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Do you mean the black strip? Its about 4 inches... about the same as lawn edging...as a matter of fact, exactly the same as lawn edging found a home depot! hehe Its a very old trick of mine. I don't care if it scrapes the ground. I get the air dam effect with out the worries of damaging my expensive air dam!. Nice and low.. When damged..replace!

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=14817&highlight=bellypan Here is one of the larger topics. Scott.

There is a fair amount on this topic. One of them I started where I've been working on a rear diffuser. Search "belly pan" or "rear diffuser" Some of the topics have not been updated for a while. I will add more to it as my car has come out to play for the summer again, and work will resume where i left off. This is my front belly pan.

Well for starters. 1: 280z's for sure had the stock belt mounted to the top of the shock towers. 2: find a harness that is DOT legal. It should not be a problem. Our cars are getting old, and I would rather trust a new harness to an old 3 point belt from a 25 year old Z. 3: Make sure your strut brace is very strong if you are going to mount it to it. The adjustable one from places like MSA I would not hook my seat belt to. My rear bar is 1.5inch chromemoly with 1/4 inch plates that the strut bolts to (like a giant washser so to speak sitting on the top of the strut.)

The fuel smell after shut down is not normal. Air filters are a very good Idea and will assist in cutting down the odour... (I think.. sounds good anyways) If you are still seeing some residue in the venturis, then you are likely still a bit high with your float settings, or your fuel pressue may be too high... (check that first) To cut down on the expense of filters, you can make a nice air box out of sheet aluminum. There are probably lots of pics of members rides. I made one for my car, and ran a 3" hose infront of the rad and attached a K&N filter out front. Come to think of it though.. when ever I opened the air box, (I had a removable lid for easy access) it usually had a bit of residue in there. I ran my carbs on the rich side, with no chokes, I suppose that residue was from when ever the carbs would backfire...when the engine was cold. Not a big deal though.

Since this topic has popped up about same size brake systems. I read an interesting comment. Quote: How would it work if one wanted to use the stock front calipers on the rearwith stock solid rotors? That was an interesting statement. I have not looked at my suspension in a long time, but could you modify or mount a front strut on the rear of the car, thus gaining the ability to run the front brake system on the back? It can't be that easy or someone would have already done it right? The more I think about it, it couldn't work could it? Anyways it would be cool if you could. Especially if you upgraded your front brake system to larger rotors and calipers.. you could just use your stock front stuff on the back. hmmm just make some sort of adapter to use the fronts on the back? Stop me I think I'm talking crazy...I'm certainly no engineer, but anything is possible right?

Hey guys a quick Q. I really don't want to pull apart a perfectly good hub to measure one bolt for a friend who doesn't have access to this site. He and heck I do to, would like to know the bolt size for a 240 front hub bolt. He is installing a set of 4runner calipers on z31 rotors on a 71 240z the spacers are being made, but he doesn't know the stock size of the bolt that goes through the spacer to the hub. We know it will be longer, but what is the stock size? length in mm, as well as what dia bolt, thread pitch etc.. This brings me to a new idea as I type this. Maybe we should record the bolt sizes for the Z. bolt dia, length, thread count etc... Anyone seen this kind of info? Might make a good sticky?

Well the project takes its first step in weeks. I've put it off due to weather over the last few weeks. Today, not too warm, but at least its dry out. I finally moved my 240 out of storage and brought it home to clean it up, put the interior back in, lots more clean up, make sure everything still works. etc. I fired her up this morning and let it warm up. I had a tow truck come and pick it up ( no plates) it fired right up, but ran like a pig with no chokes. I needed to make sure it would start because the tow truck was going to drop it off in the steet at my place, and I was going to have to drive it up the driveway and get the car into place. (long hill) There was no way I could push it up the hill if it didn't start. Music to my ears... maybe not the neighbours though... 6-2 open headers. High compression with a cam. It sounded mighty wicked. Well the tow went smoothly. It was kinda tough to get the car up the driveway because it wasn't fully warmed up, so the car didn't want to run under load. Now it sits at home. I can start to put in the new harnesses, and start a major clean up to get it ready for the road. Now I can start to put some time into working on it in my spare time. Wahoo! summer is inching closer for me. They are going to think I'm nuts at work here tonight with a perma grin on my face all night! hehe

