ZR8ED

Well we are getting up to our eyeballs in the z engine bay right now. I am currently installing a rather large I/c in my 280Z. I'm looking for sources for pipe..straight pieces or prebent..doesn't really matter. 2 5/8's is my i/c's inlet/outlet.. sooo 2.5" ought to do it..I can have it stretched a bit to adapt it...but mainly at this point I'm looking for a source for piping.. if they have locations in Canada, even better... Thanks.. 78 280Z Z31 turbo engine with a volvo i/c

Unless your are balls to the wall flat out racing..then I believe the drum setup is plenty capable....that is with upgraded front brakes. I have the 4 Runner calipers with the 300zxt vented rotors with metal master pads.. I have stock aluminum drums in the back. I had several repeated highspeed braking action from 148mph while racing with a Ferrari, and I stomped those brakes with all the force they could suffer, and let me tell you.. it is a good thing I have racing harnesses in the car...IT STOPS!!!!!!!!! I have pushed the car for 20+ laps at a time at local race tracks that my club rents, and never had braking problems...(stock front brakes with good pads not withstanding) that is why I upgraded the fronts anyways.. until I start pushing 400+ hp neither I nor my race car builder/mechanic are too concerned.. Worry about the fronts.. they do 70% of the stopping anyways..

Lookin Good James. Q for you though... I can't see the roll cage tieing in to the rear suspension towers. I can see the main hoop and the bars going into the rear of the car. Is it just not visible in the pics.. It really should be tied in. I'll email you some pics of mine if you like. Don't mean to pick it out..just wondering..400+hp is not too be taken lightly as I'm sure you know.. Scott.

I've been wrestling with this problem for some time now. After my turbo swap..I found my 4.11 R200 was just too much gear and did not allow me to fully spool the turbo before shifting.. 1-3rd gear anyways... Soooo I swapped in a 3.7 diff I found myself in an unusual situation again...I could not attain full boost till third gear???? Sooo I swapped in a 3.54 diff... FULL boost...the car got faster everytime I swapped in a taller diff..cool! You'd think I was satisfied? NO SIR! I have a 3.7 lsd diff staring at me here...LSD I said... I'm not sure if I should try it.. it will cost me a pretty penny to open it up and swap crown gears to change it to a 3.54 lsd... (diff is used in my daily driver..88 300zxt) Question is should I even bother..I'm not sure why I could not achieve full boost with the other diffs..but by simply swapping the 3.54 it cured it instantly. We figured at the time it was because the engine was not under enough load. What do some of the turbo guys use for ratios? the difference between a 3.54 and a 3.7 is 5%..it can't be that big a deal is it? should I try and run the lsd as a 3.7? Traction is an issue for me...If I could launch harder I'm sure I could really break into some low ET's... I want the lsd...but I don't want too low of a ratio (numerically high) I know some of the really high hp folks here are going the other way with diff..ie 3.36's or lower (numerically) ratios. This car is pretty quick with a 3.54 diff right now...seems a long way from my N/A days with a 4.11 hehehe Am I crazy? was the car possibly not running right with the 3.7 to not get full boost in the lower gears? 13psi can be had in any gear now... AHHHH can anyone shed some light on me?..its dark up here in winter time. Thanks.

Well I happen to be one of the "done that" guys. I have a VG30T in my 78 280Z. It IS a PITA. lots of custom stuff.. I could have dropped in a V8 for a small fraction of the cost and time...but I like to be different... There is a large article I wrote over at the Zdriver.com site cronicling the swap. It is not a technical article, but has plenty of info of what is involved..some good pics too. And no it doesn't fit very well in the engine bay....the turbo interferes with the frame and steering... Thanks, Scott.

Thanks guys for the info. I have all new fuel hardware. 125psi 70 gph++ pump. pressure reg with vacuum etc.. I am just trying to squeak out a bit more power.. it seems I one summer..heck not even the summer..I have almost maxed out my motor. I can tweek some more, but I'm on the cusp of needing larger turbo and injectors. funny though I swore all summer that the car ned not be faster than it was...just more driveable...hehehe the stock boost didn't last more than a week or two... I've tried as much as 15psi, but have settled into 13psi..my I/C is still sitting here in a box waiting to be installed... I have been waiting for 4 months on a special oil cooler, as my stock one is right in the path of my I/C. But that is all to change. My oil cooler has arrived this week. Now all I have to do is wait for an opening in the shop and redo the oil cooler setup..starting at the block. THEN I can start installing the I/C. THEN I can start cranking up the boost some more, THEN I will run out of fuel, and need new injectors...THEN I can turn the boost up some more..THEN I will need a new turbo to handle more boost..THEN THEN THEN..aaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Where will it end? Boost junkie

I checked many manufacturers of tires.. a 245 is about as big as it gets.. there are 255/50/16's out there..but nothing else..I have to becareful of the diameter as well.. traction is an issue...filling in huge wheel wells is the other.. the flares are massive...a little bit of vanity jabing at the issue too. hehehe 17" wheels are a snap to get wide rubber...

