jeromio

A/C, A/C, A/C! Whadja do to the bracket? Did you get it machined, do it yerseff? I started grinding away at mine, but I think I need to shave a total of 1/2 inch and it's going really slow. I am taking material off both the engine block side and the compressor side (1/4 inch each). Also, any tips on hoses, fittings, condensor, evaporator? I bought a camaro condensor - too big. Wasted $35. Oh well, I guess I can put it back up on ebay.

That is incredible. You are one ambitious dude.

Where'd you go, Charlotte, Atlanta, someplace else?

I have a 55 Ford F100 forsaken project truck. That vehicle has a gigantic engine bay. However, the 429 in there uses it all up. There was a guy who had a 240Z drag car with a 429 but the link is broken. There is a guy who has a 1st gen Rx7 with a 460. You would take on such a project on because - You have the motor already (someone gave it to you?) - You like a pointless challenge - You are crazy (like me). - You lost a bet - All of the above, plus you are stubborn. The one cool thing about the 429 I have (aside from its being part of the 15 year running joke of my truck project) is that you can stick your arm thru the Wiend intake I have on it. It's all about the BIG.

What's your plan for the front suspension?

If you go to the top (sticky) post on the Conversions board over at ls1tech.com, there's a looooong list of various LS1 swaps. This one looks crazy: The 3rdGen RX7 is my favorite though. Those are such nice looking, lightweight cars. There's a pretty long post by one guy who was fed up with the turbo wankel. He claims that the weight of the car post LS1 swap is really close to stock. All the turbo plumbing and such apparently adds up.

That does look mighty nice. Is the old hole welded up? Filled with lead, bondo?

Oh. I thought I saw a camo painted Scout in the background. Maybe a neighbors...? Anyway, just tryna be cute.

While you're at it, try the Scout rims.....

Yeah, at this point the hands off part has tremendous appeal. I am severely time crunched. But I'm also severely cash crunched. I'm gonna have to wait on this one.....

Yeah, $550. Plus I need the diag. software. I currently have ATAP Generic, which leaves out many params. To actually do anything to the tune I would need EFILive at an additional $250 bringing me to $800. That would still leave me scratching my head some more trying to get everything straight and not having the wideband or the dyno. Urrgh. I mean, he was sort of marketing that $250 cost as being access to LS1Edit in his shop, which isn't too bad. I mean, the place is really close by. But then I'm still at $350 for the dyno and the labor.

Have any of you guys had your car Dyno tuned? I know Gary did. My car is running really, really bad in closed loop. Idle is all over the place, dies occasionally, runs WAAY rich. It runs fine in openloop (O2s disconnected). So, I could just do that. However, it turns out there is a shop here in Durham that has a dyno and will do a Dyno tune on the car - for $600. So, is that a reasonable fee? He said that $250 of that is a license for my VIN for LS1edit (the PCM tuning software) and that if the car every needs minor adjustments late on, it'll be free. (Strange that he doesn't have the Tuner license for LS1Edit - maybe he does and this is how he is paying for it?) I like the idea of getting the car optimally tuned, I just don't think I can afford it. On the other hand, I don't know that I like the idea of just driving it around in openloop. Apparently there are some guys running mod'd motors that disconnect the O2s too, but then they also have LS1Edit and have the fuel maps, etc. optimized for this. My car seems to run pretty rich with no O2s. Which sort of makes me think I may have too much fuel pressure which might possibly be causing my closed loop problems - I dunno. Tried finding a fuel pressure guage locally, but no one carries one that goes as high as 60psi.

I dunno if it does or not - I doubt it though. Just get the whole shebang, strut, hub, rotor and all from the salvage yard.

I nominate Afshin for King of Grammar and WordSmithery. I am posting (again) here because something just occurred to me. Not to offend anyone performing or contemplating an RB swap, but damn. I read thru that thing and it is just a magnet for retards (which, BTW Sparky, is dubbed "LD" here in the south which kinda threw me 'til I realized you must've meant LongDistance). So anyway, follow my logic here. The internet is full of retards. It's actually even capable of turning ordinary, intelligent people into retards (but not me of course - I've never ever posted anything retarded on the internet ). Hybridz.org is on the internet. Retards, whether naturally born, internet enhanced or otherwise, are going to make their way here. They seem to like the RB board (well, other boards too, but RB much more so). So, if you get rid of that board, they'll only disperse to the other boards - possibly L6 or whatever 6 board replaces it, possibly Misc Tech - hell, they'll just post a "How much to swap in an RB" question to the Chevy board. Point is, just leave it. Maybe have Bob_H moderate it and he can just spend a few hours a day mocking people or just deleting dumb posts. Or just set the quota/purge_old flag on that board so it doesn't use up disk space and leave it alone. It can be an InternetRetard HoneyPot of sorts. Oooh! Even better. Rename that board to "RB and other all Nissan swaps"! Ha! And Pete and Mike can just completely avoid it and maybe move other obnoxious posts there ala my earlier idea - it'd be just a time delayed delete anyway since that board would only keep posts for 30 days or whatever. We'll all know that it's really the InternetRetard board, a wasteland for obnoxious fools, but perhaps the victims won't catch on.

