PhaTTy

The gunmetal grey used on R32, R33 and 300zx is KH2

I would go with Autozone's Cordone if it has a good warranty. Never had to replace one but cordone has always been good for me.

Had same problem and am currently working on fixing. The problem was in the plastic connector from the lighting wiring harness to the combination switch plastic connector in the steering column. Somehow some of the wires shorted and burnt the side of the plastic connector to bits. Now I have to find a source to replace my '83 connectors for both ends (male and female) so I can fix it. Might wanna try checking that out also. Aaron

Hey.. I was looking at the 280 Series Cobra R rims at http://www.performancewheeloutlet.com/detail.asp?pt=280+Series+Cobra+R and was wondering if these would fit my '83 280zx with 275/40/17's. If so, is it a good idea.. If not.. how could I make them fit Aaron

Quite and old topic.. but I've been snooping around: http://www.led-r-us.com/lights.shtml http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm http://www.superbrightleds.com/truck_lights.htm Just some ideas.. Let me know what you guys think

Well.. got my '83 280zx N/A torn apart so I decided to upgrade the ECU to a MicroTech. I was in the process of removing extra junk from my intake/etc.... I already removed the AFM, EGR, air regulator, (maybe cruise control) .. about everything I saw I am removing since I find no use for it with the new ecu. Now my question is this.. in the process of removing this stuff, a lot of air hoses and vacuum lines were routed through these devices. I would like some advice on which vacuum lines/air hoses need to remain and what there uses are. I know the one larger hose that went from the afm<->tb hose connected to the valve cover and is no longer needed since I can just throw a small K&N filter on the valve cover breather. But I need to know what else I need to do and if I need to fabricate anything. I will also be throwing on a 240sx TB w/ spacer if that helps. Dont think too hard

i am using dished pistons. I called the machine shop to put the P79 on hold while I try to get ahold of a N42. Thx for all the help.

So basically it would just be easier to get a N42/N47 head and have it shimmed? If so, how much could/should I have it shimmed. Sorry for all the questions, but I want to get this right

It is the P79 head that I have. Is there an easier way than putting longer valves and shimming the cam tower? Edit - talked to my brother and we thought maybe a N42 or N47 head would be a lot cheaper to get and maybe shave it .020 instead of messing with this P79 head. Let me know how this sounds.

I have my head (I believe its a N47 or P79) at a machine shop. While it is there I am wondering how much I should have it milled. I have researched on here and seen most people are doing theirs 80 thousands or so. Everything else in the block/head is stock and this is a N/A car. What could I expect the CR to be and will everything clear if I do 80 thousands. Any recommendations/comments are welcome

Well.. after doing some more research, it seems that the LS1/LT1 engines are quite expensive to mod. I am rethinking just a SBC 350 from say 70's-92.. Me and my dad may be building it up for power, but I would appreciate some suggestions on what car to get the motor out of (that has the highest stock HP), and preferably something I could find in a salvage yard. Thanks

OK.. fun fun fun.. I have done some researching and was wondering what I could expect from the following setup: I can get a LS1 out of a Police Interceptor at a local salvage yard.. (may even buy the whole car, who knows).. I am thinking of going with a LS1 or LT1 (which would you prefer?).. But I also want to put a StealthRam MPFI on the car, and was wondering what engine(s) the Holley (or any other Stealthram MPFI) would fit? I am in Arizona, so I have received many suggestions to use injection rather than a carb setup. I am going to be drag racing this car from time to time down at the local track and I want something that I can drive every day and still get the power when I need it. Any suggestions/comments? And anybody have a price range that it would cost to do this conversion to a '83 280zx? Thank ya

Don't really have the funds at the moment.. I was sort of getting some ideas for what to shoot for in the next 3 months or so. Thx for the info though!

Hrmm.. Did I mention I hate computers in cars.. Anyways.. I would not mind putting a newer engine with all the electronics and computer crap on, but I would be totally lost trying to program the stuff. Thats sort of why I was leaning on an older engine or a custom built engine, that way I have some power over what electronics the car really needs and what is just excess EPA-owning crap. So I guess my main question is, how hard is it to hook up all the electronics/computers on the newer engines, and what is the benefit?

Ok.. back to the engine.. I looked around on ebay for 350/383 engines, and there are some decent ones out there. I am in the Tucson/Phoenix AZ area so there are a lot of engine builders around here. Should I get a complete engine used, or just have one built to my specs or build it myself? I don't know what kind of HP I would need to achieve a 13 second 1/4 mile, so anybody with experience, feel free to speak up. I am leaning towards a late 70's, early 80's engine if I buy used due to the emissions crap I don't want to deal with, but if having one built is the best option, please speak up with your opinions Thx for the help so far.. amazing!

I do not really want an excessive amount of electronics on the engine, but I suppose if I go injection that will be the case.. I am sort of bending on the 80's vette or camaro engine and doing some work on them. Anybody ever had any luck finding an 80's vette in a salvage yard or an engine from one cheap? Also why the 700R4 tranny for racing.. I was thinking stick, but an auto does make more sense so you don't have time to think about shifting. What would be the comparison of say a 700R4 vs a T5/T56 tranny.

