Glliw

You're right, it is the front valence. I put it at half way to lock on, cranking to the right and it made some contact. Rims are the "turbine" style ones, which I'm fairly certain are stock size. I think the rubbing is more a byproduct of the front end damage the car took from PO. (reason for getting it dirt cheap too!) So once that gets straightened out, along with an MSA type 1 air dam, she should be all good to go.

Sorry, but ARB = ?

I was able to just grab the steering rod and twist it while I was under the car and didn't see any unusual movements, though I'll replace them anyways as I'll be just buying the master kit of bushings. I agree with you that with such a large number of replacements it will most likely be fixed along the way.

Thanks for all the pointers Miles, though I've looked into those items. The tire has no play to it on either side so wheel bearings are out of the question, and the pads look next to new, even if they are a crappy pad. Bushings, springs, struts, and pads all around are on the to-do list. I hadn't considered rebuilding the calipers.

I had a chance to take a look at this again today and no broken suspension parts down there. Looks like I could use a new boot on the right side of the steering arm though as its got a small tear in it. What I'm thinking after reading through this and the FSM some is that the sound may be from the fact that the front shocks are blown thus causing some abnormal movements, but also all the blown bushings on the car. It looks like pretty much every bushing has seen better days. Here's some shots of what I saw down there. I say its a safe bet that some tokico HPs, Eibach springs, and an poly-bushing kit are in the near future for this car.

While I don't have anything technical to add, I just want to say cool vids! Its pretty interesting how that first 60 feet plays out in slow-mo.

I bled the rear tonight at the master cylinder and that seemed to help some. Also put some plastic-safe lube on the brake switch and that took care of the ratcheting sound on pedal return. I didn't get a chance to check the rear adjustment yet.

Bleed screws are facing up as they should. I just checked the idle and depressing the brake pedal makes no difference. I guess I'll check out the rears and bleed them sometime in the next few days and see where that gets me.

I put it to the steering lock and didn't see any rubbing. That's stock tire size too so I don't feel like that could be it.

Sorry about that, I'll add that info to the signature block in a second here. Its a 78 280z, I'm pretty sure its a bone stock car. Previous owner had no info to give really so just figuring it out over the past few days here. The wheels are those stock turbine style ones. 195/70/14's

Hey guys, I'm sort of at a loss on this one. When the wheels are turned to the right and I'm reversing, there is a horrible grinding noise coming from the front of the car. Could this be a tie rod issue? All the boots under the front look good, although all bushings are blown out and front shocks are blown as well. Thanks

Ok, thanks for the tips guys. I didn't see any leaks coming from the master cylinder area so I think we can rule that out, but I'll check again in the next couple of days with more emphasis around there. Looks like SS lines and Hawk HP+ pads from MSA auto run a cool $140 together. I don't suppose there's a better deal out there than them on these that you guys are using? I know they seem to have the most stuff but I've heard in a few other threads that they price jack a bit. Oh, I meant to mention this in the first post, but the pedal makes a ratcheting noise on return from being depressed...not sure if that helps here or not, but doesn't seem right.

I just picked up this 280z and first thing I noticed in it mechanically is just how garbage the brakes are. Sure, they stop the car, but it takes at least always more than half the pedal travel, if not more to do the job decently. I did some inspection tonight and the pads have plenty of surface left (look to be near new in fact), and the rotors within spec for thickness. I bled the fronts but that was to no help really. Though, in the process my "brake" light on the cluster is now off, probably due to now having an adequate fluid level. So should I just expect stock brakes to suck this much or should I start looking more at the brake booster, master cylinder, etc? Are the rear even worth my time looking into? Thanks for the input.

I'm using one of those 0-15 psi autozone gauges on my 260z and the plastic hasn't burst or shown any signs of leakage. Just make sure to teflon tape it before screwing together.

2.01 in orlando, apparently in east iowa its hit 1.77

Wow, that was a heck of a lot of coolant dumping out. I agree with jc052685, they probably did not pay more than a few grand for it. This show is pretty damned funny, can't wait for more episodes!

I was wondering when this would make its way onto hybridz. Its hitting every forum I've been on.

First time I've seen it. at about $400 USD before shipping too though. If they got the price down some more it would be an even nicer item.

Hey guys, I've come to the point where I need a tune up. I had one in march but I guess it didn't last? Either way, I'm getting 10mpg city without romping on it and the car is wanting to hesitate under acceleration after being on for around 20 or so minutes and is fully warmed up. If I ease back on the choke it will alleviate the hesitation but I'm killing my gas mileage and wallet. So, anyone in the Orlando area able to help me out please? Feel free to email me at wgysi@knights.ucf.edu or reply to this thread. Will

Nice man, would like to see it installed and working.

I'm about to do my XM installation into my 260z soon. I plan on using an FM modulator for the signal reception from the antenna (on the roof of the car). Use the XM factory bracketry to attach to the dash most likely.

While it may hold true to be easier and better, not as many people have a 460 datsun, no? I say, if you believe you have the mechanical and fabrication prowess to do it, then go for it. Measurement wise, there is more space in between the shock towers in a S30 for a 460 then a '70 Mercury Cougar, and I know a 460 fits in a Cougar.