Jump to content
HybridZ

jagster

Members
  • Posts

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jagster

  1. Still trying to find a decent body shell. That's all I need, but will buy a complete car. I have a kit car conversion and all the pieces I need to put one together,but my two cars are rusty, and I don't want to weld one back together. I am in the MIdwess, Hopkinsville,KY 270 886 7933 Hope one is close to me. Hauling is expensive. Oh, no title needed either, as I have two. ron
  2. I am looking for help and advice on this swap. If somebody has lived through this, they know what the big issues are. I already have the engine/tranny,and two cars. I will do the search too, but really need advice first hand. Thanks. If you have a thread on this already, just let me know. ron
  3. I have a 78 280 two seater, and I think the tank is OK, but would not swear to it, anyway, shipping will be a *****. I am in Western Kentucky
  4. I am in the same boat right now, and have been searching for some answers myself. I have an LT-1 and a T-56 that I pulled from a strong-running Pontiac trans am 1994, and would like to put it in my 73 or 78. Lots of people recommend the 280 because it is supposed to be stronger structurally. But, here's the real question; what about mounts for the new engine? make 'em or try to buy 'em? Do any of you have first-hand experience at this,and I have questions on the injection hookup too. thanks. Are there archives on this?
  5. I have a couple and I am in Western Kentucky. Let me know if you need 'em.
  6. I think he is right on the 75 to 78 dished pistons, as they lowered the compression to 8.3=l, about the same as the turbo setup. Check with zcar garage. they know it all.
  7. jagster

