Jump to content
HybridZ

mainboyd

Members
  • Posts

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

mainboyd last won the day on June 24 2021

mainboyd had the most liked content!

About mainboyd

  • Birthday 09/22/1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fresno, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

3757 profile views

mainboyd's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  • One Month Later Rare
  • One Year In Rare
  • Week One Done Rare

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. I was actually going to go with an idea similar to yours. I think they call it a hydro brake. Super simple set up and a lot cheaper than buying two parking brake calipers. But I decided to go the mechanical rout because I feel safer that it is independent of the main brake lines. Makes me “feel” a little safer on the road. Also, in wonderful California, not sure about everywhere else, requires that you have a mechanical (cable) parking brake. Maybe controlled (on/off) electronically but still using a cable. Don’t quote me on this because I only did a single search to find this out.
  2. The wilwood will fit the smaller wheels. I’m not sure about the rear Brembo’s. I guess it all depends on the diameter of your rotors. My rotors are 13 inch front and rear. The front Brembo calipers barely won’t clear the smaller wheels. Maybe if I had smaller rotors and design the brackets a little shorter they might. Pictures of my custom front and rear setup are on this thread.
  3. Oh yea that’s a really good point. I’m glad you mentioned that.
  4. Man I really do wish I could see this in person or at least see some pictures. So the first spark plug (front one) was aligned with the front axle. So you were super close to making it a legit front mid engine Z. I think another 6 inches then that would make it possible? Not sure on the exact measurements because I’m just eyeballing it. That’s actually why I’m interested because I want to do the same. I want to just make sure I know what I’m getting myself into. I have some machining and welding experience for fabricating things. But for the things I know I will run into is the transmission tunnel clearance, ground clearance for oil pan and figuring out how to still switch gears in a manual transmission. If I’m going to move forward on this then I’ll start a new build thread but I would still like to see if anyone can provide any pictures and information on this topic.
  5. Just lowered and not moved back? what made you want to drop it 20mm?
  6. I guess it makes sense why I see highly modified cars have a fuel pump switch to have the pump running constantly before starting the engine.
  7. I purchased the kit just last month from summit racing. So far I don’t see any leaks on the ground or any kind of smell in the garage. Hopefully I dodged a bullet. thanks for the heads up.
  8. I’m very curious to how that build went. Like the placement of the shifter or transmission tunnel clearance (was there clearance for the transmission because it was lowered 2”) or how the firewall was fabricated or, what was already mentioned, clearance from the ground for the oil pan. I have so many questions. I wish there were pics of at least the final stage of it.
  9. That’s how mine is currently. I haven’t really tested it yet because I’m in the process of changing out the old fuel rail and injectors. Reason why I went this route was because I was going to cut out an access hole in the spare tire section so that I can get to the fuel pump if needed rather than dropping the tank. Also, the cut out hole will not be seen since it’s in the spare tire area. The hole cut out from the spare tire section is not left open. I can close it back up with screws just like the same concept of how now the fuel pump system is mounted on the gas tank. Also, while it was all out I used POR15 to clean and seal the inside of the tank. This is also on my IG @ideation_z along with other mods I have done to the z. In the pictures, I intentionally have the fuel pump in that angle because the fuel strainer is also slightly angled. So with how the fuel pump is angled, the fuel strainer is now sitting parallel with the tray. Also, it avoids creating a 90 degree bend on the supply hose from the fuel pump. Warning!! I’m not sure if you will have an easy time finding that type of strainer. I contacted Walbro and they don’t offer it anymore. I was lucky enough to find what the guy suggested in the YouTube clip as a secondary at Napa Auto Parts (local auto parts store) but they only had one and it was at their main warehouse and I also found another one on ebay.
  10. Ok NewZed, that was a really good and clear explanation from that link! Nice find and thank you very much for sharing that. I guess the aftermarket FPR are another component in your build that you can use for fine tuning if necessary? Back to the drawing board and back to the OP. To answer the OP: Long story short, I should be fine with the 11/16” ID fuel rail. As long as I have adequate fuel pressure in the fuel rails. Which is mostly determined by the fuel pump and a good FPR. Second question, what’s a good FPR?: Basically, it’s a personal preference but can possibly be based on the build. If you want a FPR to hold pressure for longer than a few seconds or possibly a few days when the fuel pump is not running then a factory FPR is the way to go. A aftermarket engine management system will also help with the air:fuel ratio adjustment. I guess that sums it up for the thread? Unless we can share what FPR are out there that would work best for the L-series engine with various hp ranges? Maybe that’s another new thread or something that has already been discussed in another thread. I can at least now go ahead and machine the fuel rail extrusion and start assembling.
  11. You make a good point about not needing a FPR if I already have a aftermarket engine management. But how would the management system (I have MS2) regulate the fuel pressure on its own if the factory FPR is not adjustable? If I were to turn up the boost in the future then how would I make sure I have the ratio I am needing and know the factory FPR is not restricting my flow? I’m being honest here, I am no expert in this exact field of work.
  12. Yep I read that forum a couple days back when trying to figure all this out. I assume that’s why businesses selling aftermarket fuel rails offer an option for a cold start valve on the fuel rail? Seems like there might not be an effective and cheaper way to fix this. Just going to have to crank a tad bit longer till it starts… I’ll give it a little more thought but not too much because I want my z back on the road.
  13. Yea I noticed that too while posting it. I guess it’s foolish thinking to think the best of someone and simply take their word for it. At least in today’s world.
  14. Does anyone happen to know if John Coffey documented his S30 build where he moved the L engine back 6 inches? He said in a post “The stock L6 engine moved back 6" and down 2" gives a 48F/52R weight distribution with a composite hood and hatch.” In this forum: When searching for it I was reminded again of the loss. I never knew him but it is still very sad to know he is gone. But his knowledge is still spread out through hybridz for us to learn from. Any info about that specific build would be greatly appreciated.
  15. I got confirmation back directly from Deatsch Werks. I asked them if their product holds pressure after the pump has primed the fuel and has turned off and/or if the car has been sitting for a day. They said, “I spoke with my Tech Staff, and it’s the check valve in your pump that maintains the pressure, probably for about a day, but it holds fluid in the lines indefinitely” It makes me feel a little more confident in their product but not 100%. Maybe going the rout that NewZed shared would be the way to go.
×
×
  • Create New...