I know I'm crazy already, but is this just tooooo far? I want/need to fill out my new flares, and would like to stuff 275 wide rubber in there.. (yes it fits) I have currently 16x9 rear wheels, and I found a 275/45/16 tire made by Hoosier. I also found a 265/45/16 tire by another mfg (the name escapes me at the moment) Anyways.. the hoosiers are dot legal race tire...i guess similar to a bfg R1 or a yokohama A008 Pretty darn sticky, and they will wear out fast...and they suck in the rain...SOOOOO I don't drive in the rain as it is, and the car sucks in the rain already... I don't put a lot of mileage on the car, and when I do, I demand good handling all the time. Question is, am I going to kill myself driving around with these tires on my Z? I need the width..that is the problem, and there is almost nothing very large in a low profile 16" tire... I have heard of some guys in my club switching to the racing style Proxis tires, to get the width they need for their 14" rims, and are putting up with the high tire wear... Check out the Hoosier website and look at the road race tires that are dot legal... Opinions..? (and no I don't want to sell my 16" rims..they are WAYYY to expensive to replace) Thanks, Scott.

When I had the first 12 points installed, the car was pretty solid..it had good floors, rockers, etc... I had it on a hoist, and was lifting on the frame rail at the firewall, and lifted the rear by the seatbelt mounting location... (it is the main structural box that all of the z's measurements are taken from.. Now I lift the car by the same rear mount. (the roll bar portion of the cage mounts above that point) the front now lifts at the front part of the cage were it goes from the firewall/floor mount to behind the compression rod mounting point. Sure makes lifting the car a snap with it being sooooo low to the ground. Oh and i left the front and back top tower braces in, and the triangulating braces in the engine bay in (4 braces in total that were already in the car when I started.) The doors clunk perfectly, and all the seams are the same as they were before I started...The car does not rattle or creak anymore.. The entire cage was installed with most of the interior still in place, and comes within mm of touching in many many places..it goes around the dash within 1/2 inch too. Looks real slick, and is a super tight fit. You can hardly notice it from outside the car unless you really look for it.

I've been toying with ideas to increase hp, and I apparently am nearing a dead end in regards to injector capacity. Would simply increasing the fuel pressure help me at all? I'm running 12+ psi of boost with stock fuel pressure. (I have an aftermarket pressure reg) I'm not really looking for a specific answer, but if someone could direct me to a website with information, I should be able to sift though it and figure something out. Thanks.. My goal is 450hp. Easy to say, hard to acomplish.

I'd sure like to know too. I'm looking at putting on larger injectors on my z31T but just don't know all that I need...I also really need to keep it all in Canadian $$ I too have looked at the Jim Wolf set up, but it is just too much with the exchange...So I'm looking for other mfg of injectors that I can easily access at a parts store that will fit..... 450hp is my final goal..sounds easy to say eh? hard to accomplish..

Hey I run a 245/45/16 on a 16x9 rim with stock suspension...with 3-4 coils cut out..with a mild flare it fit just fine BFG comp TA is what I'm currently running I'm looking to go wider with my new adapters and soon to be installed coilovers.. I've been looking at Hoosiers..thay have a 275/45/16 that will fit....well I have to fill in my new 6" flares some how...

