Mudge

Let me guess, you hate changing shoes on drum brakes? I sure do

$120 is a bargain, although again you can repad a clutch for about that much with your prefered materials I will probably go that route then, since I wont be looking for a ton of HP to start out with, till I get used to the car and its new, larger balls. If your making enough power to slip the clutch though, so far as I know thats pretty much a death sentence, if it continues to slip it will die quickly.

I'm not really a GN guy, if I'd go with another engine it would be a V8, so if and until then I'm going turbo L28. There is a non-intercooled GN turbo, they go relatively inexpensively but I dont know much about them, I think they are called "hot charged" or something along those lines. After that there is a later, "better" version of the GN setup, and I dont know hardly a thing about it. I know fully built up that they have seen at least around 1200 HP (very expensive I'm sure), and I only know that because a local guy with a Duttweiler setup car was making about that, before going to a V8 in his GN and is now running low 8s making 1680 HP last I heard. The only advantages I see with going V6, is weight distribution, tons of room in front for intercooler/radiator stuff. It still means fabbing up custom mounts etc, although at least someone has been there and done that, ScottiGNZ. If you run a Google search you will find info about him, and his page, and some stuff on one of the GN member sites.

I dont expect much response on this one, but clearances are very tight on the ZXT car near the oil filter area, and this thing is on WICKET tight. Whoever put this on, needs to be kicked I can barely get a strap wrench in there, and I'm worried I'll just crush the filter next go. I have tried sandpaper in both hands to try and twist it off, and I'm not really small either, no go. Next I guess I will buy one of those socket adapters and see if I can twist it off with a slow application of force with a breaker bar, I about expect to break something getting it off. Above the filter what is that in the way? I see the starter in the area and what looks like an EGR/AIR pump, it routes to over the valve cover with 2 air outlets...

It might depend on your expected HP and RPM levels, more cubes is sure nice but at the expense of possibly nuking the block, not worth it to me. Shops that do BIG bore buildups, usually hand pick the blocks based on sonic testing etc, so you would definately have no choice but to go that route if you are not looking for a dice roll. This will tell you wether your block is a candidate or not. Maybe you could also consider block filler to help strengthen it.

What in the world is up with that top row....

For that price, why not go all the way? As much as I like saving money, if its a wear item and it only costs a little bit more for something that will give better bias, and last litterally forever, its a no brainer.

I dont know the ZX cams, but if they stuck with something like a 106º LSA cam they would not have needed EGR.

Be more specific, what engine are we talking about, what transmission. You could do a V8 swap for around a grand (its been done at least once, 5.0 Ford), obviously a GN swap would cost more. Are we talking a $6,000 V8 with no transmission, or etc Bang for the buck, I considered either a 5.0 Ford (I want FI though), or just an LT1, which can make good power, get good MPG if you know how to tune it (like anything), and I know how to work on them.

I'm going turbo, but most of my experience comes from Chevy V8s. Cube for cube, how are you going to beat a V8? We aren't talking Ford flatheads either. Any 350? I look at things from a factual, and scientific standpoint (so I think anyhow), and it is just not possible to beat "any" V8 when you have less cubes, unless we are talking Hondas experimental 250cc V8 I had around 480 HP in my LT1, which is not at all the best V8 out there, yet even in my overweight 3450 pound car it was streetable with stock 3.42 rear gears. If one wanted between 300 or 1200 HP or more, it can be done with a V8, and you will have a broader powerband (NA vs NA, Turbo vs Turbo, etc), thanks to your cubes. Another huge advantage, my NA car ran off 91 octane gas here in CA, if you push the limits with a turbo engine expecting to match my 480 HP I expect some fancy intercooling if your going to be able to take it on the track for 25 minute runs as I have. In other words lets be serious here, you can do great things with the L28 but it is not going to match a V8 unless your talking expensively built up L28 versus junkyard piece of crap, $100 almost dead V8 with no work done to it. Of course an advantage to the L28, and one of the reasons I stuck with it (for now), it will plug right in, and with the turbo I can make good bottom end torque yet still get good gas mileage. When I want more power later I dont have to do a cam swap neccessarily, I can up the boost or upgrade the turbo and fuel, provided the intercooler will handle it, and voila 50 or whatever more HP on tap, until you reach the limits of the internals. In my case I'm not rebuilding the engine, I'm probably going to run it, maybe till death, or until I do decide to have more downtime and go V8. If your looking at these huge HP numbers to "beat any V8" then expect to run a cage as well, and clean up the frame from rust as much as possible, since obviously a frame made of rust wont hold 500+ HP very long. I could ramble on and on but I've done enough already

