ZR8ED

bump this back up for the others.

Well I have a rear belly pan/diffuser that I have spent quite a bit of time researching designing and building for my Z. It so far has not seemed to have helped my fuming problem. It only fumes with the windows down. One window down is worse than both. And when I'm on the throttle hard, it gets worse. I have replaced the hatch seals and sealed everything I could find under the car. I still have some holes in the firewall (linkages, harness etc) I have been told my exhaust is not right, even though it exits several inches beyond the rear of the car, it is the type that angles upward. I will change that soon though. I don't think any ONE thing is the cause of the fuming. It does apear to be better than it was before I fixed some of these things... except the fuming while under full throttle... it will eventually make your eyes water... There are two other large threads like this one about fuming/ airflow under the car etc..

Ah yes I remember my first Ferrari Kill... oh wait..you guys are talking about driving one? Hell no. I've seen tons, but never have even sat in one. The only thing nicer than the sound of that 308@130+ mph was the look on the drivers face as I passed him. I'll NEVER forget that day...

Also check the fork for cracks or bending. I had a hela time once.. pulled the tranny to see what was going on and found the fork had a small crack and the slave cyl was starting to "push through" the fork reducing the travel of the fork. The fork is probably 22+ years old afterall..

Well the link is dead for the info unless someone else knows a link to "240dave" from michigan? I did find that the rotor hat is 17mm for a 240 and 26mm for a 260-280z. Sorry. I may have the info printed off somewhere...

Guys this is an older collection of Z info. 63 pages if I recall if you printed it out. Tons of Z stats, breakdowns of parts codes, how to's, swaps, performance mods, brake upgrade how to's (even the s12-w swap) Its catagorized, but it is a wide range of Z specific info gathered over the years by hardworking Z maniac who goes by the handle "Rough Idle" if you can remember to the pre hybridz days over at zcar.com. This is his baby, and he gets the full credit for putting it together. This is an older link that I just discovered that still works! bookmark this one folks! This link should be a sticky for newbies? http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/240z.htm Enjoy the read. Scott.

Hey Matt. Try UAP. I'm pretty sure I got them there.. or maybe Car Quest. not a problem getting them though. The spacer..well I think you can handle that part. I'll get you the dimensions for the spacer.. there are 2 or 3 different thicknesses depending on the year of Z. 240 are 1/2" late model 280's are 314 thou. (kinda specific eh?) not sure about your model, though I do have the numbers for all the spacers. Scott

What I'm trying to say is in race trim a 280zx is lighter than a "street" 240. And yes the 2005 rules say it has to be a minimum of 2180. His is heavier than the min, yes, but 2200 lbs ain't bad considering the misconception of the 280zx being heavier. They were heavier due to the "comforts". The weight penalty in SCCA racing has nothing to do with which car is capable of being lighter, and more to do with maintaining fairness and negating competitive advantages. No one has even mentioned that they are physically larger vehicles, and can still be light weight... even in the eyes of a stock 240 owner.

They are stronger and lighter (race trim) My friend has a 280zx. 2200lbs gt2 legal fun racer. Better aero as well. But you are all correct. Not as much performance stuff avail, or at least limited.

most of the lights go through the hazard switch (at least on my 78) when it acts up.. I have no lights signals... etc.. Check as many connections and grounds as you can find. Clean them all..even if they look ok. Use some dilectric grease on them as well. Change some of the fuses. Sometimes it is hard to see that a fuse if blown. They sometimes let go in weird locations.

I'm back on the road! wahoo! we'll see how it holds up. Thanks!

sounds like not enough fuel upon cold start up. thermotime switch? temp switch? startup injector?

For idle.. check initial timing, and don't forget the obvious (idle speed screw) might be too low to hold an idle. Ya never know. oh and vacuum leaks...nasty..

I just went through this with my ign module. I replaced it a few months back and all was well.. Until 2 weeks ago? approx? It seems it has gone bad already. I'd give the module a whack! and the car would then start and run again. I replaced the cap rotor, wires to no avail. got another dizzy this week. and replaced the whole thing.. runs and starts fine now. ign module or not. if it doesn't work right, you WILL NOT get spark out of the coil. I had NO spark at the coil. changed ign module (in my case the first time, the second time i replaced the whole dizzy) car instantly had spark at the coil again. good luck.

Thanks guys! I'll be up and running (reliably) on Fri!

