Mudge

PhaTTy, when I look at my own cars, bang for the buck is almost ALWAYS #1, and your going to spend how much on a simple intake system? You are going way, way beyond what is neccessary. For $4000 you could have between a 400-550 HP V8, but going back to the turbo car... I'm not sure what this intake system is your talking about, was it your plan to chop it up to fit onto an L28ET? I am entertained by the idea of a custom intake, but again with bang for the buck in mind, not spending $1000 or more on nothing but bling bling pimpin parts that do nothing in real life. The only times you should look at spending massive dough on components, is when your shooting for top gun HP, and your not looking at anything even on the same planet as top gun. Pay attention to the basics like fuel delivery, figure an air intake system thats improved a bit, get the car running. From there upgrade in pieces, dont forget your intercooler, injectors, fuel pump, work all these things together with the idea of what your grand scheme is for expected HP levels, if you want 400 HP at some point, get the setup for 400 HP and simply play with your fuel pressure to dumb it down and make the car driveable. Without going to an aftermarket computer, a rising rate fuel pressure regulator is the only way I know of to "tune" these cars. I would love to have an aftermarket setup, but they are too much $$$ and I am not looking for uber-pimp horsepower, the most I'd ever shoot for on this engine is probably 350-400 HP. I'm going through the archives to educate myself, I'm only on page 19 (started at the back). There is some good info to dig through, but for our expected meager HP levels look at BASICS, if you start off with dreamy pimp parts the money will be gone very fast, and you wont be much better off, if any better off at all. PUT YOUR IDEAS ON PAPER This really really helps, I can think things in my head pretty well, but I'm sure you know by now that it can be deceptive! Small things add up FAST, and dreams are crushed when put on paper. I am sure that I could easily spend another 50%-250% and only get another 10%-20% performance overall, out of the car. Look at the HP you want, plan out how to get there, and scribble those parts down and get prices.

Except for the tops, look for injectors that look like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33554&item=2406171508&rd=1 The base will plug into the stock manifold, alot of the import turbo cars LOW IMPEDANCE injectors are like this. You will then have to adapt the top, which will probably be O ring, to use some tubing and close them off so they dont leak. From there you will have to figure out how to deal with fuel pressure, you will also have to know what pressure your new injectors are rated at, to calculate what will bring you back to "stoich" like a stock injector. If you just plug on injectors that spit out twice the fuel, for example at the same fuel pressure, then your obviously going to get very poor gas mileage, and your going to wash down the cylinders badly. As for people running high IMP injectors, I dont know how its done, the only SVO injectors that are low imp that I know of are the brown tops from a 4 cylinder turbo car, and possibly from the blown Lightning, but I dont know that for sure. Those however are O ring top and bottom I believe, so I dont know how to make them work without a new manifold, or manifold hacking.

More compression on a turbo car will limit your boost abilities before finding knock (deadly), but give you a bit more bottom end torque. However, these cars do just fine with the torque they have especially being they are so light. So, use the N42 for a reason other than compression.

If you didn't want headers, the turbo setup would not bolt up, since the P90 turbo setup is a rectangular part I'm still not 100% coherant on how headers are being fabbed with rectangular parts, but I haven't made measurements, maybe I will do that later today.

GM actually used a 255/50-16 from the information I found, when I try to match the tire though often I just look at outer diameter though, like 25.6" vs 26.1" or whatever, for example, and try to get them close. Sometimes going to a lower profile tire from the norm will be expensive, so likewise try to find something that you can find commonly in the tire you like, sometimes odd sizes are available from an MFG but only from maybe Michelin or whatever for exotic cars which puts them out of my price range. A 265 should work great on a 9.5" wheel but I may go with a 255, who knows.

N42 or N47? N47 is a round port head, I'm not going to say they suck, but almost everyone sticks with the rectangle exaust port heads, which the turbo manifold will bolt up too, not the round port N47 though. http://www.zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm 3.1 L Stroker Myths and Legends Revealed!

Ok, definately a drag style setup, not a 315/35 17"

10 seconds is tougher, but 11s or 12s yeah, there are NA guys in the 12s. I'm not a big stroker guy, because its so much hassle and money, but you could go that route. If you just want to rebuild it and go with better pistons, shot peened rods etc, you could just go 2.9/3.0L or something, and avoid the stroker issues, then you can put in forged pistons too, then you can go for 400-500 HP or whatever you felt like, so long as its built for it. I'm just going to run a "junkyard" block so to speak, form a donor car, no rebuild here.

Sounds then like it might be a buy, if you think this one is pretty fresh, I think I'd go for it. Supposedly in my area they get stripped pretty fast, at least the turbo, you can bank on wiring and computer going pretty fast thereafter, and so on. It could have been sitting at someones house or on the street for a few years before hand though, thats the only thing I'm kind of thinking of, in terms of how long it may have been sitting. I guess you could look at the tags if the plates are still on? Since plates are the property of the state, I dont know if those even stay on at the yard.

You mean your pulling the oil cooler and the filter at the same time??? If you dont have that blower in the way that sounds KEY, even with it, it almost looks like I could do it from the top but I cannot, from top or bottom with the strap-on I can move about 2" Sounds like I will remove the blower and keep it just incase I need it.

Yeah, for another 1/2" its pretty heft at about $300 for all four. I think the wheels look nicer and that is thier benefit, I forget the weight difference off hand. I heard about them on another board, I dont have alot of feedback honestly. I figure with the Z car being so doggon light I dont expect problems really. Side note, I heard on heavy cars the CCW wheels are flexing dramatically, this is rather dissapointing news, but were talking 3200-3600 pound cars with big race rubber, so again we are fortunate that this is mostly a non-issue.