Good advice. The last crossroads I came to in my life, I panicked, jambed the horn and the gas, ran over the stop sign and came to a stop in a ditch upside down. I am talking about my Z31 that had a head gasket blow. I got ticked off spending $1500 per year on it, so I went out and bought a new Altima. I got the better gas mileage, still got the looks, I have had zero maintainence so far except for oil changes. I got that all for the price of $9000/year in car payments and insurance premiums. Pretty smart eh? I am now selling my Altima so I can get back to basics. Why? you ask? Simple. I love my Z's and the second reason $. I can maintain the worst POS Z for a lot less than car payments. The difference in car insurance is only 1/3 for the Z, so I can afford a lot more gas for that difference. I can change out my starter in my 240 in 7 min. I can't even find my starter on my Altima! So here it is. My advice. Do you love your Z? Then FIX it. at least you know whats going on with it, and don't have to worrry as much about previous owners "fixes" Work on mods to the car that will help with your gas mileage. Don't skimp on maintenance. A Z can be just as reliable as any car. Good luck

"Bubba" of the Toecutters MC

Just type in http://www.coollizard.com type it into your address bar..

And to think It used to be 2780! Anyone know what a stock nissan rim (six spoke) is with a 225/60/14? I'm sure my wheels alone are adding 80lbs over stock. But you won't see me complain. MORE BOOST is the answer to all your speed desires...

Hmm so does that mean I'm only second dog? Hmm and why are the two top piggies both from the same Z car club? Glenn is it because we have to add extra fat to keep warm in the winter like the mighty Canadian beaver? Hehehe I don't care for the PIG designation, but I will accept... FBB Just call me a FAT BOTTOM BOY.

Uhh I think you need to look at those fuel lines again.. One is the fuel from the tank. the other is a fuel return, and the third?...uh maybe a vent line for the charcoal canister???...I can't remember off hand..

coollizard.com is the web site. Check it out. Scott.

Well all this talk of RPM is kinda confusing.... lower rpm should equal lower fuel consumption..right? WRONG. At least in the real world. Anyone with a turbo engine can probably get this. Try reving your engine in neutral. Can't get the boost past zero?..why? no load on the engine to build up enough exhaust gas to drive the turbo fast enough to build boost. Now try this on the street. cruise at 50mph in 3rd and note rpms AND boost pressure (or vacuum at this point) then put it in 5th at same speed. now watch rpms and boost pressure. Depending on your gearing boost settings/turbo etc etc.. this will vary, but in 5th you will likely be running some boost, and likely no boost in 3rd. Why? engine load. Different RPM's, and likely in 5th you will be burning a whole lot more fuel than in 3rd at the same 50mph. This is just an example. It makes sense to me. Not sure if you can follow my example though. Engine loading is what drives the mileage. In my 280, I can get about 30mpg at a steady speed. In my case, it is something in the Z31 ecu, but if I keep it at 3000 rpm or less, I get great mileage on the highway. If I take it to 3100 rpm or more, my air fuel monitor reads 10:1 and I can almost watch the fuel guage drop. (normal highway it read 13:1 at under 3000rpm.) On a turbo car you want to be cruising on the highway at an rpm that causes you to run on vacuum not boost. You would want to run with as much vacuum you can get away with and still be able to maintain speed.

Mine tipped the scales at 2900 flat with 1/4 tank of fuel if I recall... add me in and I can be a close second at 3075. Maybe a bit less if I toss out the spare tire...uhhhh wait I already tossed it years ago..hehe Its a good thing my engine is lighter than the original, or I'd be in trouble..hehehe Well at least I can't twist the car to death.. (collisions excluded)

I was at a local hot rod shop talking about sound deadeners for my car, and the owner mentioned a new product he distributes. It is a ceramic based compound that is sprayable/roller or brush on. At 40 thou thick it has a 12 db sound reduction, and cut down heat transfer. He had some sheet metal partially brushed with this stuff sitting on a stove element. he had water boiling on the bare metal side, and the guy put his hand on the half that was coated with this stuff, and was right on the burner!!! It is flexible, and is water resistant. You can use it on the floors either inside or outside. looks like an awsome alternative to thick padding or heat sheilds for your firewall or exhaust tunnel. way better than a tar undercoating sealant, but gives sound deadending and heat protection. Stuff was called "Lizard skin" I am VERY interested in this stuff to seal up the seams on my 240 and get the heat and sound deadener protection as well. Anyone heard of it? He showed me magazine articles etc on the stuff so it has been around for at least a little while. This guy does custom hot rod stuff only, and I've known him for a long time, and this doesn't look like some snake oil... I'm going to do some more research on it first, but I may end up trying it. The 240 interior is currently stripped out, so this is my only shot at it. If I can clean up the under side of my 280 enough, I may try it near tranny tunnel and firewall area to protect my feet from the heat of the turbo.. Looks promising so far...

