zxtman

Has anyone looked into whether the GForce T5 Upgrade Kit will work in the Nissan T5? Thay have several gear types available and gear ratios as well, and they claim the kit will handle roughly 600 hp or 500 ft-lb. of torque in a 3300 lb. vehicle running drag radials at the track... http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp UPDATE: Nevermind, I contacted Gforce and asked the following: Nissan used a T5 in the 1982-83 280ZX Turbo. Can the G-Force Street 5-Speed upgrade kit be used for this application? The response was: "No, I am sorry it will not fit into that, it is too old. They only fit world class cores."

I disagree. The FSM states to use the following gear oil for the Turbo Model Transmission: "API GL-4 SAE 80W-90 OR Type Dexron", see attachment below: The Standard T5 uses brass synchros and not fiber as in the World Class T5. Some good info here: http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/t5_history.htm http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/borg_warner_t5_overhaul_kit.html There's conflicting information being posted, ...So which is it guys? 280ZX FSM Recommended Fuels and Lubricants.pdf

Were did you get this information? If I recall correctly, the Nissan T5 is a non-World Class T5. Read below (from the last paragraph of this link). http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/t5_history.htm One last piece of important information. ALL World Class T-5 use ATF oil and NOT heavy gear oil or Redline MTL! All NON-World Class T-5 use 70 wt gear oil. We recommend high quality Synthetic oil as it lasts a long time and over a larger operating temperature. It is important to change the oil in your transmission based on how you use the vehicle. If the vehicle is your daily driver then changing the oil every two to three years is fine. However, if the transmission sees regular track duty and pushed hard, then once or twice a year is in order. When we rebuild transmissions, we can tell when the oil has been changed often as the parts are much cleaner with less over all wear. There is no filter inside the manual transmission only a magnet at the bottom to pick up the metallic particles in the oil, the only metallic parts in a transmission is the gears or bearings. Oil is cheap, transmissions are not!

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Would you consider a used MLS HG? I have (2) 1mm head gaskets collecting dust. I don't know if it's recommended by the manufacturer, but many have had success re-using MLS gaskets with a good cleaning and coppercoat. Also, the rivets holding the layers together can be removed and replaced after assembling the number of layers you need to obtain the HG thickness required. Just a thought...

Have you "listened" to the injectors with a stethoscope (or a big screwdriver) while you are cranking the engine? You should be hearing a pronounced clicking (opening & closing of injector); if not, the injector(s) may be stuck. This could have been caused from the the engine not being run for an extended period of time (months).

I haven't had issues with MTL on the track; although others (not being used to the T5) that have driven my car, are not as clean with the shifting and have commented about notchy shifting, problems with downshifting, and grinding gears. With the T5 on the street, there's no issue, and on the track, as long as I match revs, I seldom have a problem.

The "weight" and "type/brand" of oil depend on the intended use. FWIW, I use Red Line MTL for the T5 and Red Line 75W90 for the R200.

...looks good. How about the rears?

From the information you've provided, I'm assuming you do not have this problem when running stock boost (6 PSI?), but you do at 10 PSI. Could it be blow-by and time for a new set of rings? Have you you performed a compression test on the motor? ...it might be time to "freshen-up" the motor.

I am not a fan of the A1000. Read this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/31350-some-pictures-of-my-fuel-setup/page__p__266060__fromsearch__1#entry266060

Do you feel a power loss or have detonation when your fuel pressure guage reads 18-22psi under boost? If not, your gauge is probably bad. Try a different gauge. I do not trust those little 1" fuel pressure guages, if that's what you're using.

Check your FPR first. How old is that pump?

My misunderstanding, ...nevermind.

I wish that were true. Stock L28et pistons range from $50 to $60 each. I paid $49/ea (p/n 12010-P9012) from Nissan. Custom forged pistons cost about double.

...simple question, do you have a fan shroud?

...try steel flat bar on both sides of the flange and press together with a c-clamp.

If your concern is correcting bump steer, you could accomplish this by using a tie rod that allows for bump steer adjustment.

... in other words, look closely at the photos. It is shown in more than one occasion and in different configurations.

I have the connectors. Also, the injectors are good and are for sale (cheap). Shoot me a pm.

...is this the injector you are using???

...so S13 rear coil overs fit on an S130??? Can anyone confirm this?

All this talk about EGTs means nothing without knowing where in the exhaust tract the temperature is taken. There could be up to, and even more than, a 200 degree difference when the probe is located 2" after the exhaust port on the head compared to at the collector right before the turbo flange (even more of a difference depending on the length of the header). Or even more of a difference if the probe is in the down pipe (after the turbo).

Similarities are lug pattern and number of spokes, and that's where it ends. You can not compare Volk to Konig. Volks are in a different league..., and I'm partial to Volk Wheels.

These adapters may work fine in lower boost/HP motors, but they have their limits and may not work as well in higher boost/HP motors. What is not desirable about these wastegate adapters is the 90 degree turn the exhaust gas has to make; especially as the speed of the exhaust increases, it becomes more and more difficult for the exhaust gas to make the turn. If you can manage it, a 45 degree angle or less is better.