onephatz

ok here is my delema. I have a complete motor setup from a '82 turbo that is currently taken apart. I was wanting to go back in with flat top pistons with my p-90 head giving me 8.5:1 compression. BUT I don't have any flattop piston motors at the moment and I dont' have the time to rebuild my dished piston motor with flattop pistons. I want to shoot for ~400hp and wanted to know how much harder it's going to be for me to achieve this with 7.4:1 compression like on a stock turbo motor vs a motor with 8.5:1 compression ratio? is it going to make a significant difference or only a nickels worth? jesse

don't get me wrong I think the v-8 rumble is cool but the there is something menacing about that high pitched whistle. it's like uh oh, what does this guy have up his sleeve. ya just don't know jesse

I had the same experiance at the chrysler dealership. about 10pm I was comming home from work and decided to stop and check out the new 300C. was walking around it and noticed the doors were unlocked. after climbing in and getting a feel for the car I notice the keys were in the ignition. it took every bit of self restraint I had not to go for a "test" drive that night. I just took the key home with me and returned it to the sales manager the next day. all I got was a thanks .... jesse

I'm 25 married with american family. no tickets. on my '75 z I was paying around $250 for a 6 month liabilty only policy that's with the higher 100-300-100 limits i op for here in MO. just got my '82 maxima insured, it is 350 a year for basic liaiblity with the same coverages as above. so. I think your getting shafted. jesse

just let it vent. doesn't hurt a thing jesse

the z injector is a little coil of wire that has about 2.5 ohms of resistance. in order to limit the amount of current, you need to install an additional resistor in line with each fuel injector or you will burn out the injector driver and sometimes the injector its self. example: voltage/resistance=current -> ----reistor 1------resistor 2------ -> r1+r2=total resistance -> ----injector ------resistor ------- -> injector resisance+addional resistor = total resistance -> -----2.5ohm-------10ohm------- -> 2.5+8=~12.5ohms of resistance since you usually run about 14volts when the car is charging you get the following formula 14volts/12.5ohms = 1.12 amps of current some say that you want to less than two amps so this is ok jesse

75-83 n/a =~180-190cc all the part numbers are the same. http://www.courtesyparts.com/s30-s130_inj.html the voltage is usually 12volts but there is an addional inline resistor to limit the amount of current going thru them. nissan uses a 12ohm resistor inline with all their injectors jesse

well as it turned out the crank pully turned on the harmonic balancer and was throwing off my timing. my dad(mechanic of 30+year) show me the "old way" of setting the timing with a vacume gauge. he said that at idle there should be about 20-21 inches of vacume. I was setting at ~15. cranked the distributor around and she smoothed out, and reved good. jesse

now I know it's not a z but it is it's close cousin. my '82 maxima 2.4L. I recently replaced the head gasket, cam shaft (with z cam),two leaky injectors, and the oxygen sensor. she ran smooth and good before the tear down. now (see below) problem: idling seems ok but does not rev up well(sounds like a miss) and wants to backfire thru the intake manifold. will not pull it's self down the road with the same problems as above checked: fuel pressure ok (32-40psi) tps ok (idle and wot) afm ok (proper resistances) injectors working (checked each with a screw driver) can't find any vacume leaks ignition is set to stock 8 deg btdc adjusted the valves to proper tolerances ignition primary's and secondary's working great (checked with scope) compression good on all cyl. ~175psi each interesting point: when the injector plug on the #1 cyl is removed you can hear a small difference in the engine but not as much as with the other cylinders. I can definatly hear the injector firing but no difference when unpluged. I am kinda at my wits end right now so any ideas would be very welcome thanks jesse

I bought the smaller of the two for my '82 maxima that I just bought. --> http://www.rossmachineracing.com/extrusion.html with all the parts, shipping, and labor(free) I have right at $50 into it. the larger one above is going to go on my z with dsm 450's I am going to do a drawing in autocad and output a jpg file for anyone to download if they like. I'll post a link later. jesse

thanks daw I saw your posts about the n47 heads eariler but didn't know if the notched block of the L24e would be enough for a z cam. I wanted to keep the car's orginal block for now cuz it's only got 66xxx on it. eventually I will put a L28 into her, but for now I'll have to live with the old girl the way she is. another question... does the 280zx computer have a different fuel map that might give me better response, or are they even interchageable. I'm just trying to do the little things for now that will keep it driveable/reliable for a while. thank again jesse

I just bought a '82 maxima with 66xxx miles on it. problem is it's kinda slow(compared to my z . it has the stock L24e motor in it. I had to replace the head gasket and while it was off I figued i could steal a cam off a n-47 z head I have laying around and drop it in the max. my question is: since the block is already notched for the larger valves(stock) can I install a z cam with larger lift without the valves making contact with the block or do I need to cut out the block a little more for valve clearance? thanks jesse

