20 or so will be worth it to not have to tear my car apart. The way the description in the manual reads, the wipers have a separate Parked position that is lower down. I just wish they would've broken out the wiper motor and switch diagrams separately. Trying to trace those lines all over the place on the whole car diagram is impossible. I do like their description of the delay system. I think I'll toss this Maxima black box that I have. The manual describes something that sounds buildable. If I have this right, they use a Capacitor and a potentiometer. The pot limits the juice to the cap. When the cap is fully charged, it sends voltage to the motor which then turns and exhausts the cap. But the park mechanism on the wiper keeps it going. It doesn't actually go to full park though, it goes to the "running" park. Anyway, since the position of the motor has changed, there's an open that keeps power to the motor until it sweeps back to park and then it shuts off. And then the cycle repeats itself. I think that's all adaptable to this zippy Maxima switch. The On for interval will run it and keep it open for Park 2, off sends it all the way back home. The knob on the staulk may already have a Pot in it, I dunno. It has 4 different rest positions, so it may control a 4 way switch? I only have 2 undefined wires on the wiper switch though (orange ones), so I doubt that. Just need to figure out the pinouts for the wiper motor....

I have a temporary solution, so I'm not in a terrible rush - either way is fine with me. I really appreciate this man - I know I personally hate going to the Post Office.

Cool - thanks. I actually put the hood on this weekend. First pass had it misaligned and the safety latch got caught on the bracket. Freaked me out, but I managed to shake it loose. Hood has been off for almost 2 years! Luckily it's way too large an item for even me to misplace....

So far Jegs seems to have the best prices. Anyone know of a better source? Looks like Autometer is the only option for electronic gauges in 5" and 2 5/8". $450 for speed, tach, oil, water, fuel. Plus shipping of course. Too bad no one sells a set for a Datsun. Make that a set for a Datsun with an LS1 in it.... I really, really did not plan on buying gauges, but my frankensteinian FBody instrument panel hack-job doesn't seem to be working out. So it's time for another "car payment".

Be brave. Just get out the sawzall and cut out that whole shebangaroonie. I did air chisel and regretted it. I ended up having to patch up many holes where the chisel slipped and tore thru the metal. Ended up using an angle grinder - very tedious. I have a 71. But I tell ya, it would have taken much less time if I had just cut out the entire section that had the trans mounts and welded back in new sheet. Would've looked better in the end too.

Has anyone re-wired their wipers? I have this Maxima switchgear so I have re-done the whole shebang. I have a 75 shop manual which has a description and a mini diagram. Desc. is really hard to follow. Also, 75 had interval, my 71 doesn't. I do have the Maxima interval box. At least I think it is the interval box - it must be some kind of mody control module with lots of functionalitity because it has about 20 wires coming out of it in 2 connectors. Not much hope of figuring that out without a book. Anyway, I have the wipers working - sort of. I have 5 wires coming out of the wiper motor. I have one that seems to be 12v+ for a relay in there, another that seems to be the neg. for the relay, another that is grounded when the wipers are parked, and then a low speed wire and a highspeed wire. So, I have the 12v relay wire going to accessory power, the low speed to the lowspeed of the switch, hi to hi, and the "main" wire of the switch (black on the maxima switch) going to ground. I then have the low speed switch wire also connected to the neg. wire of the relay. I can hear it click when I turn the switch to low speed. It works, but strangely. Keep in mind I don't have that "park" wire connected. I can turn the wipers on, both speeds, and then when I turn them off, there's a pause, and then the wipers sort of reverse and then go to parked. Kinda cloodjy. If I did have interval hooked up, it'd be messy - the wipers would be on, arms woud move a sconch, and then they'd reverse and park. Depending on how long the On of the interval was. There's gotta be a better way. And since I don't have the 5th wire connected, I must have this wired up wrong. Anyone done this?

I ended up taking the alt in to a parts store and having it tested. They said it was bad (shocker) and I ordered another one. Seems to be working fine now though.

Oh yeah, I would hafta quit. (Okay, that's not true - but my phone bill would be maxed out (I can use my cell to access the site in a pinch))

Every time I do a build or have to reflash software to the hardware, there's a big 10-20 minute wait. That wait is either filled with docs, talks, meetings or hits to hybridz.org. For the last coupla hours of work today, that last option was out. Felt like I was kickin or somethin. Shivers.... Glad we're back!

You missed the disussion we had above. He's got the stock FBody bracket (on the passenger side) modified to allow the compressor to fit. This is the same thing I am doing. I started to mod my bracket, but set it aside. I don't even have a condenser yet anyway. Also, the stock manifolds in my install (I'm sure much like BriGuy's) clear the steering shaft by about 1/4 inch. I guess I should take some more photos of my install to compete. Although I doubt anyone will be following in my footsteps with the modded crossmember. I am close - very close. Started hooking up my guages Sunday - got too damn cold though (couldn't feel my fingers after awhile). All the wire connectors are soldered on - just have to connect the guage "pods" to the circuit board and then calibrate them. Of course that will take much longer than it should because I will undoubtedly run into some wiring gremlins along the way. I am also crossing my fingers on the oil pressure thing. Really really do not want to have to take the motor apart. Really. Then it's hood re-install and test drive. I also need to cover up the spare tire hole (wish I had a plasma torch!), then a good thorough inspection. I have already noticed a slight leak at the front right brake line (gonna have to reflare that one).

Another counterpoint - I spent $35 on a roll of SS line. It's in the junkpile now, along with my $35 bender (which broke). Very, very, very difficult to work with. I ended up going with aluminum. I didn't do any flares though. I used ferule connections. My lines are pretty well secured, so I'm not worried.

Can't beat that. Paypal?

HEY! - hold on a minute. You absolutely cannot finish yours before I finish mine. Wouldn't be fair. Technically, I did drive mine. But only around the block. That is a really nice shop. Looks like you have your motor centered left to right - maybe pass. side by a 1/4 inch or so (using photoshop and the pulley to radiator hole measurements). How'd you get that A/C compressor to fit? Didja modify the bracket? I dig that OEM relay box. Is that from an FBody? I tried getting an FBody upper rad hose - but nobody had one to sell me. Had to cludge one together.

I am a total dumbass. I cannot find my hood latch cable. But, I do not wish to further punish myself by paying $39 for a new one. Does anyone have any good boneyard or McGyver alternatives?

That is Fugly.