ecp48

Drax, Thanks, but what about the rears. I am finding the same thing there. I will be using the 240SX calipers and the 84 Maxima brackets. Thanks, Ed

Just went to buy my new rotors for the Toyota S12W Calipers and the 240SX rear calipers on my '78 280Z. The parts man asked whether it was US or Canadian? What is the difference between Canadian and US Rotors. The 1984 US were four lugs, were the Canadian five Lugs? Is this the difference? A little help please. Thanks in advance. ecp48 Ed Palmer

Hey guys, I am heading to my local boneyard and need some information. Anyone know what the minimum dimension (width) is on the 280ZX rear rotors before turning/refacing. Also the same dimension for the 84 300ZX ventilated front disk/rotor. Thanks in advance. ecp48

On my old 75, I split the rear '72 brackets and welded the remainder of each to the tow hook pads on each side. The mounts at the ends of the bumbers were bolted through the recess in the fenders. On the front, I inserted the stock '72 bracket into the frame recess, replacing the bumper shocks and fastened in place with the same bolt which held the bumper shock. The ends again were bolted though the fenders. Very secure from a looks standpoint. If hit, it would collapse. ecp48 PS, when the crewcab duelly GMC hit it in the rear, it acted like tinfoil, but it sure looked nice for a couple of years!

Tomohawk When I first started using eBay and Paypal, I gave them a credit card. The card has little or no open to buy and I free it up only when I am purchasing something. It works real well in most cases and avoids the problem you are having. I have opened/changed the account now and hooked in a bank account number mainly because I am selling as well as buying and it facilitates the transactions. Like the credit card, ther is never a large balance (less than $25.00) in the checking account, unless I want to purchase something. Paypal can not verify your balance only submit drafts when you authorize. Anyone else who got the number, whether through Paypal's/ebay's records or whatever couldn't get anything because of the miniscule balance. Try it, ecp48

Anyone heard of a SW13, Caliper from the 4Runner or Toyota 4wd V6 Pickup? I have talked with a seller on eBay and it appears that it might be the successor to the S12W, for use with a ventilated disk, 84 300ZX rotor. Can anyone confirm this? the seller says he is not a mechanic, but he acquired them from a Z owner. Thanks in advance for your assistance. ecp48 Ed Palmer

Nathan, Thanks for the response. A couple of questions. Do all Z31s use a MAF, for some reason I was thinking only the turbos had a MAF. When using the Z31 MAF and ECU, does it require the addition of an O2 Sensor on the 280 (78 280Z)? Will the Turbo Injectors provide too much fuel or will the ECU adjust for it? I know my conversion, F54 Short block with shaved P90 head (.080) (pocket ported), Cam and Headers will be on the lean side, but would the turbo injectors be overkill? Has anyone done a schematic or "how to" on this conversion? Your help is much appreciated. Ed Palmer

Whenever MAF is discussed with respect to the 280, the topic always deals with the Turbo. Why not the naturally aspirated High Performance 280Z. Any restriction on the intake side is a negative, which is why there so many MAF sizes/options for the 5.0 Ford. I would like to see something, which allows a MAF to be used with the stock Fuel Injection on a Modified 280Z NA. ecp48

Sorry I should have looked at what I wrote, I meant to say that the Z was produced into 1980, not 1978. Thanks, ecp48

I was told by a local Datsun Tech, now with his own shop, that the 280Z was produced into 1978 in SE Asia, which includes NZ and Australia. He also said that like the late US spec 280Z (post May, 1978), they were closer to a 280ZX in all of the wiring and ancillary circuitry, than the previous 280Zs. Hope this helps, ecp48

I have a 1978 280 which has the bumpers removed. On the front is the remaining piece of the MSA Aero Kit, ie: Dam with molded bumper. The rear was shaved by the prior owner, due to curing the rust which came up under the aerokit, ie: rockers and rear. Car looks good in MOA. It seems to ride about 1/2" higher than normal. I am preparing to install 240Z lowering springs and Tokiko HP strut cartridges. I believe it will arrive at a total drop of about 1.5". I tried to paste a picture on here, but apparently I am using the wrong method. ecp48

I have a copy of a Mitchel Eectrical Schematic for the Z. My Scanner is the pits or I'd scan it and email it. Fuel injection relay, Fuel Pump Relay and Fuel Pump Control Relay on my car. I am not sure if it is the same for all 78 280s. the Datsun Tech I talked with said they changed to this format in the last half of the '78 run, appx, May. Previously, 75 - 77 were all close. ecp48

It would work well as an undercoat (super protection) but the preparation would be a killer. It adheres best to a clean, dry surface which has surface corrosion, or they have a precoat which etches the surface to allow the POR-15 to bond. You would have a tough time cleaning the surface to the standard you would need. Check out the POR-15 Website. I used google recently, it will give you more info. Good luck, ecp48

And another Me too! Thanks a lot, ecp48

The paint adhered well. Much better than Dad's project. Sitting partially finished in his side yard. No rust has come back. Paint was a primer, no finish coat was applied. Great product. ecp48

My dad used it in fighting cancer (rust) on a '53 Chevy P/U 18 or 19 years ago. Back then POR-15 was the sole product and yes it did take primer. The biggest problem I saw with it, was obtaining a smooth surface. You normally brush on the POR-15 and removing the brush marks, takes a lot of sanding due to the hardness of the coating. Hope this helps. Ed Palmer PS: Using it myself on my 280, but in the fenderwells and frame rail areas.

Mike, You're real close (35 miles +-) to where I live, Athens, Ga. However, I'm presently in Lafayette, IN. working on a project. won't be back until the third. Enjoy your stay and the new job. Incidently, the 280Z I own was hauled back from Fairfax, back in April. ecp48

Dayz Likewise, please. envirolw@earthlink.net thanks, Ed

For immediate (almost ) gratification try Autozone. They overnight energy suspension. ecp48

Trevor, I'm not sure. I was delayed in getting over to it. I will have it relocated so that I can work on it tomorrow. I would assume it is an R200 due to the year (1984), but you know how assumptions are! ecp48

Thanks Mat73GNZ, I knew I'd read there was a difference, but didn't realize it was the bolt size. ecp48

I have been researching this on a variety of sites. I can't remember where it came up, but supposedly the Late R200 differentials used a large diameter Ring Gear. This might screw up your use of the LSD in the early 3.54 housing. I was looking at using the 300ZX Turbo LSD and my present 3.90 Gear set when this came up. Other than what I've stated, I have no personal knowledge. ecp48

Thanks, Gentlemen, I was sort of hoping for a 3.90, but I guess 3.70 isnt bad. Ed

Thanks, Gentlemen, I was sort of hoping for a 3.90, but I uges 3.70 isnt bad. Ed

I am pulling the rear caliper brackets from a 1984 Nissan Maxima. Does anyone have an idea as to what the differential ratio would be for this car? I have to break the CV joints/axles loose and it wouldn't take musch more to pull the differential if the ratio is interesting. It has an automatic if that makes a difference. Thanks, ecp48