onephatz

check this out. this is my buddys 1st gen rx7 http://www.missouri.edu/~javg25/v8rx7.htm it's a small block 305 out of 85 chevy caprice that we got for free. fits in there quite nicely. jesse

all of this informaiton came from factory service manuals seems nissan put some guts behind the old zx turbo 3spd. jesse

nissan put the t3 on the 2.8 with the idea that most of the driving would be in the low and mid range rpm range. in those ranges the t3 works rather well and supply's the engine with all the air it needs. in the upper end of the rpm range thou the 2.8 out pumps the t3 and the t3 runs out of efficent flow. everything is a give and take. quick boost usually means smaller turbine and compressor wheel. at higher rpms that smaller wheel just can't push enough air for the motor. like wise a larger compressor wheel means more boost but also usually more lag. unfotunetlly all this extra boost must pass thru the exhaust turbine. with a larger turbine it is easier to contol the shaft speed thereby keeping the compressor in it's effecent range. this also introduces lag. this is usually the best when you are shooting for the big horsepower numbers but don't really car much for low end power. the third option is to run a larger compressor (t04e/b....) with a smaller turbine wheel (t3 a/r .63 stage 1) this provides quicker response at the low end of the rpm's but has the added risk of over spinning the compressor wheel out of it's effecency range. the only way to counter act this is to have a large wastegate to dump all the extra exhaust gases that are being pumped into the motor by the larger compressor wheel. honestly I don't know if an internal wastegate is able to do this. I figued that's why people who put down big numbers ran external gates. realisticly I think the t3 of a zx would fit much better on a 2.4 or 2.6. I know of several dodge 2.2L and 2.4L owners that put the larger turbine (a/r .63 stage 1 or 2. stock is .48 ) housing on their cars when they want to run the higher boost (16-20lbs).

I'm running a 280z with a stock turbo motor w/intercooler, w/dsm450's, w/ megasquirt. problem is that my manual boost controller doesn't respond fast enough and I end up spiking to above 21psi. mega squirt doesn't like this and tells me so in a very bad way when it happens. I want to be able to run 15-20lbs of boost out of the turbo but if i set the controller to high it spikes about 21 and we have problems. if i set it where is doesn't spike over 21 it settles down to around 12lbs which is unaccpetable to me. I have an extra wastegate acuator and was wondering if I could take it apart and add a bigger spring to have the faster response and not have to use the boost controller. it's the stock t3 turbo with the stock wastegate actuator. thanks jesse

same with me, has a slow and steady rise when I'm heavy on the throttle. no wild fluctations

you are supposed to have 12v to the positive side but I don't think you are supposed to have any voltage on the negitive side at all. I don't know this for sure but I'll check my car and get back to you on that. jesse

I've just got my car running again with the stock turbo, an intercooler, and dsm 450's. I was doing some data logging on megatune and was wondering what someone else's intake temps were after a 1/4+ mile pull. mine stated out around 85 and ended up around 115 or so. also, i'm having trouble getting a clear tach signal (jumps from 2000->13000 rpm) to my zetroinx wideband controller and my car tach has just decided to start freakin out on my not reading anything or just jumping around. is there a fix for this? I'm running a msd boost timing master for ignition. it has no tach output so I just hooked up off the neg. terminal of the coil. 75 280z any thoughts? jesse

I wanted to see if anyone had tried puting the fuel pressure regualtor back by the pump and running a single line up to the fuel rail. or if you could tee the line up by the engine and run just one line to the fuel rail and the other to a fuel pressure regulator and returning in the return line? if this is just a bad idea lemme know jesse

are those STOCK axles? hummm. btw nice exhaust

does anyone have info on this process? I'm working on a paper that involves this process and am having a hard time finding good data on the process. i'm working on carbon steel and need to know dissolution rates, current and voltage values, typical bath solutions, ect. if you know anyone who can lead me in the right direction shoot me a phone numer or website. much thanks jesse

to tell the truth if you want something that you can make, try making pullies for your car. you can make one for the crank, water pump, and alternator. then if you get the ok you can actually use the lathe to make them out of aluminum and reduce some of your rotating mass. jesse note: it's proubly best to make the inner part of the crank pully out of steel and make an aluminum pully that bolts to it.

yea i know where this came from. it is the engine that comes out of the ford falcon in austraila. I think it is a 2.6L pumping out around 1000hp if I remember correctly. makes you kinda wish ford made something like that here in the states.

