zxtman

Do a search and you'll find there's alot of information on this subject. You need to make a decision wether you want to evacuate the engine or let it breathe: you can't do both.

I have an 11 lb tilton that I've been running in the car for 16 years. Great fltwheel. Don't know if they're still available.

where is your egt probe located? if it's at the exhaust port, you should stay below 1600 deg if it's on the down pipe, stay below 1400 deg

just because you have leaky injectors does not mean they are delivering fuel. when was the last time the engine was running? have someone turn the key to start the motor while you listen to each injector with a mechanics stethoscope (or a long screwdriver: place the screwdriver tip on the injector body and your ear on the handle) you should hear a clear "ticking", this is the solenoid valve in the injector opening and closing. if you do not hear a "ticking", and you have checked to make sure the injectors are receiving a voltage signal from the ecu, the solenoid valves may be stuck. while crancking the engine, lightly tap on the injector body with a 1/4 drive extension and a small hammer. this will dislodge the solenoid. this worked for me to get the engine started after my car had been sitting for many months. i would also recommend having the injectors cleaned.

Try the competition, re-usable gasket that comes with the cast oil pan. It has worked for me. I use it with the stock oil pan and have no leaks.

...scrapers too???

I've done this twice on my 280zxt without removing the engine, tranny, or dropping the crossmember. With the car in the air, I first removed the nuts on the engine mounts and then used a screw jack and a block of wood on the bottom of the timing chain cover just behind the crank pulley and lifted the motor and tranny as much as possible (several inches, make sure your hood is open). Second, loosen the cross member nuts as much as possible leaving them on so that the crossmember will drop a little (you may have to us a pry bar for this). Then, you can remove the pan.

What I did is run -10 hose from the crankcase and the valve cover to a breather tank (a catch can with a filter on top) and eliminated the pcv valve. Reasons being, I did not want the oily residue in the intake, I did not want to recycle hot air back through the intake, and the fact that the pcv valve does not allow evacuation of the crank case under boost when it is most needed. The -10 hose (5/8" ID) I used is large enough to allow the system to breathe/vent as needed. Of course, emissions are not an issue for me.

Has anyone used body parts from Showcars? How's the fit & finish?

there are plenty of 3 pc wheel manufacturers: Fikse, HRE, Kinesis, BBS, etc., that have those sizes available. they're just $$expensive$$.

I don't think so. Let me know if you find one! Those are crap. Go with NGKs or something comparable. ...and your right, that will be a huge project: be prepared to spend a lot of $$$.

I will be double checking the connections again and I was told that the filament may be dirty and could be cleaned with carb cleaner. I will be doing that as well and re-testing the sensor. It also seems logical to me that if the aftermarket sensor provides the same voltage signal as the factory unit, it should work fine in my car.

I have this setup on my 280ZXT and the MAF sensor appears to be going bad. When going into boost, part throttle (I cound not run the engine full throttle), AFR would climb to 17:1 (using wide band sensor). I checked the voltage signal from the MAF sensor to the ECU and it would sometimes reach 4v, other times only ablut 2.5v, and twice the signal momentarily cut out. The problem has progressively gotten worse. So here's the question: I don't want to spend $350+ on a new 93 Ford Cobra MAF sensor, so I called JWT and asked a simple question. Since my setup uses the stock MAF sensor from a 93 Ford Cobra, cound I use one of the many aftermarket MAF sensors calibrated for a stock 93 Ford Cobra? The answer I was given was to stick to the MAF sensor that was designed and tested for my setup, the aftermarket sensors have not been tested to see what kind of signal they would provide the Nissan ECU. I know that JWT sells this sensor for other upgraded ECU setups as well (240SX, 280ZXT, 300ZX (Z31), ALTIMA, G20, I30, SENTRA, SENTRA GTIR), so, I understand that they have not tested any other sensors with their setups, but if an aftermanket sensor is a direct replacement for a stock 93 Ford Cobra, why wouldn't it be for me? And by the way, some of these aftermarket sensors can be picked up for about $160. Any comments?

I know they offer a 3 piece 16" diameter wheel. I don't believe panasport makes a 17" wheel. If they did, I would have bought them last year when I was looking.

Are you planning to use a sprung or unsprung hub? There's a difference.

I've been using the poly bushings for years. The key is to use the proper lubricant on the bushongs to allow the rod to pivot as needed.

I replaced my power rack with a non-power rack on my 280zxt. No problems with the drain tube or the cross member.

you can use an epoxy to seal the holes.

just curious,... do you know what the clamping force on that pressure plate is?

does naturally aspirated mean no nos?

I have a tilton 11lb flywheel, 6 puck steel disc w/ unsprung hub, and centerforceII pressure plate and I have slippage. I need to upgrade my pressure plate. Can anyone reccommend a heavy duty pressure plate they have used?

Anyone recommend a pressure plate for 400hp 280zx?

Just keep in mind that cutting a coil spring (shortening it), increases it's spring rate. The more you cut, the more the spring rate increases. If you don't have the shocks to handle the increased rate, the car will "bounce" as a result of not being able to handle the rebound. And as far as: ...there's nothing wrong with the springs not being loaded when the car is when jacked-up and the suspension is under full droop unless at the time when the car is lowered to the groung the springs do not sit in the upper and lower perches correctly. If this occurs, you can tie wrap or safety wire the spring to the upper perch or with coilovers you can use a "helper spring".