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Selling some spare half shafts that I've been hanging on to. Recently converted to the Wolf Creek Racing CV kit, so these won't be seeing the track any time soon! #1 and #2 are fully stock, taken from a R200 280z, #3 was refreshed with MOOG U-joints and repainted 2 years ago. #1 and #2 $50 35 each SOLD!!! #3 $75 50 SOLD!!! Buyer pays shipping.
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First off, if you haven't seen my thread over in the drivetrain section, it covers a lot of technical information on the swap and reviews of the previous 6 kits I've sold. If you feel like reading through 16 pages then the link is below. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117668-the-ultimate-irs-swap-for-s30s/ Now onto the info for those of you who haven't seen my setup. What this kit allows you to do:Mount an 8.8 IRS differential from an 2002-2005 Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer. This is practically the same differential used in the 03/04 cobras, just cheaper and has a stronger rear cover from the factory. Use a custom differential stub axles along with off the shelf components to convert to Porsche 930 CV joints and 930 axles. A F150 front axle outer CV joint is used for the outboard CV joint. The F150 CV uses the same splines as the 930 stuff and has a 33 spline axle which goes into a ~2000 Dodge Intrepid Front Hub. The Intrepid hub has the 5x4.5" bolt pattern(Mustangs, newer Nissan's, etc). If you are looking to stay 4 lug that is an option as well. However, I am not currently planning on drilling the hubs for 4 lug, so your favorite local machine shop will need to be sourced. So from the inside to outside you have: 8.8 Differential->Custom Stub Axle->Porsche 930 CV Joint->Porsche 930 Axle->F150 Front Outer CV Joint->Dodge Intrepid Hub->Wheel. Use my custom suspension upright to mount the Intrepid Hub Assembly along with Coil-overs and Koni struts(Or other options are in the works). For brakes you have the option of either Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 2 piece 12.2" rotors, or running cobra brakes that are a popular swap for the stock rear setup Why it is the best IRS setup for S30s out there:The only custom part that is breakable is the custom differential stub axle. I make and weld on a flange to the stock Explorer Inner CV housing. In the event this becomes the weak point(Which I don't see happening). Driveshaft shop sells custom billet chromoly ones for $500 a pair. In the even the CV Joints become the weak link you can upgrade to 300M CV Joints, 300M axles, replace the F150 CV Joint with a Porsche 930 Micro stub and another 930 CV Joint(The F150 setup is cheaper). The 8.8 IRS differential has every gear ratio you could ever want for about 150 per gear set. You can get bearings/parts at your local parts store. It's an all aluminum housing so its relatively light. You can actually buy differentials for the thing(Unlike the Nissan diffs). Large wilwood brakes, koni struts, coil-overs. Budget friendly, uses lots of off the shelf parts to lower cost. What I actually provide:Front differential mount. This bolts in where the RT(Ron Tyler) style diff mount bolts in. If you have a high HP car I would recommend welding this in because the bolts/nuts have been known to come loose with a mount styled like this. The mount is up and out of the way of everything and does not impair getting the differential out if it was welded in. Rear Differential Mount/Mustache Bar. I make an aluminum(6061-T6) mustache bar that bolts to the factory studs and mounts the rear of the 8.8 diff. It uses polyurethane bushings in the same location as the stock mustache bar. Rear LCA drop down/dogbone. The rear differential mounts go through the stock LCA drop down brackets so I make a new steel one which replaces the old drop downs and bolts right to the piece which holds the bushing. 8.8 Differential Stub Axle. You send me a pair of rear explorer CV axles($100/pair on ebay). I make 930 CV flanges and weld them to the explorer stub axles. This allows you to bolt up a Porsche 930 CV joint. Suspension Upright/Strut Tube. I provide a custom upright that holds the Intrepid Hub, Wilwood(Or cobra) brakes, Koni struts(Or other options), Coil-overs from A1racing(Or any coil-over kit which fits the stock strut tubes). It uses a bolt on strut tube that has built in camber adjustment. You can use the stock strut top hat if you don't want to go to camber plates. For those running Wilwood brakes the rotor hat needs in inner bore enlarged a bit to fit over the Intrepid Hub. I can do this for $20/pair of hats. You ship the hats to me and I'll send them with the rest of your kit. Every bolt you will need to bolt it all up. Everything powder coated black, unless you really want a different color, then we can probably work something out. If you don't want anything powder coated it will save you roughly $100. Cobra brake caliper brackets are going to cost a bit extra, not sure exactly how much at this time, but probably around $40 extra. What I don't provideAnything you can buy off the shelf. I'm not into the parts selling business, I can't compete with large retailers like Summitracing.com, Jegs, Rockauto.com, etc. I provide a detailed list of everything you need which includes part numbers, links to the cheapest place I could find to buy it, prices, quantities, etc. You just go through the list and order everything and it gets shipped straight to you. This makes it cheaper for you and less of an investment on my part to order lots of parts up front. I currently do not assemble the CV axles for you. This is probably the hardest part of the whole install. The F150 CV Axle you buy from "insert auto parts store here" must be taken apart to get the outer CV joint. The shaft must actually be cut off close to the outer CV joint in order to disassemble the joint to remove the F150 shaft. It is really not that difficult its just messy(CV Grease) and a little time consuming. The 8.8 differential. You can pick these up on ebay, from junk yards, from that 02+ explorer in the walmart