Glliw

Long story short, I need a straight front clip for my project car, from mid-fender forward. I am in southeast Wisconsin. Someone nearby would be greatly prteferred as shipping for something like this would be intense. Thanks, Will

Puller fan also wins as you'll be drawing in cooler air from outside the engine bay through the radiator, instead of pushing hot engine bay air through the radiator. This creates an uphill battle, as you're heating the "thing" that's trying to cool the other "thing".

You're gains will be minimal at best, and mostly replaced by the added weight of the intercooler system, I think. The following numbers come from Diesel engines I work on at work that we thermocouple to hell; your mileage will vary on gas engines, I'm sure. Air temps out of a turbo hover in the 300-400F range, so an intercooler is necessary to get those back down to something reasonable, like 15ish over ambient temp. The gains you are seeing with cooler days are due to the increased density of the air at cooler temps, but probably more-so a butt dyno effect than anything.

Nice, buy one-get one deal there. lol

That's how I'd expect it to react. Good news.

I too feel a bit left-side cramped in my 280z, though that's what the window is for! Just dangle that arm out in the wind!

What vehicle's steering effort are you used to? If its something like my Lincoln Zephyr (re: Ford Fusion), then yeah, you're going to feel a big difference going from super-sloppy power steering to manual.

I'll keep that in mind. It looks like there's a bunch of places to pick up that sprayer too so that's a plus. Even Walmart and Home Depot show that they carry them in stores, that is, if Google Shopping isn't lying.

Have you measured their thickness? What do the pads look like?

Nevermind, I got my daily driver's brakes and the Z's brakes confused. Either way, for reference, many rotors have cooling fins such as this: Many people also wait too long between brake jobs and get this as a result:

Heh, good thinking. Either way, it sounds from the bit I've read on it pretty easy to remove and re-apply if there is in case bubbling or what-have-you. I've mainly thought of it since mine is "301 Brown Metallic", which everyone I've talked to says it looks like a 70's poo'. lol So you can see why I would want to try plastidip at some point.

It looks like it came out pretty good. I've thought about doing this at some point down the road (re: years).

Look at it from the edge. Does the discoloration follow the cooling path pattern? It is most likely discoloration due to extreme heat cycling. You've changed the molecular structure on the rotors.

Sito, 2+2's don't usually do it for me, but that one's catching my eye! Lowrider, what's your suspension setup look like?

Well that is a real debbie-downer...

Is this affecting the Tokico HP's as well as the Illuminas? I've got blown front shocks that need replacing and would rather not be forced into a stock replacement/KYB's.

Glad to hear it all worked out for you

Looks like an issue at the switch...time for a new one I guess... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI0JGK1u_zA

A little update for the day: continuity checked out from Green with blue stripe (GL) at switch to the fuse block. battery voltage seen between the right side of the fuses to green with white switch (GW) Looking at BE-15, GL seems to be pretty simple, with it being a direct path from switch to fuse with no other wires coming into it. GW is fairly complex. From what I can understand, GW picks up hazards, radio and heater. The radio works. The hazards do not, but I suspect that's a result of the front end damage, as they took a beating from the PO. Any pointers here?

I looked at C-1 and the whole underside of the dash area and nothing was a glaring issue. I did not get a chance to measure the voltage at the pin though as I was running out of light and time from helping my neighbor on their car (this is what I get for leaving the garage door open!). The wires at switch have a good connection. Looking at BE-15 on the top half a 20A fuse is shown between the switch and fusible link, but the fuse on the block that is use is the upper right "PT" 15A fuse. Is there another fuse in the system somewhere that I'm missing? I still suspect rheostat failure though no clue how to test one.

Just added two of those shots to my collection of desktop backgrounds. Great shots and beautiful car!

Nope, I wasn't touching anything else at the time. You're saying the solder joint on top of the combo switch for you failed? Mine look in good shape so shouldn't be my issue, as I get voltage at the switch. The rheostat is what I suspect but I have no idea how to check one. So you're thinking I might have an issue with that Black wire going from the rheostat to C-1?

So I pulled the dome light off and those contacts look beautiful. I pulled the bulb out and inspected it and the filament looked good, though one of the "contact cones" on the bulb fell off when I was trying to get it back in there. This was probably the loose connection that jiggling the light was fixing. So looks like a new bulb might just solve that but I tried to see if it'd work without the bulb as well as a wire jumped between the two leads and I got nothing in return...

Thanks for the info, djwarner. I took another look at it tonight. The back side of the fuse box looks good...no corrosion there. I got them working...for about 2 minutes. I was checking voltages across the fuses (which is practically nothing for all fuses with the engine running...) and when I sat back to stretch out from being bent over, I fiddled with the dome light. It was flickery when pushed but when nudged over to the one side it stayed on and voila! the lights came back on. Two minutes later and the top right fuse blew. So I'm guessing its a poor connection in that dome light that's causing problems or am I off on this?

The other night I was driving the car and out of the blue the dash lights went out on me. There have been no electrical changes to the car that would warrant this. I have so far checked: combo switch contacts - had some carbon build up that i cleaned up with sandpaper and swapped headlight for parking lights - no effect no blown fuses the black fusible link for alternator/ign switch relay was melted but not burned through. All other fusible links look good. So what should I check next? I'm thinking the dimmer switch but I have no idea what to do to test a rheostat. Also, where's a good source for a new fusible link? I don't want to make the $60 jump to a maxi-fuse setup quite yet. My local Autozone didn't have anything (or anyone) useful in stock.