I've got several turbos that I would like to do some mixing and matching if possable. I wanted to know if one can purchase a t4e housing, backing plate, and wheel and install it on a stock t3 turbo from a zx? I also wanted to know if that same type of thing could be accoplished with mistibishi turbos vs garrett turbos. the links below give me some ideas of what I could do if I have the right information. stuff like can a stage 3 wheel fit into a stage 1 housing. is the turbine shaft long enough to install a larger wheel. is the turbine shaft the correct size(large shaft vs small shaft)? stuff like that. http://linux.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=FP&Category_Code=UNIV-Tcomp http://64.225.76.178/catalog/Default.htm I wonder because I have inherited several turbos from various people. some are really shot, and some are still in good shape. here's what I have: 3 turbos off late 80's chrysler products- Garrett and MHI i think 2 turbos of early zx's (stock t3)garrett 1 turbo off a 2g dsm(t25)garrett 1 turbo off a 1g dsm(14b)MHI 1 turbo with t3 exhaust housing, shot center, and 60-1 compressor housing (i think it came from turbonetics) is there a way to tell if a turbo is rebuildable? can I use a good center section from one turbo and get a new compressor/turbine wheels to use with the turbine housing and compressor housing from another turbo that has a bad center section? lots of q's I know but this is something that I could really get into. any info would be great thanks jesse

is that ct26 really good for 500hp? holy crap.

I'd have to agree with speeder. installing multiple amps gets annoying. by using a single amp you greatly simplify wiring power and where rca's and speaker wiring need to go. as far as brand, I think sticking with an upper level brand is the only way to go. usually the upper level amps are rated, but then exceed their rated output if you so desired. also don't forget to get a capcitor.

to tell the truth I think the first car looks more like an aston martin to me. looks too big and bulky

took my motor apart to install new arp rod bolts and this is what I found. guess I will be getting new pistons sooner than I thought. btw this was the #5 cylinder.

ok t3's...... what car does the t3 come on with a a/r .48 exhaust. maybe i can find some of those cheaper. maybe a late 80's early 90's chrysler's? about the cam, I get my info from a engine dynamics book that say's: " blowing down is the process by which a supercharger forces mixture into the cylinder and expells spent exhaust gases there by fully scavenging the hot exhaust gases. If carried to extremes, it is obviously wasteful of mixture and to that extent inefficient. The benefits obtained from the complete scavenge of the head and absence of hot remnants are howere enormous in relation to the extra power obtained. For its successful application blowing-down requires an early opening inlet valve -say 40 or more degrees btdc to give time to allow the high pressure mixture to enter at high rpm. the exhaust valve remains open for a corresponding period after tdc. because of the positive high pressure, there is no doubt about the direction of mixture flow, nor the fact that the cylinders are thoroughly scavenged and left full of uncontaminated charge." -phillip smith 1967 true this book was written in the sixtys but I still think it has many truths that can be applied even today. if things have drasticlly change since then, let me know. jesse

sounds good. my car is no daily driver, it is only and i mean only a weekend warrior. my intent is to hand out beat downs on guys who think their cars are fast I want all my power to be top end where i'll be shifting thru. thanks for the info jesse

here is the setup that I'll be running when it's all together L28 p-90 head pistons ??? felpro 1mm headgasket twin t-25's (good for ~400hp)--->don't ask.... compcams 280/280 (still up for debate) non egr intake w/ 60mm tb front mount intercooler dsm 450cc injectors msd 6btm ignition megasquirt efi