parking lot, etc etc. If you get it from a junk yard and can get the CV axles with it for cheap, then you are in good shape. The condition of the explorer CV axles does not matter, all I need is the inner spline portion. The 600HP+ supercharged LSx motor that Texis300 has putting power through this setup(With a clutch between the two). However, if you provide me with his motor, I will give you a kit for free. How much it will hurt your pocket book:The custom parts that I listed off above are going to cost $1350. This includes everything I listed out above. I have attached a parts list below detailing what the total setup should cost for everything but a driveshaft. My parts are listed on there too, broken down by piece, but those prices will probably only hold as a full kit. If you want individual pieces instead of the full thing, the cost will probably go up slightly. My price does not include shipping. As long as everything goes smoothly, you will pay exactly what I pay for shipping plus a small fee for packing. It cost around $70 to ship everything last time and around $10 for packaging. On the spreadsheet currently it says it will cost $3365 for everything. Keep in mind guys this is the differential, CV Axles, Wilwood brakes, Koni Struts, Coil-overs, etc. This gets you a completely new rear end with very nice, strong parts. I haven't done the numbers yet but the cobra brakes will reduce the price by several hundred I believe. I placed an order with a local laser shop to cut everything needed for 10 full sets(With the option for 5 to use cobra brakes). They have a 3 week lead time, but the order is placed and the ball is rolling(extremely overdue). I know I had a lot of people PM'ing me who were interested after I finish the first 5 sets up. I would like to keep this thread on the more purchasing/product info side of things and use the current thread in the drivetrain forum for technical questions, etc. Feel free to ask questions on here, on the other thread, or shoot me a PM. As many others have found out, I'm a senior Mechanical Engineering student, I work full time now, so I get quite busy at times but I try to keep up best I can. This is a side business for me(for now) so sometimes my day job/school gets put first unfortunately. I have attached pictures below, rather than make this post extremely long I will just leave them in the attached section. I have also uploaded the parts list as a PDF. -Will S30 8.8 Swap Parts List.pdf
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Getting rid of a lot of extra parts around the garage. Here is what I have in the driveline department: 280ZX- 1983 NA driveshaft $20 1983 NA stock companion flanges $35 1982 Turbo stock companion flanges, 6 bolt $45 1982 Turbo CV axles rebuilt with modified MM steel companion flanges to fit 27 spline stub axles $200 SOLD 240Z- R180 3.36 open differential with mustache bar with new bushings $75
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Hi, I'm currently embarking on a diff project (not exactly by choice) and so far I have all my parts (Adapters from M2, Diff from Whitehead) and I am currently stuck at finding Z31 Turbo Axles. I've tried Rock Auto several times but they never have them in stock (when they do its a lie). I also tried my local CL and eBay as well as a few members here on HybridZ, NicoClub, and ClassicZCar. If this goes against any Forum rules, I apologize but I've tried mainly through Parts Wanted threads and private messaging AS WELL AS THE SEARCH BUTTON and I'm not to sure where to go now. If anyone has information on where to find Z31 Turbo axles please let me know. Better yet, if you are selling them, please let me know. Thank you, Liam
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So yesterday, my car was totaled. I was at a red light at the bottom of a bridge, and on the left lane there was a guy who was pushing his car because he was having car problems. 30 seconds into waiting for the red light to turn green, I looked into my rearview, I saw a Honda coming at me at least 45 mph. I saw him 2 seconds before he hit me, so I braced for impact. He pushed me to the other side of the intersection. I tried to exit the car but the feders trapped the door, so I climbed out the window. I went up to the driver and asked what happened with him and told him off for being reckless. He told me that he was distracted by the guy pushing his car because he wanted to help him out. So I called insurance and cops took a report. Today the adjuster came and said the car is a total loss. He said they'll get back to me within a few days with an offer. I've put a lot of time and money restoring this car, but I have a feeling they will try to lowball me. Has anyone had a similar experience? How much were you compensated? How can I make sure I get back what I put in?
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Ok so I've got some basic tire on my can now and I'm like some input on what I can expect out of the rear components in my 260 with what I want to throw at it. I have an early '74 260z with an open r200 (I THINK 3.90) diff...i believe the halfshafts/axles are out of a 280...but may be the stock ones from my car. I'm running a ~500hp(crank) 383 and a built/kitted etc TH350(shifts pretty damn hard). So far everything has held up well under pretty aggressive driving..I just put brand new street tires on it and can finally start to grab OK in 1st gear. My driveline was also custom made and should be one of the stronger parts in my drivetrain...leaving the axles as the weakest link i think. My question is this...how likely am I to hurt any of the axle parts with these street tires and my automatic? Both on the street and at the track (assuming i hook pretty well)? Have any of you broken them in the middle of a pass? (not off the line). I also would like to put maybe a 150 shot on the motor, as the motor was running on nitrous regularly in the previous car. I'd be looking to squeeze probably in 2nd gear...and I'm wondering if even that might be enough to shock one of those parts enough. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