Well it has been one very trying week for me and my Z. I knew I should have just forked over some large bills and bought an electronic boost controler...but NOoooo I have to try to do it on my own, and save some money... Well I tried out my boost controler that I ordered through an industrial supply store. It looks identical to the Hallman boost controler. I ordered one with a spring that is rated from 0-25psi...I'm starting to wonder if I was shipped the correct one. I tried it in several settings, and the best I could get from it was an 11psi spike that dropped off almoost instantly to stock boost levels (7psi) I tried several variations, and even added different springs...same result. I then tried unhooking the wastegate actuator and tried to SOME kind of boost again..it was actually getting worse?? After learning that the wastegate not only lets excess boost off...it actually holds it in till the actuator senses the right boost level...ah ha! I had a stiff spring holding the wastegate closed for this experiment (testing the wastegate itself)...the spring was not stiff enough to hold back sufficient boost!! what an idiot I was hahahaha...(more work on car..less beer) I then removed the spring in the controler again and put in one that seemed WAYYY to stiff...but I was obviously trying to learn here at the same time. Sooo off for a test drive. I was very careful..not knowing what the boost would be like..so I eased into the throttle in 3rd gear...the rpms came up, the boost started to rise, the WHAMMMMM!!!!!!! I was pinned to the head rest and holding the wheel for my life! I was watching that boost guage very closely, and it went past my boost goal, and kept going I took my foot off the gas, but not before my boost guage buried itself past 20psi. I am one lucky son of a bitch let me tell you.. there doesn't seem to be anything wrong, and there is no blue smoke pouring out....it was only a split second, but I have a better understanding of Einstiens theory..I think I may actually have gone back in time! Well it felt like it anyways... Well that same spring is still in there, and there was plenty of adjustment in it to get it down to my boost goal...Only one little problem...I have a boost spike if I FLOOR IT..If I get on the a little less agressive..the boost is stable... I'm wondering if my controller is too close to the wastegate actuator, and there is a bit of extra boost until that ballbearing unseats itself...there is only a few inches of hose, and most of it is steel....i wonder if it does not allow for enough expansion, therfore the boost spike? I was thinking of adding some more rubber hose to it and see what happens..and that spring that came with it..junk. too weak,maybe I did get the wrong part after all? So to wrap this up..the thing does work...it only cost me about 25 dollars..has 2 moving parts, is solid brass, and took 8 hours of putting the car on a hoist (easier access) up and down, up and down, up and down, up and down..whew I'm dizzy now...hehe And to think I'll have to do it all over again when the I/C is finished... Am I a glutton for punishment or what?...O Well..25psi sure was wicked....is that what I have to look forward too? I must be sick...

These turbo's sure are addictive. I think my new nickname should be "Boost Me More Baby!" I finaly have my new boost controler ready for testing. Ya I probably should have spent the money up front and bought some kind of electronic one, but I seem to always do something the hard way just for the challange... I'll take some pics of it soon I hope. It is getting tougher now on the car...I have to scrape the windows on the car more often. That forces me to put the z in the garage..and unfortunately block it in with 2 vehicles behind it...sure makes it a pain to get the car out when I want it. But I plan on another big push to get it out and test some more... 14 psi baby! here I come... Scott. Boost me some more Baby! "GDP" (Gross Destructive Power).

Hi Norm. If you have to make holes for the water passage into the N42 head, then it is not a turbo gasket. I always used a felpro turbo head gasket with my N42 head with no probs... Scott. Boost junkie.

Well since I don't know how to do links very well.. here goes... BTW some people think I like my Z too much...what do you think? Scott. http://zdriver.com/rides/detailride.php?vehId=41

I would like to thank everyone for the kind words. Now lets see if I can answer all those Q's.. 1 The belly pan is horizontal under the car. It attaches at the same mounting points as the black strip under the airdam. 2 You guys will laugh, but that black strip is actually ABS plastic lawn edging! It is flexible enough to absorb minor impacts..especially since the car is so low. 3 The suspension uses cut springs..with about 3-4 coils cut out. The car sits almost 3" off the ground @ the frame rails under the floor. Hmm I guess that makes the drop approx 3" total. 4 I am running about 1 degree camber with that set up. The tires are balding on the inside because of that..that and they are 5 years old now. ( I had the alignment done, and the car checked out just fine) 5 I have the plans for another rear belly pan, but it requires me using a fuel cell...so that will have to wait for some time. 6 Oh and the paint work?...hehe it photographs pretty good..that paint is Acrylic Enamel that is 1990 Porsche guards red...that I had painted in 1990. Not bad for almost 12yr old paint. Hmm is that it? Thanks again all. Hmm maybe I should dig up my roll cage shots? Scott.

The belly pan is made up of 18 guage aluminum. It actually helps cooling. I ran some pretty hard runs at the dragstrip, and it was in the low 80's, and my temps didn't climb one bit. If you are using a cell, you really should think of the rear pan. The race car where I got these tricks from, picked up another few hundred rpm on the back straight with it....BTW the drip rail is good for 200rpm more in the 150mph+ range...(also track proven) I use a floor jack, or I use the hoist at the shop. I lift by the rear sway bar mount, and by my rollcage..were it goes from the footwell/firewall...to behind the compression rod..there is a horizontal bar there..(sorta in the wheelwell..) Scott.

