jonbill

I doubt they will make any difference to idle/cruise. I'm sure you'll get there.

the only potential downside of smaller chokes is at the higher rpm. a mild 3.1 at 7000 may get all the air it needs from 36mm chokes and there'd but no downside. the upside would be no or less lean hole in the transition to main jets.

Idle through high speed cruise will all be on the idle jets/progression holes. the problem is with the transition from progression holes to the main circuit. the bigger the choke, the lower the air speed and the later the main circuit starts. There's richer and leaner emulsion tubes, yes, but thats not the only way they can differ. On the Dellortos, a .9 emulsion tube is richer than .7, but starts the main jet later. something to do with a hole at the float level lifting the emulsion earlier than without. if you find an emulsion tube that starts earlier, and maybe it is richer, you

This looks pretty good for explaining how emulsion tubes work, although might be talking about downdraft IDFs, so references to up and down etc might need some thinking about for DCOEs. http://www.performanceoriented.com/performance-tuning-2

The progression holes are the jets until the mains kick in. your idle jet is already quite rich, so although a bigger idle might cover it, it would make you way too rich everywhere else. a different emulsion tube might start your mains earlier. I had Dellortos so not familiar with what the early starting ones are, but I expect google knows. Also I'd think you wouldn't loose much if you went to 36mm chokes, revving to 7k. My cam is 15mm lift and 308/9 duration and revs to > 8k and wanted that extra flow. it took me about 5 years to learn enough to get them

I ran 39mm chokes on my L29 very happily. However, I did have to add a progression hole between the existing standard 2nd and 3rd holes. Big chokes can mean it goes lean between progression holes. What do you rev it to? TBH if you don't rev it, a smaller choke will fix the problem easier than finding where to put more progression holes and making them

I had to look up staking and potting 😊 I did glue the DSC in with hot melt glue - it did used to work lose. No problems in use, its been very reliable. It's not a daily, it only comes out when there's no salt on the roads.

That'll work well then. which board are you using?

What trigger pattern are you doing on that CAS?

catch can with a breather.

It must be just crud build up on the bolt. Is it turning easily, but just not coming out of the hole? I'd be seeing can get a pry bar levering it gently out while spinning it with the impact gun.

quite a bit more than you'd expect to make up in a skim then. weird.

that's interesting, how far down were they?

Yeah I have similar kameari pistons on my current engine and I did measure it up and the cutouts were needed. (but I cant remember the details) I'll just be moving the head over. It has Schneider 68025 springs. revs past 8000 ok.

yes, valve cut outs are to prevent piston valve contact. The cam has about 15mm valve lift and 300+ degrees duration. but also, thats how Kameari pistons come. the markings on the pistons are how much they're above the deck. about 0.4mm, so I'll use a 1.2mm gasket.

I got the rods back - a bit thinner at the little end and now with oil squirt holes. The pistons are now installed. Next up, mock up the timing cover install with a spare head and check the head bolts fit.

Setting up an R200 is quite hard, especially the pinion. Rule of thumb, don't take the pinion out unless you really have to.

Schneider list their spring pressures on their website. for info, when I went to swap out my 68025 (125 lb) springs for new 68022 (110 lb) it turned out the 68025 springs were only exerting about 95 lb anyway. (aiui, lots of high rpm action tires the springs quickly) Anyway, I think the Schneider springs and caps have been great value for me. I'd recommend them to anyone.

Sure, if that's what your testing shows. Really all you're looking for is that the AFR/Lambda doesn't change at idle with the fans on and off, with the lights on and off. etc. As long as your fuelling remains pretty constant across all the different voltages that your car is likely to see then I wouldn't worry to much about the out extremes of the dead time table.

No, that doesn't make sense. You want the curve to reflect the characteristics of your injectors. you can't 'set' the dead time - you can only inform the ECU what the dead time is, for it to use in calculating injection duration. your dead time will not be 1.5ms from 13.9 to 14.2 volts.

Just a point of detail, Quaife do still offer the lifetime warranty, they just exclude the US, Canada and Mexico. No idea why.

The crank has been in a while, now I'm waiting for my rods to be modifed.

the timing covers have a lip at the top where the head bolts to it. if you cut it down, you'll have build it up and tap it for the head bolts. I'd think fitting a crankshaft trigger wheel and sensor would be less effort and work better.

Yes, I think all the indications are that it has been reground. It also looks to me that there is evidence of the clearances being too tight - the engine is really dirty, but the base circle of some of the lobes are still bright, which suggests they're in contact with the rockers. I'd also set it back to standard.

I think you've mixed up measurement units. cold clearances should be 0.15 and 0.25mm I reckon. 0.008 to 0.010 sounds reasonable for measurement in inches. So your exhaust is ok and your inlet is too tight. If your measurements are really in mm, its all way too tight.