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About ThreeEightyZ

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  • Birthday 09/11/1987

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  1. As stated, I'm looking mainly for inner and outer tie rod ends, but seeing as they're impossible to find I'd be interested in buying a complete operational rack with good ends. Also looking for a front metal fender DATSUN emblem, a good working column turn signal switch, and some stock front and rear springs. Let me know what you have! Located in Bakersfield, CA Car is a early 74 260z (240)
  2. Any of those..the most common thing would be a float problem though. The float could be saturated, something may be stuck in the needle seat, etc. Does your carb have sight glasses in the side?
  3. Would I be better or worse off welding my diff? I know it would distribute power to 2 axles instead of one...but i can also see how it might add to the stress they see under normal driving.
  4. I'd be inclined to agree...This was why i wasn't worried so much up to this point...as I would shred the tires (both) loose with my open rear end whenever i hit about half throttle in 1st or 2nd gear. But since I've gotten these new tires...I'm actually able to lay into it pretty good about halfway through first if I roll into it steady. My main concern now is the shifts. My tranny has a custom shift kit in it that is VERY aggressive..and my main concern is shifting into 2nd on the juice and disintegrating a an entire axle assembly. I would kind of prefer to blow the diff up...seeing as the re
  5. Ok so I've got some basic tire on my can now and I'm like some input on what I can expect out of the rear components in my 260 with what I want to throw at it. I have an early '74 260z with an open r200 (I THINK 3.90) diff...i believe the halfshafts/axles are out of a 280...but may be the stock ones from my car. I'm running a ~500hp(crank) 383 and a built/kitted etc TH350(shifts pretty damn hard). So far everything has held up well under pretty aggressive driving..I just put brand new street tires on it and can finally start to grab OK in 1st gear. My driveline was also custom made and s
  6. Yes, fuel pressure should always be set at running temp, but i dont see that making a that significant of a difference. The part that doesn't fit the "low pressure" hypothesis is that you said at higher rpm and wot it runs fine. If it were truly running out of gas and you opened up the butterflies...the engine would likely hesitate and backfire or just stall instantly. I've had junk get caught in the my secondary bowl's float needle seat before and it cause almost the same symptoms...after i drove it for a while it would start to gargle when cruising. But, If i went WOT or rolled into the gas
  7. I wishI had more pictures...but the car has only been going for a month or so
  8. Are you sure that your pressure gauge is good? As well as your regulator? If it pulls fine when you roll on the throttle or at wot you are most likely running rich. It sounds just like when a bowl starts to flood from a float problem or too much pressure. Actually...i just looked at the picture...you're running a Mr Gasket gauge from the parts stores. Those are useful when you need them immediately...but they are JUNK. I have one on my car and I have gone through 4 of them in a year because after a month or so they stop reading even REMOTELY correctly. I actually just changed one last we
  9. I would be SERIOUSLY interested in buying an entire kit to get rid of the stock axles on my r200, as well as convert to 5 lug at the same time. I just recently finished swapping a 500hp 383 into my 260Z. I don't have the greatest budget, and would like the added security.
  10. Ok guys so this is my first post as a new Z owner: My problem: I have a Motor setup from my donor Camaro that is to be placed into the Z. It's a 383 Stroker laying down approx. 480HP at the crank, and about 500 ft lbs...this was previously mated to a TH350 that was built, and it handled it just fine (even with up to a 250 shot of N2O) Now with the Z, I'm looking to go 700R4, as im making the car somewhat of a daily driver, but am not great with these transmissions and would like some input on what kind of work will be necessary to make this transmission survive my motor! (And maybe a sma
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