Alrighty.. where to begin. What I want to do: I am planning on drag racing my '83 280zx when I am all done with it. I want to be able to run at least a high 13 second 1/4 mile and a decent 0-60 time also. I am interested in dropping a SBC (350-383) in it, with headers. I do not know if carb or injection would be better for a good balance of mileage/power. I am in Arizona and where I live all I need to have on the car emissions-wise is a catylitic converter and possibly an EGR (they don't usually check that). I want it to run on 91-92 octane pump gas and get decent gas mileage (15 mpg might be a far fetched wish for this) What I need help with: What engine, tranny, drivetrain, suspension, brakes, etc... basically everything I would want to do to the car to make it into a fast car that is streetable (with 91-92 octane pump gas). I am thinking of throwing the idea at a local performance engine builder, but I would love to do this with my father, who is an experienced mechanic. My budget: I would hope to get away with this for 5 grand, but anywhere between 5-10 grand could be done. A ton of questions, and do realize I am serious about doing the conversion, but just have a TON of questions/concerns. Time to wait for the flaming replies Aaron Tucson, AZ

The CAT should be bolted onto the rest of the eaxust pipe... unless somebody welded a different one into the system... I would try disconnecting it at the front of the CAT, and if it runs... hook it back up and themn disconnect it right after the CAT, and if it doesn't run, then you have found your problem... Way easier than disconnecting the manifold again...

hehe, I don't think it is junk floating around in the tank... when it messed up today, one of the first things I checked was the fuel system... It was working perfectly.. There was tons of rust in the tank when I first got the car... took forever before I got it all out... I used to have to change the filter every 2 weeks...

You said it would die if you pushed the car or closed the door... Sounds like you have a really bad connection somewhere... It is definetely not vapor lock... That hardly ever happens on a Z, and your engine would have to be running extremely hot for it to even be possible.

Well, I let my brother borrow my car today, and it messed up worse than it has ever messed up before... I had to go and try to figure out what was wrong... and I coudn't figure it out, so I limped it home.... The only thing is, it completely fixed itself by the time we got home... This usually happens every few months, and I am getting sick of it... I just can't figure it out... the past few weeks, it has messed up more than a few times, but it always fixes itself... maybe somebody here can help. K, here's the deal... Every once in a while, while I am driving, my car just starts missing real bad, sometimes to the point of not even being able to idle or for that matter run at all.... And other times, it just won't idle, but if I keeps the rev's above 3,000, then it runs fine there.... and other times, it will backfire really bad like it is either getting a spark at the right time (maybe mech advance hanging up)... but it will backfire no matter what the RPMs are, so that doesn't make sense... Sometimes it will idle good, and then when I go to take off it either just dies or hesitates really bad... Other times it runs perfect.... (able to burn all the way through 1st and most of the way through second)... Here is what I know is not the problem: Fuel pump Fuel pressure regulator Injectors computer lack of needed electricity The engine is in excellent condition mechanically... good compression, etc, etc... overheating oil pressure Throttle Position Sensor bad ground (unless it is inside the car somewhere) The only thing I can figure is maybe the AFM (I suspect this the most), maybe a huge vaccum leak that I can't seem to find...(when the car messes up, I can take the oil cap off and it will still run the same... normally it will almost die) maybe the distributor(dizzy), or the coil(didn't help when I switched it before though, so I don't think that is it....) Also, here are a few odds and ends that may help... The cold start valve has never worked (it is good, cause if I hook it up to one of the other injector plugs and scrank the engine, gas comes out)... never have been able to trace down why it doesn't work... It is not a California model, so it doesn't have all that un-necessary emmitions equipement (catylyc converter, etc) If anybody has any clue as where to point me, it would be much appreciated... Thanks

You said it ran before you fixed the exhaust leak, and after you fixed it, it would only idle and you couldn't give it any gas... sounds like the catylyc convertor is completely clogged up (or at least something in the exhaust system).... maybe a rat crawled in there and died or maybe somebody stuck a potato up the exhaust pipe....

All ya need to do it is something to push the "pintle", and a can of carbeurator cleaner... spray some carbuerator cleaner on the tip of the injector (needs to be upside down, and the push the "pintle" so the injector is open... Do this several times to each injector, and they will work like they are brand new...

I believe the head I am referring to is the N47 (am not sure, but my brother has either the N42 or N47 on his '76 280z and it will throw you back in your seat) .. Anyway, maybe someone can clear up which one it is that I want.

OK.. The block in the car is the F54 but am not sure if it has flat tops or not in it (1983 N/A GL) .. If it does have the flat-tops, the N42 is sounding pretty good to me so far. As I said before I am not an experienced mechanic so as much details as I would need to tell a machine shop or my dad (experienced mechanic) to do to a N42 .. would be much appreciated.