Most drills I know of make sparks, maybe a brushless motor wont?

Easy way to find out Call or email the dyno shop, and ask them to email you the dynojet files. Download the free Dynojet runviewer program, and look at the MPH vs RPM, does the RPM go up but the MPH not change? If so, then the clutch is slipping.

Ok, if its a fuel pump or something in the tank, right-o! Even after totally emptying them people are wary of fumes, and frankly better safe than sorry.

IMO, for that low miles, if you believe its in running condition and you can get whats needed for that price, its cheaper than a running donor (unless you are lucky and resourcefull like Len168/FL327). I would jump on it, even if you could get it for $200 or something at some other place, some other time, if its all in one peice now...! I'm willing to pay extra sometimes for something that is worth it, and 68k miles is nothing! If anything I envy you, I have a car that I have to figure out how to get rid of, and it sounds like you will have yours transplanted before me You could always try to talk them down a bit though?

The T5 is what came on the turbo cars, the engine will have a 240mm flywheel unless someone took that too. Frankly I want the NA 5 speed, some people like them and yet some others like the T5, but I'd take a guess that there are more people that dislike the T5 than like them. The NA 5 speed was raced to about 650 HP with a little work, so I dont buy for a second that it sucks, the ratios are also much better in my humble, retarded opinion. I've heard $200 for a complete turbo engine, but I dont know the reality of that, you are also going to want the wiring and downpipe, computer, and maybe some of the rest of the exaust also (minus the muffler probably since you can buy a new one). You may also want to take the fuel pump and bracket, or maybe just the bracket. If this is going in a 280ZX then maybe you have the same, external fuel pump bracket already, I dont know. Not sure if you need the fuse blocks, but it might be a good idea, if you already have a 280ZX then maybe not. I haven't done my to my 280ZXT donor car otherwise I could be of more help.

I dont know what an intake pump is, unless its an smog device (air pump?). If you can get a small propane torch on it, they whup ass. I soaked my brake lines for days on end with penetrating oil, to no avail, with vice grips I just rounded them off and broke lines, when I finally got the torch I did the rear brake lines in mere minutes.

I would assume you could find them, but your not going to find Honda wheels in greater than 8" wide that I've seen.

Ok, good to know! Unfortunately that is the part that I need to get, doh.

I had to buy a torch to do my brake lines recently, and man it takes a job with alot of swearing and just plain breaking stuff, down to a couple minutes of easy peasy! A very bitchin $15 or so on my part. Make sure to buy a flint striker for your new toy

Spec has a good name from what I know, I'll dig around to see what they offer. I was also thinking of just resurfacing a stocker with your choice of compounds, this is often the "cheap" race clutch for some people, and resurfacing is usually $100-$120.

...and if so, how are you doing it? Where is the IAT placed, what sensor are you using, and what kind of guage/readout?

The way people are calculating it, is 1/2 rim width + .5", so 5.5"+.5"= 6 inches back space

Since that is the same rule of thumb that Centerline is using for the Z wheels, I'd say pretty good, I wouldn't know why they might not work in fact. I forget who it was over there that was helping everyone, Angie???

I was going to use 265s, http://www.tirerack.com , not sure if they ship international? I want these for race tires, not really for street use. I have 15x7" Riken that I can use for that, although I'd have to have coilovers and flairs and yada yada, so much stuff that I may run 15x6" for daily use and 15x7" with 205 Victoracers for track, until I can afford to "finish" the project.

Found this great link digging around the archives http://www.sdsefi.com/techheader.htm