I tried posting this in the classifieds, but it keeps freezing when I hit submit.??? Not sure whats going on but I'm desperate. I have an 82 280zx. The little black box on the side of the dizzy has been giving me problems. The car just cuts out.. sometimes while driving, sometimes while idling or coasting etc... it usually starts back up, but sometimes I have to get out and jiggle the black box and i can then restart the car.. Anyways, I have had this problem before, and when I replaced the black box, all was well... problem is I can't find another. Does anyone have a dizzy with the black box? it has a two pronged plug on the top of the black box, and a "fuel injector style" plug on the side of the black box. I need one in excellent condition, I'll take the whole thing, as I'm no longer certain it is just the black box..maybe something is corroded in the dizzy body. I drive the car everyday, so I don't have time to pull it apart and risk damaging the dizzy while atempting to repair it. Email me ZR8ED@hotmail.com I can paypal if needed. or pick it up if your local (Toronto area) Scott.

Well folks I finally gave up on my 69 240 project. I'm just not prepared at this time to spend $ on it when I have bigger projects still on the go. I'm sad to see it go. I asked to see the car when the owner finishes it, and I hope he joins are car club so others can see it at one of our car shows. I posted it about 2 weeks ago on my clubs classified section. I had 40+ emails, and about 8 came to see the car. No problems selling it either. So I'm back down to 2 Z's. It would have been a cool car, but I would rather have a bone stock 1st gen to sit mildly along side the rolling black car of death and destruction! hehehe I wouldn't want a fight to break out in the garage in the middle of the night. That poor ol 69 would never have survived. hehe Oh well, back to fixing the daily driver.. Scott.

Welcome back! Not even worth having a handgun in Canada. Can't own most styles/types, and sooo much paperwork and threats of jail, its hardly even worth it to own them. Now a 30-06, 303, or an SKS, or a 12 guage pistol grip no prob. Although they were (are????) forcing all owners to pay a registration fee for ANY type of firearm. Only the Cops and Criminals have handguns here. IF the gov't had its way, all gun owners would be criminals..at least it felt like it with the gun resgistration law. How could you fight it?..do you have something to hide?? if nothing to hide, then it should be ok to register you and your firearms, as well as pay a fee to do it! just to get guns out of the hands of criminals.. As Archie Bunker so aptly answered his daughters question about banning firearms to prevent murders. "would it make you feel any better if they wuz pushed outa windows?" Let the past go, and get on with life! Start Zedding!!! Scott

Well I'm no refinish paint expert. Yellowing of clearcoat can come from too much or too little activators. Activated paint that has been too long before being applied. Too much heat. (higher temps, or too long of a bake) Incompatibility of clear/base Paint is old/subjected to air/moisture. (same goes for clearcoat) Activators are old/subjected to air/moisture. Paint not mixed thoroughly (before activators added) or after. Improper flash off times Uh.. I'm sure there are some others I'm missing. I just had this happen at work. Guys were repairing white cars and the clear was turning yellow during or sometimes before baking.. Found out the guys were mixing the clear and activators, and mixing base and their activators, and leaving them in the guns sometimes for 1 week depending on the # of repairs for a particular colour. Then it was not curing proper, so they started adding more activators to the clear.. MESSY. lots of ruined cars.. I had them spray a few panels under my guidance (to recommended specs) and found the colour was bang on. The paint was even from the same gallon can! Mixed fresh! Chemicals can be touchy and unpredictable when mixed incorrectly.

My wheels have no spacers or adapters. Nissan 4 bolts.. A little bit custom though "a la" Simmons wheels in Australia. See my sig.

Keep it on the cheap and reliable. Drowning in debt is NO FUN at all. Keep liquid enough that you can still have some fun, and be able to afford some of those "hard knocks" that life throws on us.. usually at the worst time, and when you can least afford it. I sold my new Altima and bought that ZX for that reason. Freedom! Plus I just like driving Z's. 1 Keep it inexpensive yet reliable enough to manage. 2 Get the education finished/paid for. 3 Find a decent career. 4 Then its balls to the wall with the Z! That was and is my philosophy. I've been balls to the wall for almost 5 years now with the Z. The first 9 yrs were much more modest especially while in school! Scott

I use a marine style antenae designed for use in smaller powerboats. They just put the antenae under the dash. I fixed mine to the inside of the windshield by the A pillar. It is about 3-4 inches long and 3/4" square. Works good enough for me. I actually bought it from a custom stereo shop. I suppose they do custom stuff for boats too! hehehe