Hey, um, John? If you look, there next to your post, right under your name, it says "Administrator". So, unless there's some freaky wierd broken-ness with the forum software, I'm thinking you can wack as many moles as you wanna. I must be a bit sadistic too, cuz I too would enjoy that. The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of a "Your post is Stupid" board to move posts to. If nothing else, bored masochists might enjoy reading thru such a board to mock particularly egregarious infractions against common sense. In keeping with the sadism, I've been poking around, looking for examples of this stuff Pete and Mike are referring to and I can't find anything. Did it all get deleted? The closest I came to an argument was the recent discussion about the JSK brake brackets. I mean, true the RB forum is filled with pretty useless posts, but I just could not find any posts in any boards with any kind of bashing in them?

If you have an O2 at steady 100mV then it is either not connected or completely dead. I'm also having problems with my motor - running so bad I can no longer drive it. I'm hoping someone on LS1tech.com can come thru with a magic bullet for me - no decent shops around here to take it to. Odd that your bearing blew out because that exact thing happened to me. Car was up on stands for like 18 monhts while I was ostensibly swapping in the LS1. Had about 2K miles on the bearings as I had recently swapped on new brakes. Damndest thing. I never had smoke out of my hub. My spindle had a scratch on it from broken bearing crap roling around in there. Nothing major though. I did of course have to replace the hub on that side. I can almost guarantee you will have to replace your hub.

We (well, mostly JohnC) sort of started one: http://240z.jeromio.com/faqdraft But it is unfortunately incomplete. Still, there is a great deal of info there. SuperDan had to remove the SearchAllForums due to CPU limitations. However, If we could keep topics in the appropriate forum, the need for a search all would diminish or even vanish.

I agree that active moderation will solve alot of problems. I would personally love to have mod powers here. I would judiciously delete any and all posts that showed a clear lack of Searching. I'd also kill crossposts and blatantly misplaced posts (wrong board). Or if that's considered too harsh (or would possibly generate more work deleting the "Where'd my idiotic post go" posts), add an "Idiotic redundant posts" board and just move all those posts there. On CC, the mods will modify idiotic posts with witty (and extreme), seemingly self deprecating (since they still "appear" to be voiced by the poster) comments. Maybe a bit too harsh, but funny, and effective. Since this is already being discussed here in this thread, I would also like to add my personal opinion that the L series boards should stay. I'd hate to miss updates on Thagard's motor for instance or dyno numbers on Coffey's setup. I mean, we do have at least 2 mods here with L6s.

Actually, mine is welded. The arms are welded to the crossmember. The whole unit does bolt to the car though. I don't have steering interference issues. I did add a motor mount brace that horizontally attaches the front part of each new mount tower to the frame rail(s). Had to weld in some bracing there (with welded nuts on the inner sides). Welding, in other words, is definitely required for this. So you wouldn't be able to just mock it up and drop it off someplace. Fabbing the actual unit is pretty easy though. I made 2 little Nevada shaped pieces out of heavy stock, drilled 3 holes in them, put them on the strut rod cups resting on the lip, clamp, drill holes, bolt up. Then just connect the dots with the arms cut to length. Weld it up. Creating the new mount towers was a little more involved though - driveline alignment. One advantage that has not been brought up: on something like an LT1, the stock accessory (FBody) brackets interfere with the Datsun motor mount towers. So, this would clear up that problem.

Dredging up a good thread to ask a related question. I have yet to get seats/harnesses. No dollars. I ended up buying a used belt to replace the burned one. But, I'd like to get some new, not 30 year old, 3 point belts. Other than JCWhitney, anyone know a source? I really like the Datsun widw style with the multiple adjustments, etc. Saw a guy selling replacement webbing on Ebay, but then I'd have to go thru the hassle of finding a place to sew them up.

The major disadvantage of going it alone in a motorswap is lining things up. With JTR, you can be fairly certain that if you follow the instructions, your driveline will line up pretty close to where it needs to be. Otherwise, you have to do like I did and measure, adjust, measure again, tweak, adjust, etc. in an attempt to ensure proper UJoint phase. All that, and I'm not 100% sure I got it right....

No fabrication there. Just get a McLeod 3/4" Master and it bolts right in. So, you inquired about getting the hydraulics separately? What was the quote?

Well, I for one am getting quite sick of the laziness of posters I've seen creeping in here over the past few months. I'm for remapping the "Post New Topic" button to take people to "Search" instead. They'll think they're posting a question, but really the subject is used as the search term and they get a bunch of answers instead. And why must everything be posted to the Chevy board? "My Z is rusty", "Which rear -end?", "Which brakes?" - all in the Chevy board. (Not to mention being topics that get beat to death) Frustrating. In otherwords: Short fuse equals good. Show no mercy. And thank you.

Well, I hadda pay around $80 for the stock slave and then plenty of time spent scratching my head and modding it. I suppose the brunt of that $600 is for the bell. If they could sell the hydraulics separately for less than $120, I would've bought.

I wish I would've seen this info while I was setting up my T56. Their hydraulics could've saved me many, many headaches.