Only thing I can tell you is thier stub axles are different, I think the viscous LSD cars use only CV jointed half shafts?

I can't help you too much, but the direction I have heard with overall car balance in mind, is no rear sway bar, and stiffer front springs than rear - as opposed to most other Z setups which have stiffer rear springs vs front. Plenty of V8Zers should be able to help you out

If widening wheels wasn't as expensive as getting new ones (close enough), then I'd maybe consider it, then again all I have to work with are 15x7" wheels so its not really worth it to me to work with em further. What kind of profile is the tire? That makes a difference, if its a drag radial the sidewall will want to have some slop anyway, and you usually try to fit the tallest tire you can in there, although from what I've heard the 240Z wont take much, and it certainly appears true. I dont know if anyone is running beyond a 26/26.1" tire? From an SCCA/NASA/Open Road racer's perspective: This guy is our local racing superhero, he's been doing some kind of competitive motorsport since I think the early 70s. He's been in a few magazines, and makes his heavy Camaro competitive even against lighter Porsches, its a 4th gen so they dont get light easy either. With a full, and very heavy cage, he has the car right about 3k pounds. He doesn't run a full door to give you an idea how much work it takes, its just a skin with dsuz fastners.

I got mine for $150, if you think its in good shape then maybe its a good deal. I think I'd offer less, just because people have payed not much more than that for running ones, without big rust, mine hardly has any rust on it at all and I dont even care about the body, or of course the autotransvestite, I like to row the boat.

jeromio, I have a ZXT donor car, should I bother stealing the brake stuff off it? Or are you saying its more hassle than its worth?

There are educated people that wont even put a 315 on an 11" wheel, educated meaning experienced racers. 315s on a 9.5" wheel has been done, the result was a slower quarter mile, I forget how badly the 60' suffered, but I will say it left 4 stripes at takeoff, not 2. Porsche puts a 275 on an 11" wheel on a race car (not your kind of race car I realize), and GM put a 285 on the 10.5" Z06 wheel. If your honestly drag racing though you shouldn't be using 17" or 18" wheels, I'd look for a 15" or 16" that a nice sloppy sidewall drag tire will fit on. I know someone who ran 315s on a 10.5" wheel fairly successfully, until the wheel broke (Centerline), but again they are considered marginal even on an 11" wheel. You aren't going to see some magical contact patch with a tire that is too big for the wheel. I can post more info for those who are picky

Oh ok, it doesn't get hot here like San Diego at all, but maybe it would kick in on track days, Thunderhill I've seen hit close to 90º, plus tooling around the track, hmm. Maybe I can grab a phillips and do that, I think I can do it from above, as for a screwdriver I'll save that as a last resort because I really wouldn't want to mess one up, maybe the Phillips wouldn't go through as well as a screwdriver. I used my big jack to get it pretty far off the ground so I could get both hands around it, maybe I just need a bigger sheet of sandpaper.

I got up to about 22 MPG, my cruising on the freeway is 3400-3800 RPM, I'm very convinced that I have a 3.90 in the car, but I wont find out till I do the R200 swap. I'm actually wondering now if the rear IS an R200, I will get a better look tomorow when I do the brakes. Looking at it last night it looks big, so I need to ID it better. Every speed trap I've been through agrees very accurately with my speedo. Even with my jettings, the car feels week in certain spots (2k-3k about), sometimes the go-pedal needs a little more motivation to get out of this wierd hesitation, so maybe the float settings are incorrect or maybe they need rebuilding, I dunno. Oddly I have 1 plastic float and 1 brass (or copper?)

That would be sweet with a 12-13" wheel, what kind of flairs or widebody are you going to do?

I went for 13.0:1 WOT AFR on my Fbod, shoot for 12.5:1 - 13.0:1, make sure your doing your WOT testing in 4th gear or maybe 3rd is pretty close For your idle stuff, if you can get around 15.0:1 that would be nice (or 14.7:1 if you want stoich, but thats mainly for O2 sensors). If you go too lean with idle your off idle response will suck, and you could ping, so dont worry about starving it too much. Look for around those AFRs though for cruising. What Webers are these? Scribble down your jets and such too

Yes they are available, sort of. People have found litterally, 4 at one place, 2 at another, and so on - and they are very expensive. They would be quieter, but for enduro racing hyduralic lifters are not the way to go, so I'm glad I got an 82 donor.

315s would be nuts, absolultely nuts, but I bet it will kill just about everything on the car too quickly steering box, etc However the ultimate in G forces would be, well nuts Plus the wheels, and tires cost so much more. Alot of companies make 265 tires in a 16", Vettes came with 16x9.5" wheels for instance, so they are at least one car that would have been supported with this tire.

Heck if thats all you want, you could do easy 12s with a turbo L28 and some upgrades. There is a Datsun 510 that posted a 10 the other day, with some modest upgrades to a Turbo L28 and a shot of nitrous.

Yep, thats what I'm thinking, I'm litterally afraid that I'll break it, but we'll see. Well, it might even make it easier to remove by giving me a grab surface, but it may well not. As for putting the strap wrench higher, I'd have to remove things. The 280ZXT does not have the oil filter at the same angle as the 240Z, in some ways I see this as good, but with all the added crap in the area it really makes sticking even 2 hands up there pretty tough for me.