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xero_xero

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Everything posted by xero_xero

  1. the stripping fase is nearly half way done on the body.
  2. Overspray isnt a problem, ill be spraying most of the primer in the driveway, then carry it to a booth to handle the base/clear.... been there, done that too many times. from what i have read, epoxy binds best to metal substrate, but they list nothing else. i have heard of evercoat, and i have a gallon of bondo sitting in my garage now thats actually bondo brand. i thought the same thing, then, i read about how body fillers of different brands actually have issues with creating a rust inhibiting situation. but that w2as geared towards specific brands if i remember correctly. Specific product lines always help, as well as reinforcing the products that have been used and proven. thanks!
  3. I have a 75, with a good amount of rust being cut out, weld, grind, lather, rinse, repeat as necessary. i want to seal the body up, as its sitting in my driveway and surface rust is a big issue. i have a few coats of primer on the surfaces that i have stripped completely, but i am looking to Epoxy prime the entire bodyline. the underside will receive por15 with undercoating. now, do you prefer or have experience bondoing before or after the epoxy coat. The only thing that worries me about spreading putty after is the possibility of breaking through the epoxy coat, and loosing that protection. My process as follows, Flapdisc strip - reason being i have three coats of paint and body work to cut through aerosol prime to protect from elements Sheetmetal bodywork with no bondo Airfile smooth - and epoxycoat within 24 hours Bondo filler to the absolute minimum huigh build primer. thoughts?
  4. bit busy, did some stripping and priming to temporarily seal. have a few broken bolts to say the least. and a few more that need finessing. a bunch
  5. its sooooooo slow. im ready to work on it some more, and drive it above all.
  6. Stripping the bay.. Tig it up, paint it pretty
  7. Pulled the front part of the wiring Worked through the 21circut painless wiring kit Looked at dash wiring a bit Gearing up to replace the floor pans Stringing it out a bit. Looking through suspension now, even though I still have no clue.
  8. hopefully, it wont be 6 years in, only a few more months. i believe i have most of the pieces collected, now time for some of that effort stuff.
  9. does anyone have pictures of the shape of the stripping? im looking at a reasonable replacement for a car, that i am going to beat the crap out of. http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=rt801y
  10. the car has sat, got the dash out, pulled most of the engine bay harness.
  11. what were the issues you ran into that you were unhappiest with?
  12. This guy is getting a fun fast track. nothing fancy other than the looks of the bay. some mods, and an RB20 maybe 25. painless wiring. ripping the old out as we speak. dash is out, to examine the even more places we have rust, but still wanting to drive.
  13. Did you have a chance to compare the factory driveshaft to the aftermarket shaft you received. i was considering the rb20 for the seamless bolt in affair, even though i would have no problem making mounts for the rb26/5.
  14. I purchased the 21 Circut for 130. Prices have dropped well. For those of you still on here, how did you tie in your blinker stalk?
  15. i had this happen to me on my fair lady about a week ago. rust on top of rot ontop of bondo. then i realized, i could beat the crap out of this car for fun. not purposely smash it with a sledge, but over drive it, plastidip it. make it fun.
  16. I agree with miles. In the area I do not agree with is measuring mechanical ability. Replace mechanic with engineer in this manner. Do not alter the brackets. I found this while searching for a tinker toy post from 07 that upgrades to rear disc. Complete rear hub replacement to install better axles. Keyword axles. Not u joints
  17. the motor is completely out, and for sale on ebay now. the undercarriage, of whats left, is in dismay. pictures below
  18. http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/npttap.htm Refer to above for npt http://www.ktmatvhq.com/forum/attachments/sx-suspension-steering-chassis-wheels-tires/4664d1317889637-adding-grease-zerks-stock-ball-joints-tap-drill-guide.jpg Above for drill and tap. I'm a machinist and find information in links conforming f To machinist handbook. I talked to you on facebook last nite.
  19. Got to pull the flat tops off. Along with the exhaust mani. Bit much corrosion. Rear right quarter needs the most attention. Weld or rebuild. We shall see. It will take a solid 8 hours.
  20. This would have never left my shop. the welds look a bit slopy. the sheet metal work looks horendous. the lack of penetration and bracing reinforces the lack of knowledge and capability on the fabricators part.
  21. I have one as well. 6785446472. Located close to macon ga
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