onephatz

when I installed the second fuel pump, at idle the one zxt pump would was pushing around 40psi. when I turn on the second fuel pump the pressure raised to about 45psi. I don't know what she is running when I drive her down the road but it can't be that much different I would think. I think that I may take the afm off tomarrow to see if everything is working good there. how would you be able to check to see if an injector is not firing correctly. would running a bottle of techron thru it help? am I wrong but isn't this system (stock turbo, stock injectors, stock fuel system) supposed to be able to put down at least 250hp with an intercooler at 14psi or so? AND not destroy itself. I suppose this would explain why it likes to run on the warm side just cruzin down the highway at 70mph. I don't think I am going to run it till I at least get some sort of solution conceived for this thing. I am suprised i haven't melted anything yet. jesse

the 280zxt had 7.4:1 the z31 300zxt had 7.8:1 the z32 300zxtt had 8.5:1

if I had to guess I would say that your wastegate is opening to soon or staying open. jesse

I don't know if I just had some bad gas or weather the dyno more load than it usually sees running down the road, but the darn thing just didn't run right. with the wide band up the tail pipe, it showed a way lean condition under load. it started pinging an knocking and running like crap. funny thing is that after I left the dyno it ran great(still does). I'm running stock 280zxt fuel system stock injectors stock turbo front mount 3" exhaust greddy bov two fuel pumps I can only think of two things that would cause a this lean condition, 1. fuel pumps not pushing enough fuel 2. afm not reading correctly mainly because I've run techron thru the fuel system and have a new fuel filter and a good fuel pressure regulator(stock). am I mistaken or am I supposed to run the fuel pumps in parellel or series. me being a poor college student can't opt for a nice walbro so I am running a stock zxt pump and a stock z pump in parellel to get the extra flow needed. any ideas where I need to start thanks jesse btw. just lost to a sti last night (just 1 car length though)

the way it was explained to me was that what can happen(usually during cold seasons) is that you will experience what he referred to as "the milk shake syndrome" where the water in the crank case will mix with oil cause bearing problems. he said though during dry seasons or warm seasons it's not as much of a concern but during the cold wet seasons water can condense more inside the motor a little more. so.......don't know what will really happen, I have seen that happen in an automatic transmission before though. anyway jesse

yea this is how it is right now. I talked to a guy who said it wasn't really bad not to have a crankcase vent system but it does help clean out some of the stuff that can work past the rings. also helps expel water that can build up in the crankcase. it works well enough at the moment to give enough relief to the turbo not to cause compressor stall. good news though, I have located an actual (used)greddy blow off valve (not a bypass valve) for $50 bucks. after I get it installed I will reinstall the crankcase vent system. then I can just dump to the atmoshpere and not care . got to say that 14psi in a 2600lb car really rocks. I had a good time with a fellow last night who had a 72 chevelle(sp?) and was running mid twelves and I was running a little ahead of him(better hook up). man I'm excited! gettin my car dynoed this next weekend. I'll let ya all know what she puts down. later jesse

I just got my 1g dsm bov installed but if I try to have it vent to the atmosphere the vacume from the intake opens it at ide and causes a lope at idle, but it purges fine when I'm doing a full throttle run. so.... I tryed to vent back to before the turbo by teeing into the line that feeds air into the crankcase vent system. I thought it would work(and it does) but now when I let off the gas after a hard pull I get a nice blue smoke screen behind me when the extra boost shoves the crank case oil particles into the intake. question: can I elminate the crank case circulation system and just put a filter on the valve cover to allow oil expansion space or do you have to have it circulate like it is. also is what I have off a dsm a Blow off valve or a Bypass valve? any ideas? jesse p.s. all i can say is HOLY COW 14psi ! dang this is fun

all the manifolds will be fabricated by me. flanges, pipes, runner,dp ect, me. the cost of the materials is not what worries me. I can do the manifold and flanges for less than $200. what worries me is trying to squeeze it all in the engine bay. the time/patience required will be tremendous, but I feel it's a worthwhile goal. I mean how many people do you know that have a tt L28? it's not just braging rights but it's just down right cool. if you want to see what I have done before check this link out. http://www.missouri.edu/~javg25/turboprobe.html this is this guy's daily driver! it's not the best I've ever done but it works pretty good. not only that but i have this wierd idea that if I were to drop 500 plus on a turbo I wouldn't want to use it. I'd proubly want to put it under glass and stare at it all day and not get it all dirty with exhaust gas . I guess it really doesn't matter what anyone else thinks is real or practical. It's gonna happen weather anyone helps me or not. I was hoping that someone with experience in these matters could have droped some info. so........

