zxtman

Tim you are correct: the greater the pressure, the greater the boiling point.

How did you setup the hks sprocket? I've seen them and the dowel hole doesn't line up with the OE sprocket to give you a base line to start with. If your not going to run a thermostat, you should at least run a restrictor otherwise coolant flows through the radiator too quickly and isn't cooled as well.

What is "clocking" the maf sensor?

Does anyone offer different gear ratios from stock for the T5? I need to rebuild it and would like to make 1st & 2nd a little longer.

You cannot put a breather on the crankcase vent tube if you have an evacuation hose from your valve cover to inlet pipe on the compressor side of the turbo. You will draw in unmetered air and run lean. If you are evacuating these engines, they must run on a "closed" system.

No one is answering the question. You are telling me that the crankcase vent tube can't be plugged but you're not telling me why. The pcv valve flows in one direction: from the crankcase into the intake manifold. Under boost, the valve closes and keeps pressure in the intake, so, under boost, no evacuation of the crankcase is taking place. There is air space that connects the crankcase to the valve cover, and that is through the front cover where the timing chain is. Hence my question, is evacuation through the valve cover sufficient?

The oily residue will accumulate over time from blow-by gasses in the crankcase. I've been told that it can't be left open; the engine will not run properly. So my question is if it can be plugged. I'm using a 5/8" ID hose from the valve cover to the turbo inlet pipe for evacuation. Will this take care of the crankcase as well?

The inside of my intake manifold gets an oily residue from the crankcase through the pcv valve. I have the valve cover breather plumbed to a catch can and then into the turbo inlet pipe. My question is can I eliminate the crankcase breather connection to the intake to avoid the oily residue; is evacuation through the valve cover sufficient?

Yes, Tim you are correct. I've known about the landscape edging, but wondered if anything was made specifically for this.

I want to extend my front air dam by fastening a strip 2" or 3" wide to the bottom of the air dam. Is there a special product made for this? It's for a Kaminari front spoiler on a 280ZX.

What are the best spark plugs to use in a high boost (20-25psi) L28 race motor?

lift 480/480 dur 280/270 lsa 110 for a 400+ hp L6 motor. Any comments appreciated.

ok, to answer my own question, and if anyone else needs this info: (31) M6x1.0x25mm studs (incl. washers and nuts) are required for the L6 cast oil pan.

I want to use studs for my new cast alum oil pan. Does anyone know where I can find the right size studs: length, thread pitch, etc. Has anyone used studs instead of bolts

I'll call the dealer and find out about these bronze bushings. Great info guys. Thanks.

Do those injectors have o-ring or hose ends, and what do they flow?

Thanks for the feedback guys. I did adjust/tighten the steering gear to eliminate the play, and it did, until I tried to turn the steering wheel lock to lock and it would only turn half way in each direction which tells me that the shaft is worn. It cannot be fixed unless the shaft can be replaced. It's probably easier to buy a new rack except Nissan doesn't have any, and I'm not sure I want to gamble with a rebuilt one. Any suggestions?

The steering column is fine. The steering coupler is fine. The outer tie rods are fine. The inner tie rods are fine. The rack bushings are fine. The shaft, inside the rack housing that moves side to side has play in it. You can grab the steering rack boot where the inner tie rod is and move it up and down about 1/16" in each direction. Either the shaft or whatever guides the shaft within the rack housing is worn.

The non-power steering rack in my 280ZX is worn. The shaft moves up and down while in the rack causing alot of play in the steering. I don't want to replace it with a rebuilt unit. Will another type/make/manufacturer of non-power rack work?

Thanks for all the replies and input guys. To answer some of your questions: 1. Fuel pressure map is set at 3 bar 2. No "step" has been added to the ECU 3. MAF sensor is approx 16" away from compressor inlet with (2) very slight bends 4. A/F readings were from wide-band O2 during dyno session 5. I have the stock cam in the car (I have my new cam & adj. cam sprocket sitting in a box until I get the ECU problem sorted out. new cam will move the power band up to better match the power band of the turbo) 6. Head is race ported 7. SS valves & upgraded valve springs 8. Intake runners are fully ported incl. plenum area 9. Larger throttle body 10. HKS 4 Row I/C 11. Custom fuel rail, SI FPR, Aeromotive fuel pump 12. GReddy BOV 13. Custom 3" downpipe & exhaust 14. Turbonetics Racegate 15. EVC IV 16. Rods, pistons, rings 17. Crank, dampner, & tilton flywheel balanced 18. All internals stress relieved & balanced 19. Cast oil pan w/ trap doors & windage tray 20. Custom 3" Griffin radiator 21. Spal dual elec fans 22. MSD 23. Coil-overs w/ caster/camber adj 24. Custom roll cage 25. Race seats w/ 5 pt 26. Z32 brakes front, Z31 brakes rear 27. Nismo LSD 28. Z31 CV axles 29. 5 lug front & rear 30. 17x8's & 17x9.5's the list goes on... I am going to put the car on a different dyno to make sure the results are consistent. Then, I will call Clark, provide him with the dyno results, 4 bar fuel pressure map, "step" program added to the ECU, and go from there. Regarding the blinking ECU light(s), the first thing I did was to check the manuals ECCS section to find what the trouble code was for. It was for an ignition problem. I offered this info to Jim Wolf and he replied that the codes are not valid since it is a Z31 ECU. And again, he stated that the blinking green light was impossible and offered no other help. I know, I know, I'll speak to Clark. thanks again for the input.

I have a problem, and I'm not sure what else to do. On my 280ZXT, I am running a Jim Wolf Technology setup (reprogrammed Z31 ECU, 420cc injectors, and Ford MAF sensor). The engine would develop an intermittent lean condition while in closed loop (even while idling) and was undriveable, especially under full load. When this would occur, the green light on the ECU would blink. I spoke to Jim wolf and he said that this was impossible. But asked me to send him the ECU so that they can "bench test" it. I did, and they could find nothing wrong with it. Jim asked me to perform a few tests, which I did. ... check all sensors providing information to the ECU (MAF sensor, cyl head temp sensor, Oxygen sensor, throttle position switch) to make sure they are working properly and to make sure that all signals are within range. All sensors cheched out OK. Under full load, the MAF sensor was sending a signal of 4.9+ volts to the ECU. Jim said this was OK. When I ran the car without the oxygen senson connected, the intermittent leaning condition was gone, so the condition only occured in closed loop. I put the car on the dyno expecting somewhere in the 420 HP range, but that didn't happen. The outcome was 350 HP and 380 torque. The curves were steep from 3000-4000 and the steadily dropped off after 4100 rpm. The interesting thing is that both of these HP and torque numbers occured at right around 4100 rpm which happens to be when maximim boost is reached (the turbo is a 60-1, TO4 w/ P-trim wheel and .70 A/R). Both HP and torque dropped after 4100 rpm and the the air/fuel ratio went completely rich, off the chart. I would expect max horsepower to occur in the 6000-6500 rpm range and max torque to occur in the 5000-5500 range. I gave this information to Jim Wolf and he said that he could perform a "shotgun" procedure to the ECU. This meant obtaining another ECU, and transplanting the reprogrammed circuit boards from the original to the new. He said this would not necessarily solve the problem. Has anyone had an experience like this? Does anyone have any ideas for a solution? This has been an ongoing and frustrating experience. I'm considering going with a stand alone, fully programmable system. I'd appreciate any help. Spiro