Well as a guy who has some recent experience in this realm.. My Z31T transplant in my 78 280Z..I can say that is can't be harder than a Z32 swap. I too thought about swapping in a TT driveline. My mechanic who did my swap had a tt driveline sitting in the shop throughout my whole swap. We hummed and hawwed for over a year about that engine. But I just could not swing the extra money needed to do it. (this driveline is complete minus I/C, MAS, and the ecu) it does have the entire wiring harness though. The cost for those parts just put it out of my ball park. It will physically fit, there is almost 1/2 inch clearance between the shock towers...so tower mods may be neccessary. The turbos hang low just like the Z31T so you will have frame and steering mods for sure. Wiring would be no harder. and as far as plumbing i/c's etc..you would be going custom anyways..and besides there is a ton of room out front of the engine anyways. It will work..but there sure aren't any manuals for it..or any pre fabbed motor mounts and any other brackets you may need. I needed to have them all custom designed and built by hand. If you are a good mechanic/machinist..you could easily get away with it..if you had to pay someone...I had to pay 100hrs labour just to install my motor... And if you do go for it..make sure you do it safe..you don't want a motor mount or steering mod to break at 150mph!...or worse.... Scott.

Thank you very much Lone for posting the pics. They turned out great! Thanks for the compliments on my car! Scott.

Hmm my knowledge in the area is weak at best. I found a pile of I/C's for sale at Zcar.com I ended up buying one from a guy who posted several there. He sent me a couple of pics of this same type of I/C in a Z, so I hope it will work ok for me..at least I know it will fit..max dimensions at 23"X18" 2 5/8" inlet/outlet, and it is a crossflow design...Oh yea..it is from a Volvo. I could not pass it up for the price..I just hope I did the right thing.. Scott.

Thanks guys for all your input. You have managed to talk me out of the "in car" controler. Too many hassles for what would end up being a novelty. Besides, who am I kidding, ZR8ED turning the boost down? Bwahahahaha!!!! I found through industrial parts cataloges the same valve as the hallman unit. It is adjustable from 5-25psi and is a ball and spring type. looks like I will go that route and be done with it. I will get it done asap. And since my I/C is not here yet, I guess I will being doing it all again anyways..am I a glutton for punishment or what? Thanks again. Scott.

I have no idea how to post pics(no site to host them either) Can anyone post my pics for me? I only have a couple of the car/engine/bellypan. Email me ZR8ED@hotmail.com and I can send them to whoever wants to post them. Thanks, Scott.

I have been plagued by boost controller woes, and i just don't want to spend huge dollars on an electronic one. I have my manual one mounted under my hood. My mechanic put it there to keep me from killing myself racing a viper or something. hehehehehehehe I want to move it to inside the car so I can turn it up when i want to run the car hard...I fooled my mechanic by just cranking the boost all she could suffer and just leaving it like that all the time. hehehehehe It sure would be nice to be able to turn it back down for everyday driving. SOOOOOO I'm starting to check out parts catalogs looking for some kind of valve that I can put in the car that I can mount under my centre counsole, and just have a plain knob stick up through the console...maybe two settings written on it..hehe "Fast" and "Hang on" hehehe Is anyone using a manual controler like that? or are most people that are in the same "crazy" bracket as me just using electronic controlers? Scott.

I had a belly pan installed in the front of my car. I had my mechanic copy a design he did on a z race car that tops 185mph on the back straights at Mosport. (not a Z engine in that z either.) Anyways all this talk about lift and wind tunnel testing to reduce risk of death has been tested and beaten to death by Z racers racing in imsa and GT1 and GT2 classes for years now. I don't know how many full race Z cars are actively racing in your area, but I have several that I'm friendly with, and I copy their tricks on my street car..I also buy some of their used equipment...including my 1 of a kind rear body kit I'm installing this winter. BTW my front belly pan follows the curve of my air dam, and has cut aways for my front tires, and goes all the way back to my cross member (at the same level) my air dam goes lower than my crossmember. I used 18 guage aluminum sheet 58X32" and had it cut to the shape of my airdam after building a cardboard cut out. I do not have one on the tunnel or rear of the car. It was not nessesary on my street car. The rear pan is supposed to go up at an angle, and requires the use of a fuel cell... pretty serious speeds require this mod. I did this mod for 4 reasons. 1 better handling 2 better cooling by smoothing air to rad 3 better mpg by less under car turbulence 4 looks mean Scott.