Quick question folks. I could not find an exact answer. I did a couple of searchs and only found spec's that people were "recalling" I remember my spec of the hub spacer to fit the 300zx hub on my 280. 314 thou. But I can't find it for the 240. I know it is thicker.. Anyone?

Jon, I guess you are talking about typical cages with the forward hoop (around the windshield area) I do agree that most bolt in cages, in fact every street cage I have seen is not much better as far as bars encroaching into the cabin. Ie at the MSA show last year, I don't think I saw one car that had a really good roll cage in it. Lots of pretty ones though..hehe I only have my own cage as an example and it is totally custom and is VERY tight to the roof and door opening (lucky to cram a finger between it and the body at the widest point.) That, and I'm only 5ft 7, and have lots of room in there for me. Though to clarify further, a street cage to me is a proper roll bar with the extensions that link to the strut towers, and maybe some side bar intrusions. Anything more is pretty extreme for a street car. And banging your head on metal in a 50mph crash from a distance of 6" or 3" is negligable in the end. Proper design is critical to elimate or reduce these risks. Saying all cages for the street are dangerous is way too general. I'd rather think of the risks and using the best resources and info I can find do what I can to reduce the risks, as opposed to saying it can't be done, and doing nothing. I'm not talking about joe normal in his 200hp Z. I'm talking about joe crazy with his 500hp street Z. Less crazy...less safety required. Glad to see the responses and I hope it makes people think about it for even a second. After that, safety is your choice and responsibility. Peace.

"I am kinda somewhere in the middle on this one. I agree with Aux, that this is kind of like a bunch of guys standing around in a garage bench racing and drinking beer. You have to accept some of it and try not to take it so seriously" Yup. I'm a pretty easy going guy. I aggree that we are like a bunch of guys standing around in a garage, bench racing and drinking beer.... lets keep reasonably polite, and drink premium beer!

If your only running 14's, I'd suggest avoiding the burnout boxes.. (unless you have drag tires and need to heat em up) I have beat on my car for years at a time, and even now, I run stock nissan U joints. (on another note, I have very little squat, and my halfshafts sit almost parallel to the ground when the car is sitting) and they stay that way most of the time, so I believe I am getting max power distribution through the shafts... i must, because I have had the car for 14 years, and am only on my 3rd set of ujoints I went through my second set rather quick when I drove a whole year on the street with a welded 3.9 diff!!! It always figures that a hard to find part is the part that breaks... make sure you buy a back up to bring... I bring a complete halfshaft with me when i go to the track.. at least I can change it and get home easily enough.. as long as I haven't damaged anything else. At our track events, someone always brakes something. Not exactly a great track record for the club, but it happens with these old cars.. Good luck to all of you!

Well before trying that, do you have a stock sender? Ie I have my stock 280z sender in my VG30ET block. fit right in.. not sure about a DET block, but hey, give it a whirl..just try it by hand!

Yea I suppose it can sound kinda preachy to those that know better. I just want people to think about it. I do agree the bumpers are a joke, it was the general idea of taking some element of crash protection out in the name of lightening the car. I don't agree with the no cage/ or roll bar stuff.. except if your tall and it is not padded or intrudes into the compartment too much.. as far as hitting your head on the metal, have you looked at the door openings or the roof around the window? its metal right?.. not much padding there... might be sheet metal, but a human head makes a poor mallet for shaping sheet metal. I do FULLY aggree that a cage should be professionally built/installed and designed. Roll bars asside, for the average street car can be a bit much...but if you have a 500hp street car..that could be considered a bit much as well.. safety to match the threat.. Sooo crash avoidance is extrememly critical. brakes, suspension, wheels, tires, steering, proper seat belts to hold you in so you operate the car properly.. I don't even have to get into driver training...nuf said on that one. Thanks John you are absolutely right, I just barely touched on safety. I would think these kinds of considerations should be the first thing you consider when planning a project. might make a good sticky.. (once some of the preachy stuff is removed ehehehe) I may not be all that young anymore (33), but I have WAY too many dead friends/family/aquaintences/co workers from auto related mishaps, and this topic passes through my head from time to time..

You want oldskool? Try 13's! I had a friend that had 13x8's with 235/35/13's on them(approx..I'm sure of the width. and that they were 13's) They looked HUGE even though they were not all that wide. The car looked mean with them on it.. I wish I had pictures. I almost bought those rims... way back in 1989. Talk about an instant lowering job and unsprung weight reduction!!