Mudge

http://www.lt1tech.com has a forum for Hybrid cars, just an FYI, its a rather new site so traffic is not like CamaroZ28.com

Very nice!

I dont see why a standard clutch for the 2.8L wouldn't work with the power of a stock turbo car, but how long are you going to be stock? A couple upgrades and you could be pumping out another 25% power, and I dont know how much headroom is in these clutches stock. They are a fair size for such a small engine, but again with a couple mods and your looking at V8 torque. If your going to drag race it you will especially appreciate a good clutch, if you road race or just casually drive it with some hot footing now and then, it wont be as critical. I think your best bet is to hunt down a 2+2 or turbo flywheel (they are the same size 240mm). With even a few pounds more boost over stock and I think from what I've heard a stock clutch wont like it for long, but it again probably depends on your use of the car. Feel very free to get more opinions on that though, as I dont even have the turbo setup in my car yet! Len168/FL327 said his clutch was holding until he got slicks recently, and I believe he is at stock boost levels right now. The more hook and the more driveline stress.

Exactly, the higher the RPM and the more power delivered, and your going to strain the block which will cause ring wear and possible failure, at best though it will just not last as long. Each .1L is about 6 cubes, not worth it! I never understood why 454 guys went straight for 468 and so on, just not worth it.

More fun to do than watch Those guys belong in rally or circle track Outlaw racing. There was one guy who was actually going around the track like he was supposed to, I wish I could understand what each driver was saying, but am not desperate enough to get it translated for me, it would be nice to know what they were talking about though.

They can't afford breakage during a race, it sure does happen though, but you will hardly ever see it during a Sebring/Le Mans type race.

You got it.

One RX7 driver actually made it around the track, like he was supposed to

Lets see, stickers, and driving around the track slowly, on purpose. I still dont understand the whole rice movement. All show, no go.

There should be simple math out there on static compression ratio and octane requirements as well as timing, too bad I dont know a thing about turbos!

JC Whitney is one place to get rotors, or price them out at your local auto parts store. As for pads, I am looking to try out some Hawk pads for my car on the fronts (stock rear!), I have seen them at I believe one place I think for $40 or $50. Some people are brand loyal (that might be me), I've only used Hawk pads and I like them on the street (HPS compount). I have heard some bad things about the EBC Greens, but that was on larger cars.

The flywheel will work yes, but not with a turbo clutch. Turbo cars and 2+2 cars get a 240mm flywheel/clutch setup, so a turbo clutch is too large for a standard flywheel.

Better get those blingy bling drilled rotors cryoed then.

Gee whiz, your day beat my day yesterday trying to do my brakes. I finished one and got 3 hours of sleep. I guess I'm glad for quakes and not freezing temperatures

JMO, but there is no reason to beef up the caliper and leave the rotor stock. Steel lines and stock pads and this thing stops so hard my tires wont stand for it. For repeated stopping power you will want vented rotors and brake ducting.

Why cross drilled? Please get vented rotors, for your own good. Down with cross drilled rotors.

Brackets $50 http://modena.intergate.ca/personal/mikeg/brakes.html Plus cost of welding if you dont have your own.

So far as I know, there is NO support from Koni on these cars any longer, in which case they are all MR2 or Rabbit counterparts. I was told to avoid the Rabbit stuff, because you have to section the struts in a BIG way, making the car so low it will not supposedly go over the smallest speed bump. This is from a person who did this, on an all out race car. Another possible option is a spacer, which I'd be interested in, but I see no real reason to do so when you can have the MR2 stuff. I am thinking right now Bilsteins from an MR2 revalved for whatever springs I go with, when I'm rich n stuff.

10mm offset is a modern day, front wheel drive size. They would have to be very skinny to fit, or get wheel spacers, which will run around $200-$240.

I researched this also, due to needing to decide what to do with the car. The rear end will not last as long as it should, and your car will push, and you will have a little difficulty keeping it controlled on the street most especially in wet weather. All in all its a ghetto way of getting out of finding an LSD, and for the cost of paying someone to weld it up, it just doesn't make sense to me. I'd rather wait and find a clutch pack LSD, but then there are issues with that too, they dont last forever. If you search around Corner-Carvers.com message board, you will find articles on LSD stuff, and welded diffs, and I also asked some local racers, every single one of them said the same thing, which all pointed at dont do it. Quaife for me, one time investment.

I sure dont know of many candidates, is your purpose to make it look almost stock? If not I'd go for the V6 setup myself, but I'll be stuck with SOHC Turbo L6 anywho

The thing with spacers, besides rules if I ever did an SCCA event, is that it is going to run me more $ and the Cobra R wheels as you said aren't exactly light racing wheels to boot. So there would have to be a reason to steer me in that direction, like ease of setup. So I would do the 5 lug if there were some reason to do so, if it allows me brake flexibilty (vented rotors etc) then I may do it anyway, and just find a 5 lugger wheel that is light.

Now I see why I could not move the adjuster downwards, you have to pull on the parking brake lever?!?! Otherwise it acts as a lock, and will not permit movement downards. I saw a picture which almost eluded to this, but the book says nothing. It seems the Haynes for this car is more brief than the Chiltons are for my other cars, maybe its an age though though, although my Chiltons for the 69 Firebird went into detail just fine...

Got the stud back in, not sure if I mentioned, but I dont really have a strong liking for drum brakes.

Shoot, my 15x7" are Riken, are they all heavy knockoffs of Enkei? Ross, have you ever considered/thought possible using another wheel and drilling new lug holes? If not I am at least going to take a look at the Stang/5 lug conversion setup. If I can run 17x9" without a spacer I may well do that.