Mudge
-
Posts
1965 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Mudge
-
-
Buy some 2.5" long grade 5/8 bolts to put in the crank hub (NAPA), take one with you so they can get the correct thread. Once you have these thread these into the crank hub, and find a wrench or something to wedge between that will give you some leverage, and try turning it over.
-
After about 2 minutes of warming up it should hit closed loop, so usually if something is up with the car it will show up in closed loop.
-
i think my tires are 245s (not sure on rim width?!?) im assuming that the big number is the width of the tire, anyone know the relativity of the two? well i have only tested my flares without the welting in but the tires seem to do the trick, although they are bald but imma get some new ones of the same size.
245s would work fine on an 8" wide wheel. 245 is mm, so yes thats the width, the next number would usually be 45/50 if this is on a 16" wheel, thats the profile which is in relation to the width. I believe a tire of this size is going to be 25.6"-26.1" or thereabouts tall.
-
You can, but since only the center is kept, its usually fairly expensive.
-
I'd save $12 a month between 87 and 91 (California), if I were getting 20 MPG @ 300 miles a week. So for myself, its not worth it, I'd rather have what horsepower, compression and timing I can, on an older perhaps milder SBC, then no biggy if it runs fine with a little timing pulled.
-
-
Mine is more a tightwad than I am, she is the one good at saving money. She does have a big block 4 speed Nova, and a 92 911 5 speed though, but she got both of 'em cheap.
-
Speed costs money, "How fast do you want to spend?"
-
Always wanted a bike, but still doing the car thing.
-
Either leave the head alone, or pull timing if you need to, simple as that.
-
Sounds good to me, if the block is really a 95 then it will already have the OBD I knock sensor, so there should be no problems...
-
Yep, when I found out we could log and tune our own computers (just like you see on the uber cars on TV), wow that is just awesome. Troubleshoot at home with Freescan, log and tune with Freescan/Excel + Tunercat - neat.
-
The block alone would be insanely strong to put up with that kind of abuse, either way it is making SOME kinda power no doubt.
-
Yeah I started my LT1/T56 with out haveing the clutch pedal depressed? My computer was edited already though so maybe that was edited out?
I have no idea, but from what Tim says, something must be missing from the car to make it not care about this, because like when the anti theft stuff dies, the car will not start with this sensor being no good. I am working on my car today so I will take a look how it hooks up (physically, not in depth), I assume its like the brake light switch on a car, just being a "button" pressed or something.
-
You can flash the computer with either a stick or auto tune' date=' [/quote']
How hard is it to do this? What type of equipment is needed? Or can I take it to someone to do this for me, and how much $?
As long as you have a 94/95 I'll do it for free or costs of shipping, so long as I have my car that is
You need Tunercat and a cable, but for your first flash you need to bypass the anti-theft circuit if you were to do it on your own.
Tunercat $69
$EE Def file for Tunercat $20
Cable $65 if you buy fully assembled ( http://www.wotelectronics.com http://www.tunercat.com )
-
We've had several threads about this CRX recently.
-
Could be a vacuum leak, hmm.
-
I thought most of the luxo stuff was Viscous LSD, not clutch pack.
-
Ditto, in re-wiring my car I read that the alternator needs to get a signal to shut off power. This may be the same "stimulated" pulse that tells the ALT to start generating too, dunno. I know this kind of problem has been dealt with on ZCar.com also, so a search should turn up something there. This usually happens to people who upgrade the alt after having had the external regulator before.
-
Could be, when this sensor goes bad the car wont start for us. That one I dont know though, hmm!
-
I'm not a fan of those OEM lights either.
-
Neither could Darius, thats what happens with a light car with some pony.
-
So far as I know the Don Yenko dealership cars only got iron block 427s, the ZL1 however was the aluminum block. I saw Reggie trying to sell one not long ago, but the engine was blown (although included), didn't end up meeting his reserve (Barrett Jackson auctions).
I kinda liked the vinyl tops, but they used a corrosive adhesive (they didn't know until later), and they usually are seen nowdays with either a rotted roof, or painted with the vinyl removed.
-
Oh damn, charging $250 for a picture of a bodykit??? Thats outrageous and it seems quite obvious he is hoping that someone is STOOPID enough to fall for it.
Please help identify...
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
You have to drag it to the address bar.
I dont believe that downpipe will fit on a first gen Z car, and it seemed to me the second gen was even tighter in that area compared to the turbo swap in my 240Z now. The stock downpipe almost shoots straight down, where yours looks rather deep.