zxtman

The 280ZX T5 and the 300ZX T5 have different tail housings. The 300 tail housing accepts a larger diameter driveshaft slip yolk.

...looks like a clamping force problem. There have been issues with those clutches, particularly on ebay: you may want to investigate further and replace with a different press plate.

If the car sits for a long time without running, like mine has in the past between rebuilds, the injectors can get stuck. This is the way I have done it and it has worked for me both times I've tried it: With the fuel rail and injectors on the engine, determine which injectors are working (opening & closing) and which are not. You can do this by having someone crank the engine while you listen to each injector with a stethoscope: you should hear a distinct "ticking" sound: disconnect the spark plug wires before you do this. Now, disconnect all injector connectors except for one that is stuck. Again, have someone crank the motor, and while cranking, use a small hammer with a rachet extension to tap the body of the injector. Give it a few taps and then listen with the stethoscope. Repeat until the injector is unstuck/opening and closing (producing that distinct ticking sound). Now go on to the next stuck injector ... This assumes that the ECU is sending a signal to the ingectors. You can check this as well by connecting a known working injector (without the fuel line attached) to each connector and crank the engine. Another alternative to this is to have your injectors cleaned/serviced and flow checked by a fuel injection service facility. I would try any or all of the above before purchasing new injectors. This is probably more information than you cared to know, but if it doesn't help you, maybe it can help someone down the road.

It works just like any other body filler except it's a little more difficult to sand and it's waterproof. I've used it for small jobs: dings & rust repair. It works great. I buy it by the quart here: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/usc-all-metal-premium-aluminum-filled-auto-body-filler-p-14787.aspx

Check it out.

the position of the engine block did not change... the position of the differential did not change... sounds to me like both tranny lengths are the same, only difference is that the mount on the 240SX FS5W71C is in a different location: that's why the original driveshaft fits.

I have lash pads in my tool box that are over 20 years old and have no rust on them. Could your lash pads be an aftermarket part made with inferior metal??? I would question the supplier.

Now purchasing adapters that would enable you to mount those wheels would work, but as mentioned above eagles are cheap and, ... well you know.......

Yes, but if your so concerned about fuel vapors, why are you "getting rid of my emissions stuff"???

I'm in for 20.

Don't cap the fuel vent line. Remove the rubber hose that connects the fuel vent hard line to the carbon canister. Place a small filter/breather on the end of that hard line.

A washer on #4 should be used under the nut as shown. A washer (or washers) on #3 should be used for caster adjustment, as needed.

... and according to your link, what is the definition of "spelt"?

"spelt" ...., hmmm, ...better check your spelling

Use some good sized flat washers so you don't tear the reflective heat barrier while tightening down on the nuts.

Have you weighed the wheels? .., just curious how much they weigh.

I like the front end but it doesn't match the rest of the car. I think you either need to continue the black stripe/moulding around the new front end, or remove the moulding from the doors and paint the rear bumper all silver. I would prefer all silver. Try a little photoshop and see how it looks. Just my thoughts.

That air dam looks perfect on that car,... great lines and fit. Very nice.

The resevior is designed to be used as a catch can, but you could surely use it as an expansion/overflow tank which I think is your intention,... just not sure why 2 hoses are connected to it. Where does the hose from the top of the catch can connect to??

I was able to get my hands on another L28ET oil filter bracket and was able to trace the flow of oil. 1. Oil from the block flows through the outer portion of the adapter and into the filter through the holes on the perimeter of the filter. 2. Oil then passes through the filter media and flows through the threaded hollow center mounting stud, and then out of the offset port of the oil filter bracket on its way to the cooler. 3. Oil then flows from the cooler back into the engine through the center port of the oil filter bracket. What is confusing is the diagram in the FSM shows the offset port on the opposite side of how it actually is. (see attached picture) Anyway, I now know which is the "hot" line from the engine to the cooler which is what I needed to know to install a remote oil thermostat. .

I am about to splice in a remote oil thermostat into my oil cooler lines and I need to confirm direction of the oil flow. I am using the L28ET oil filter bracket. Does oil from the engine flow out of the center of the oil filter bracket (marked #1 in the attachment) on its way to the cooler and then returned back into the motor through the offset connection (#2)? Thanks. L28ET oil filter bracket.pdf

I couldn't agree more, assuming the rest of the suspension is up to par.

...looks good, ...nice photoshop job!

If you could have a portion of the washers milled to remove the appropriate thickness, that would work. Or, you could use shim washers (of the appropriate thickness) cut in half and tack welded to the exhaust flange: this way you could use the factory washers as is.

I would only go with a .63 A/R if your wastegate can dump enough exhaust; otherwise, you will not be able to control boost pressure. I think a .70 A/R would be your all around best bet.