    aluminun drums

    I have a pair too off my 73 240, and I redid my rear brakes with 240SX discs. You can have them cheap, but the shipping cost will suck. I am in western Kentucky. let me know.
  8. I have a set of wheels on my 73 240Z and they were made by Weld wheel, which is part of American Racing. They are unique, in that the center cap that hides the bolts/lugs is large and it screws on. Has a hex-looking head and you can put it on with a wrench. Anyway, Ihave looked everywhere,and they are not to be found. Ican send a pix if you will send me an email address. I would like to keep them, but two of them have dents in the rims, but hold air. They are 16 X 7 inch. Any and all help really appreciated. thanks.
  9. I have made the swap to early carbs so many times I have lost count on 260Z's. The flat tops are junk, period. OK, if originality is important,then play with them ad nauseum,but to be able to reliably drive the car,then the early carbs are the way to go. The original knockoffs of the famous SU carb are bone simple and really make a difference.
  10. Does anyone have any of these yellow-painted springs lying around? I have the two fronts and the KYB shocks that came with the springs. The seller went to coil-overs on his drag race car and sold these to me. I have checked around, and some sources said they were no longer made. So, I am asking here if anyone has any of these springs for the rear. I can get the shocks, no problem. Thanks for the help.
  11. I have a 73 Z and it has some 16 inch wheels that were made by Weld Racing. Interesting in that they have those center-screw on caps. Two are bent, but hold air OK, but I would like to find a pair, or 4 more if possible. They have 8 bolt holes in two sizes. They are a perfect fit, and I like 'em. ANy and all help and advice greatly appreciated.
  12. My z car came with 16 X 7, Weld wheels with the screw-on center caps and two of the wheels have bends in the rims. I have searched everywhere for two replacements, or a whole set, but nothing has surfaced. I really like them, and have never seen them on a Z before. If you email me an address, I can send a pix. Thanks. Ron
  13. I am trying to find a pair of the yellow painted springs for a 240Z for the rear struts. My front set came with KYB shocks, if that helps. I think the company that used to sell them was TURN SIX, and was told they were out of business, I have seen them many times on Z-cars in the past, but can't seem to find any now. Any and all help greatly appreciated. My email is jagster911@bellsouth.net Thanks. Phone: 270 886 7933
  14. not exactly like those, but for a while, one of the aftermarket fiberglass people here was making a very nice rear taillight section that had twin round lights and gave a Ferrari look. I sure would like to find out if anyone still makes that piece.
  15. Wow! I can't believe you are up in Gurnee, Il. My brother lived up there for years. I am from the Chicago area myself, and am a certified car nut, having owned more cars than most families would own in a lifetime. I have been into Jaguars forever, had 3 Aston Martins,and the rest is way too many to count. I have always admired the 250GTO since it came out,and watched a number of them race. The other Ferrari I admire, perhaps moreso, is the 250 GT Berlinetta, and sure wish someone would consider doing a kit for that model. It was a short wheelbase car. I hope you get this memo, and give me a call sometime, or an email. You seem to have a good handle on these cars, and I really want to build one on my 240Z chassis. Anyway, so glad I found this site and will watch it with great interest. Ron Stephenson, Hopkinsville,Ky 270 886 7933 jagster911@bellsouth.net
  16. Hello, anyone out there know of any of these 250 body kits that are never going to be finished? I have a 73 240 that I am making mechanically strong, and the body is nasty, and this would be a great opportunity to do the body over with this kit. Would like to hear from some of you who have suffered through this conversion and educate me on what I am getting into. Thanks in advance. Oh, I am in Hopkinsville, KY, have a nice big shop and have wanted to do this conversion for lots of years, never got around to it. What do you think of the roadster model?
  17. Well, it's obvious there are not too many purists left. The car and the engine/exhaust make the music.
  18. Fiberglas is not the best material for a car body, and trying to combine it with steel is an invitation to disaster. I had a 76 Z with the full kit, and it looked horrible when finished. No amount of discussion with the body people would resolve the issues. After a couple months, the cracks started appearing. I wound up selling the car to a lady who thought it was a 'cool-looking ride' and she looked right past all the flaws. Go figure. Any mods I do will be metal to metal, maybe some lead or braze to hold it all together, and make it smooth. The older vettes were famous for cracks at stress points, and they got lots of strengthening when they were getting prepared for new paint.
  19. Yep, they are different in the diameter where the bushings go. I have been through that one on the early and later cars. We used to use some old seatbelt strapping as a cheap fix for looseness. Also, the old rubber connector farther up on the steering column can be changed out. This is an often overlooked item and can give some weird sensations in the steering too. Don't overlook loose wheel bearings, worn out ball joints and tie rod ends. Old cars need attention in these areas. All of them will cause sloppiness in the steering. Of course, if the rack is worn out........
  20. The name of the company is TABCO, and they make it all......look 'em up on the Web.
  21. I am currently in the middle of a resurection myself, and the car looked solid, and it drives and shifts fine, starts right up. Of course the floors have some rust, as do the fender arches and some starting on the frame rails up front. But,the car itself is straight, and it does not appear to have gotten any front end or rear end 'kisses'. I have a mig welder and am going to go over this car with a finetooth comb, and perhaps reinforce places that are the least bit suspicious. I have seen so many of these cars that were beyond hope, and there is always the 'dreamer' who thinks that Bondo is a miracle product, and all you have to do is hide the nasty stuff. If you find one that is a Fred Flintstone Special, keep walking unless you need drivetrain spares. A couple of small holes in the floors is not bad, but look at frame rails and strut towers as these are hard, and expensive to repair.
  22. Wow! hey, you need to look at the carbs themselves and the manifold, particularly the under side of the manifold where the carbs bolt to it. Ihave found that the little 'freeze plugs' sometimes just fall out, and if you plumb the thing for water, it is going to go everywhere! The spacers you are talking about allow that water to go through the carb base as on the junk carbs you took off. Without resorting to plugging the holes, just make yourself some gaskets out of a corn flake box without the holes and ;use some permatex form-a-gasket on both sides of your new 'gasket'. I have done this swap many times on lots of 260's and 280's and yes, even ZX's. I would say dump as much of the plumbing as you can. All you need is hot water going to the heater and a way for it to get back. All that other crap is for emissions junk.
  23. Yes, I have read everything on the threads, have been in touch with Mr. Washington, and even talked to Joe Alphabet (real name) who started the whole controversy. He and another designer discussed the similarities in the designs of the two cars and thought it would be an interesting project. These were the Alpha cars that quickly got sold to Eagle after Joe was threatened by Ferrari to cease and desist. One of the early pix that surfaced in the auto mags showed the car parked outside a Ferrari dealership, my guess, in California. Of course, McBurnie got in on the fun, and produced a few cars. I am sure there are a number of people who have gotten into the act, have taken molds off some of the early cars, and have gotten into business for a short while. It is a timeless design, and it's understandable that many people would like a replica of it. Same goes for the fabulous XK-E or e-type cars. A few replicas have surfaced, and some Brits make metal replicas of the car. Do it right, and you will spend the same money as an original. Same goes for Ferrari knockoffs. I believe that Mr. Washington has done the best job of putting together a kit that can be assembled easily and made into a decent car, with a little time and patience. The Cobra thing is very well established, and no further coverage is necessary here, only to mention the Cobra kit for the Z car. Not one of the better attempts.
  24. Wow, another trip into unknown territory. I have long admired the 250 GTO body and really would like to do this swap, but there are pitfalls and a great deal of fabrication that goes with the job. It looks simple in the color brochures they send you, and the 'magic' bonding agent they sell sure looks simple. I just wonder how many of these kits have started coming apart where the bonding takes place, and the paint starts to show the cracks. Looks like the convertible offers the best chance of success, as you don't have those exposed roof sections to worry about. And I like the 'clamshell' hood, much like my XK-E, only the whole thing won't rust away. LOL. Looks like this project is similar to making a silk purse out of a sow's ear. It can be done, but be prepared for some grief. Sure glad I researched this thread. Thanks to all. Ron
  25. Yes, I have one, and the guy has not paid for it yet. see attached pix. Oops, not smart enough add the pix, something about a URL , email me at jagster911@bellsouth, and I know how to send it that way. ron
×
×
  • Create New...