skyline240z

Yeah, those are my mounts on eBay. I'm going to be making some more soon, so if anyone wants some, let me know. I have one set left right now. I sell them direct and on eBay. If anyone needs more info on oilpan conversions for a Z, you can also check out McKinney Motorsports in California http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com Rick

Hi Joel Nice parts, did you already bought your torque plate, cause I have one here that I'm not using for now. Let me know Rick

Hi there Joel forwarded your link to me on hybridz, I have the motor mounts for a rb 26 to a 240z conversion. They are CNC machined from billet Alum, If you like, I can e-mail you some pics. Rick P.S. How is your engine rebuild going Joel.

Why would you want 255's for the front, I hope your stearing wheel is big enough to turn them.

Yes, these spacers only work for the front only. Rick

The 1.25 inches strut spacers should clear the 15'' rims, I don't see why not, there is alot of room left on the my car with 14'' stock wheels. I sold them before, it should work. Rick

I machine and sell 3/4 inch billet aluminum spacers. Email me if you're interested and I can send you a picture, or check them out on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=42609&item=2446413337 You can buy them direct from me for $50 US plus shipping, includes high-grade bolts. I also have a set of 1-1/4 inch spacers available if you lowered your car 2 inches. Rick

Nice, but too much $$$ for us Z guys,

Hi Blackz Who told you that I won't do another conversion, I just got another z car and will do another as soon as I get an engine, If you want me to do yours, give me an email and we'll talk. Rick

Hi Alien-e These mounts will bolt to the stock 240z cross member with different rubber insulators, the only thing you need to do is to drill a 12mm hole on each side of the cross member for the rubber insolators bolts. With my alum mounts, you will not need to alter anything to the motor, everything fits right in. Rick

I agreed with stony, the tinging sound is from the turbo blades, you can hear it trying to speed up. No need to guess, that motor needs to be taken apart I hope he will get his money back from the importer. Rick

Hi Michael Sorry for jump down on you, It just seems like every one don't think it is a fear price. It starts out with R&D work, then make up DWGs, then it needs a cnc programer to program the shape, the material which is Alum about $50, then machined with a cnc machine which goes for $80/hr. The list goes on, these mounts are Not mass produced cause there are only a hand full of people who are doing it, hope you would understand. Rick

Hey Michael_240z If you don't know why I only charged $250, then you should not be in the forum. People here at least know a thing or two about how hard it is to make a one off or a few off custom parts. Rick

Hi Zachb55 I don't have that car anymore, I sold it to mx666 (mike). I will do another rb conversion as soon I get another rust free 70 or 71 shell. Rick

Hi bob How is the rb conversion comming, saw your 280z ad the other day. Rick

Hey RB If you use the rb wires with the Apexi stand alone ecu, you will have a problem with the hook up of the tach, it will not work when you hook it up to the tach wires. Stony and Brad both usese the SDS system, they did not have the Amp to voltage problem. Rick

I'm 90% sure that he got a $2150 LEMON. Rick

I would be too if that was me. Rick

What's with the Stony and Badass260 name, and who is the guy that said your car was his. Rick

That is around how much I've sold for. Rick

Hi Alex What, your brother's firend is selling his fairlady, ask him how much does he wants to sell it for, cause I'm also interested. Thanks Rick

It went for $2150, pretty cheap for all the parts, it maybe a con.

Hi there That is not a bad price, but you have to consider what shape of the engine is in also, don't just think that is a good 30 or 60 thousand km, not all motors went through the same abuse. I can do that conversion for you too if you want, you can ckeck out my work. I'm the first few people who have done that conversion. check out my mounts for sale on ebay and check out my old car, also check out the link to my car. Hi Bob, looks like you are helping someone out this time Rick

Hi Boobala, If you are talking about mounts for a car versus an airplaine, they are two totally different things. I do make aircraft parts for Boeing and Bombardier, and the procedure to go through making a part is much more intense in papertrails (you know what I'm talking about) and making the part is again another thing. You have to find the right grain structure of the material for the best stress resistance and all radiuses must be put on in all corners and the part must go through a few stages of stress relief and shot penetration to release any levels of stress, and then go through x-rays or ultrasound in order to pass inpsection for an airplane. Now if you want all those levels to be done for a car, it could be done, but the price of the mounts would be over $1000 easily. But like you said, the rubber insulators will reduce most of the vibration of the motor already, so the corners will be okay. You are also right, ideally everything should be radiused, which I could do right now, and the center section will be thinner. Next time, I'll put a small radius in there to satisfy my toughest critics I'll try to post some more pics from other angles of the mounts soon. Rick

Thanks, Stony, for backing me on this one too. Like Brad and Stony, they both have the RB26 motors in their Z's, they both know how much torque the motor puts out. To my experince as a machinist, I'm 100% sure that the frame will bend or break first before the mounts will ever crack. Thanks, Rick