got a '75 with an '82 turbo motor in it. running 12psi on stock everything except extra fuel and intercooler. question is, eventually I am wanting to upgrade to twin turbos. not that twins are any better than one single turbo but being the poor college student I am I have to pick my battles. I'm lookin to run twin t-25's off a 2g mist. eclipse mainly because i can pickup one for 50-100 bucks. of course after that kind of upgrade I'm gonna have to have better engine management. ie: the batte I'll lose. I'll proubly end up going with a sds or an elctromotive system which will be quite expensive. flow for those are around 285 cfm per turbo. the reason I chose these is because of my dsm friends telling me that they spool really quickly on a 2.0L 2g. so I figure that two on a 2.8 will spool abit higher but in the end produce more flow. I'm also looking at t-25 for upgrade reasons also. I've been looking into the t28 upgrade path for the eclipse. seems with an upgraded compressor wheel it can support 340hp per turbo! and use the stock compressor housing and turbine houseing. has anyone had any experience with running twin turbos on a L28? if so what kind of turbos and what kind of results are you getting, like hp, spool up rpm, boost drop off? stuff like that. this car is not going to be a daily driver. instead it is going to be pull it out of the garage and whip some A$$ have some fun and go home with a big grin on your face type of car. so........... thanks jesse

hummmmmm no I don't know that. and lemme guess there is nothing that will bolt to the block? yea lots o fabracation. I'm into custom fabbin some things but that would be a little much for me. was wondering cuz friend of mine is picking up three and said one is for parts and could sell me the motor cheap if I could do anything with it. oh well jesse

dohc V-8 w/ tranny will be avaible if I want it. anyone ever done such a thing before? jesse

just figured out why when to http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcompB.html seems with a stock turbo psi your getting around 9:1 compression then when you up the boost to like 14psi your gettin like 12:1 that's more like it. so..... jesse

I have seen a mighty max pickup with a 4g63 in it from an eclipse. he was running around 300hp or so. everything seemed to hold together rather nicely. just my .02 jesse

got a 75 280z with a '82 turbo motor in it. 3" down pipe w/ 3" exhaust cold air intake k&n filter, running stock boost 6psi. front mount is on the way but for now its gotta be stock. all I gots to say is man this thing feels slow. Why? I'll tell ya. Had... a L28 with flatop pistons w/ N-42 head running 10:1 compression with everything else the same except it had a 2.5" presbent exhaust. that motor had a real attiude. I was running with stock awd dsm's. dont really know yet how slow it really is. gonna be going out tonight and next weekend with the dsm boys to see how she runs. bahhhhh jesse

*BRAD D* Is that all 2.5" piping. I have the stock down pipe off the car now and it only measured 2" going into the pipe (booooo). I bought some 3/8 steel to be cut into a new flange, is making a 2.5" opening goint to cause turbulance or should I go 2->2.5->3 for a smoother transition? jesse btw. that thing looks wicked. (me wants one

*****Isn't your exhaust only as big as it's diameter at it's smallest point? I had this very same question when I posed it to a friend of mine who is a mechanical engineer. according to him, and the theory of fluid flow pressure is increased the longer the pipe that you have. so because the total length of pipe is going to be about the same, the only way to decrease the pressure is to increase the size of pipe. on a n/a car you smaller/larger pipe does matter, but because we are dealing with a turbo, it provides all the backpressure that the engine will need. after the turbo the quicker you can get your pipe big, the better. SO. 8' of 3" gives us X amount of back pressure and 1' of 2.5" gives us Y amount of back pressure, then you just add and bang, you have your total resistance. I really wish I could explain a little better, I suppose I will just have to wait for my fluid dynamics class. needless to say the way he explained it made more sense and bigger is better even if you have a few more restrictive areas. there really is no such thing as too big of an exhaust on a turbo car. jesse

hey I've got a '75 with a '82 turbo motor sitting in it. the stock downpipe runs a little to close to the tension rod for me so I wanted to make a new dowepipe for it. question is how big can I go with a stock turbo? the pipe running out of the turbo itself looks rather small. I was going to use a piece of 3" mandrel bent pipe but, to me it looks like it might not fit there. Am I going to have to use a piece of 2.5" and info would be great. jesse

I've been thinking about this combo for some time and wanted to get your thoughts on the matter. I have an L28 out of an 81 non turbo (f54 block) and a L24 out of a '73 I also have a E-31 head. with a L28 block with 1mm overbore, L24 crankshaft, flattop pistons, a mildly ported E31 head and a mild cam, what kind of ceiling would we be talking about RPM wise. this would yield a 2.6L and about 10.2:1 compression and could run on 93 octane pump gas. any ideas what kind of HP would result? I like the idea of being able to run 7-9k rpm when I want to, it makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside . thanks jesse

yea I don't have too much room to install a air filter or a pipe w/ filter if I could subtract about 4" I could run a cold air intake. if not I'll have to try and mount some kind of filter to the afm. besides I want to be able to tune a little better when I turn up the boost.

i've got a '75 with a '82 turbo motor a fuel system in it. i'm a little cramped for space and would like to replace the bulky restrictive stock afm with one from a different car. is there another afm that reads out the same air flow signal as the stock. if not can you use a different afm and a Apexi Super AFC to get the proper voltages/resistances? any info would help thanks jesse

i recently installed a turbo zx motor into a '72 and all i did was T the return line into the feed line from the tank. the pump just keeps looping the extra fuel and sucks only what extra it needs from the tank. it works amazingly well. I used the stock vent line that were fed into the carbs as the return line. good luck jesse

thanks that gives me an idea of where to start thanks jesse

i've read lots about swaping 280zx half shafts into a 240 but what about a 280z. what will i need for the conversion, do i need spacers?, do i need axle stubs, or is it a slide in swap. i have 280zx turbo donor car that has a complete rear suspention. any clues or direction would be helpful i only ask cuz i'm posed to start work on a turbo 280z conversion in the next month and i feel that i need stronger half shafts seeing how i have broken two u-joints with my current n/a setup jesse

only one?