I think the one of the best 4cyl's out is the 4g63. with just a little (and I a mean very little) work the 6bolt 4g63 turbo can be running over 300hp with stock parts. you would have to find a tranny out of a might max pickup but it would be an awsome setup. if you want to stay n/a I would go with a larger displacement motor like a ka24 out a a '92 or newer 240sx. good running long lasting and tons of low end torque(for a 4cyl anyways). these seem to be harder to find anymore with the drifters trying to pick them up also.

funny thing about this car was that he bought it, put new tires on it, then had to rip the heads off the fix a leaky head gasket. it had been sitting for about 4 months before he got it back together. he never did put licence or insurance on the stupid thing(cuz he had another car), so all he would do is go out and do burn outs, then park it till he got another itch for burnt rubber. that's 30,000 miles of tread gone in just a few weeks. oh well, it's not my car jesse

ok ok I can see now. sounds like you have a stock clutch disk with maybe a better pressure plate. I don't really know what the stock pressure of the pressure plate is, but seems yours is stronger than mine(autozone's). from what I gather the stock clutch disk is ok for 300-400hp or so but I don't think my pressure plate is anywhere near that capable. does this sound right or am i speaking out of my ass??? jesse

my friends 300zx turbo http://www.missouri.edu/~javg25/300zxburn-high.mp4 quicktime 3.54mb god i love the smell of burn rubber jesse

I don't know about the stock pressure plate, but I was running 14psi with intercooler and stock electronics. o2 sensor said it was runnin ok, except I had a hella bad overheating problem. all I know is my autozone clutch(for a 82 turbo) started to slip when the 14psi hit. jesse

cronic are you using a "nissan" oem clutch and pressure plate? jesse

I installed a NEW oem clutch from autozone. up to around 10psi is ok then I cranked up the boost to 15psi and added an intercooler. when crusing in 3rd or 4th or 5th and put her to the floor the boost would hit and the rpms would rise to about 4500 rpm and just stick there till the car caught up to the motor. never could get her to spin up past 4500 rpm when it slipped for some reason. I just recently removed my motor and tranny, and the clutch still looked new. I think the word about a stronger pressure plate is correct. jesse

I've got a 75 with a '82 turbo motor and fuel system in it. I'm running the stock ecu with 10psi and a fmic. problem: idling she sits right at 180 all day no problems crusing at 70mph she wants to run around 210 one hard pull and she's running around 230+ I took the thermostat out to see if that was my problem and it still acts the same way. checked the timing, and it's set at 20deg. did a road test where I ran a jumper wire from the o2 sensor(while still hooked up to the computer) inside the car to a multimeter, it was running between .5-.6 volts. everything seems to run right but it just over heats like a monster. I had the same radiator in the car with my high compression l28 and no overheating problems. it also has a new water pump. any ideas? jesse

is there list of possable replacements for my failing r200. where would I find a 4 spider r200? I know where I can get a r230 in a local uwrech it. does the drive shaft have to be modifyed for a r230? I am also interested in putting 3.36 gears in my car. what 280zx came with the 3.36 r200? I also know where I can find a 87 3.7 lsd for a good price, but I would rather keep my 3.54 gears though. don't the 84-86 turbos come with a 12mm 3.54 open r200? thanks jesse p.s. I am gonna swap the rear end out this week and I'll take pictures for ya all.

can anyone please tell me why if the r-200 is supposed to be the stronger diff., why is it that I have just killed my 3rd one? took it apart today and found the same culprit as last time. the idler spider gears pin just doesn't hold up in the housing and breaks loose. any ideas of why this keeps breaking on me? thanks jesse p.s. 280z, turbo, 14psi, 5spd, 3.54

I have had the same problem with my transmission. to solve this problem I took a piece of round metal tubing and cut off a piece just as wide as the shifter if it won't fit into the shifter hole use a hack saw and cut one side of it. then use some plyers to squeeze it back round again. repeat this process till it will almost fit into the hole. then take a big hammer and pound the sucker in. after a nice tight fit is made. get a drill bit that is just slightly bigger than the pin and drill the hole out to the proper size. lastly use one (or two depending on thickness) washer on either side of the shifter and now you have a nice tight shifter again that wont wear out. good luck jesse

yea from 81-85 they were all the standard t3 and only oil cooled in mid 85 they added water cooling to the t3 mid 85 thru 86 were all t3's oil and water cooled 87-89 used a garett t25. it is a little smaller but the engine hp rating went from 200hp --> 205hp. what makes this difference I don't know. jesse

ok let me see if I have this right. the stock computer/fuel system is only capable of of delivering 10psi worth of fuel in stock form. with the advent of higher fuel pressure(rrfpr) this problem can be bypassed fairly easily. besides those facts, there is proubly a problem with either a injector not firing correctly, clogged fuel lines, clogged injector, or afm issues. did i miss anything? you'll be happy to know that it was getting 14.7:1 idling though I'm going to be taking things apart tomarrow to find the culprit. I'll let you know. thanks jesse p.s. the fan is fine because 1. the fan doen't matter driving down the road at 55mph, and 2. idling for extended periods of time doesn't cause it to over heat.