kroegarn

I´ve got some experience (7 years) from endurance racing and first of all make sure that pads, fluid and cooling ducts are up for the task of handling the heat. Since that does not seem to be a problem in your case, the biggest improvement by far, that the team experienced was when we did a proper corner weighting!! We had driven a few races after a major chassi overhaul and braking was all over the place, but after the CW braking efficiency was spot on. So I´d say, fix you dampers and get lower treadwear tires (if it is allowed?), then get coils and do a proper CW. Could perhaps still do a CW without coilovers by moving weights or stuff around in the car... but could get a bit tedious Edit: The car discussed above is a BMW M3, not the Datsun... just to clarify

YES plz buy from Joe!! I´ve ordered in Mars and still waiting for him to get enough buyers to make it worthwhile...... winter here in Sweden so now is a good time to fiddle with the Z !

This is my solution. Recaro seats from a mid/late 90-someting Rover (option from factory). It was a tight fit and you needed small hands to bolt the seats into the car. . Had Momo racing seats before... but getting old and wanted more comfort. Unfortunately dark and crappy pictures...

I ended up ordering the stub axles and companion flanges from Chequered flag!! Now it´s all about waitiiiiiing for them to arrive and get that Z back on the ground!

I was a bit unclear, but my stub axle only has 25 splines so buying the 27 spline adapter would also require the Chequered flag stub axle (or equivalent).

Great... but just realised that I have the 240Z stub axle and not the 27 spline 280z version . With the now weak Swedish Krona I´ll have to at least investigate a more local solution.

Thanks guys for all your input! I had the stub axles over to a friend of mine where we could put them up in his lathe. The stubs themselves are actually pretty straight and fine BUT the adaptor plates seems to be the culprit. Not sure if I can find any machine shop that can balance them, otherwise I´ll have to source myself a set of new ones. Regarding where they are from I actually don´t know, but they look like this (one is modified for the speed sensor):

I´m doing a rear end overhaul. Had a bad clonking noise which came from the rear diff, had the OBX diff overhauled and also tightened up the backlash a bit. Second part up was the really bad vibration that showed up at speeds above 100 mph. Used a indicator dial at the adaptor plate for the 280 ZX Turbo drive axle, and it showed a difference of 1 mm. It was even possible to see the wobble with your own eyes. Removed the strut and using the indicator dial on the stub itself it wobbled a 1/10 of a millimeter on the left side, the right side was a lot better but not perfect. Is this something that is common? Will it happen again using the stock stub axles when trying out the surface grip with the 512 whp??

I have the Seibon hood and the finish and fitment is great. Only downside, if you would called it that, is that is not carbon fiber through and through. Carbon fiber topped fiber glass is what it looks like on the inside. Some miscellaneous pix here: http://www.garaget.org/?car=335170 http://www.garaget.org/mypage/gallery.php?user=476&album=52320

Expensive??

Looks good and thumbs up for your perseverance! I have a 1JZ-GTE with the same turbo HE351CW and it spools quite ok, perhaps not dumb fast, but I dont have anything to compare with? On the 1bar map I get full boost at 3500 rpm and on the 1.75 bar map I get full boost at around 4100 rpm. I suppose that i quite ok, the car puts out 396 whp@1bar and 512 whp@1.75bar on a mustang dyno so it pulls for sure... well actually only slips with street tires (even with 275/40 on the rear) , Kumho V700 ready in the garage though.

Put myself through some painstaking work by painting the car myself in my own garage . So if transformed from pretty worn black matte to a fairly shiny white, it will though need a proper water sanding + polishing to get shiny all around. And there is still a loooong list of minor to-do´s but I´m slowly getting where I want the car (albeit I had visioned it in a Porsche Signal Orange )

The turbo is just an un-exotic Holset HE351CW, but some BC 264 cams and a Syvecs S6 ECU. The manifold I´m not sure of, but it is not original and a tubular style one.

This is my Z-ride, built in Japan, modified in the US and imported to Sweden by the modifying dude . I got custody of it during the summer of 2013 and now slowly taking the direction of resto mod with track day usability BUT still should be tolarable to drive in somewhat day-to-day use and to the tracks. A bit high on the coils, but that will be corrected soon: The powerplant pushing 512 whp @ 1.75 bar boost (25 psi) /Mike