wondersparrow

thats kinda what my goal is going to be. I want those carbs to be cool before getting back on the track.

hmm, excellent idea as well. The blanket probably wouldnt make a good sealing surface between the carbs and the intake manifold though, but a combination of the two would work out well. To answer some of the questions above... Electric fuel pump coming off a fuel cell, thru a race filter and regulator, to a little manifold. Equal length rubber fuel lines from the manifold to each carb..... The headers and exhaust are all bare, no thermal insulation of any kind. I was going to take care of that after the school anyways, didnt think it would be an issue if i wasn't running it that hard.

well, I think both options are going to be put in place. My plan for a heat shield was to cover both sides of a piece of aluminum with sheets of manifold gasket material and bend that into a nice heat shield. That would both insulate me better from the intake manifold and the heat below. For reference, my carbs are setup as follows. 45dcoe carbs, 36 chokes, 55F9 idle jets, 45 accel jets, 180 air corrector, F2 emulsion tubes, and 140 main jets. I live in Edmonton and the race was in Calgary, I belive that the elevations are 2373' and 3557' respectively.

I have the little plastic ones with o-rings. I really do think that all the heat was coming up from the exhaust header. That and it really didnt like idling. It would get quite hot in just a minute or two. Probably time for a better rad, maybe some electric fans. I may have been over fuelling the engine at idle (esp for that altitude). The engine was prepped by the previous owner. It has a full-out race cam of which I have no specs (but will investigate soon), flat top pistons, 10L nissan comp oil pan, and an extremely well ported head. I just put in the entire exhaust system, bought it used. It was only ever used in one race meet about 8 years ago, which I was at. The car won every race . Its 6-2 header with a custom collector to a 2.5" straight pipe. The jetting in the webers is quite large for a 2.4L and I found out this weekend that the prev owner never really got the carbs right. I have completely rebuilt/cleaned all of them, but I will likely want to tone down the jets later. I post what I am using tomorrow after a good night sleep.

So I took my 240z battle tank to the race school. All I can say is that the s30 is one sweet as car. The AZC brake kit (6 piston front 4 piston rear 12.25" disks) were able to far outbreak some pretty serious cars (ie. a new GTR) The tilton dual master cylinder setup was bang on, perfect balance pretty much right out of the box. The car hauled pretty good, but ran into a few problems relating to the trip webers. First off, my idle was way out to lunch, had it tuned here, but the city the school was held was at a much higher elevation. It was more than simply turning screws could fix. Guess its time to order a bunch of jets. The second problem was that I boiled the fuel in the carbs. Probably due to all the idling waiting in line for the different exercises. So a small fire brought some added excitement to an already exciting day. Has anyone else run into this issue before? What did you do to fix it? Some of the things I would like to try out are - ceramic coat the headers, build a heatshield for the carbs, and have a really close look at my timing. I was running VP M109, so I may need more advance. All in all a great weekend, but now I have some homework

sweet, thats exactly what I was after

I have a few sets of wheels for my track car. One problem I have is that one set uses shank-type lugs and the other 2 sets use tapers. A few people have told me that there are sleeves that you can press in to the shank-type wheels to allow the use of taper nuts. The problem is I can't seem to find them anywhere and I don't really know what to call them (makes googling difficult). Has anyone heard of such a beast? And/or know where to get them?

they fit my 15x7's. I have no idea what the offset is, but I would assume it would be whatever is stock (they came with the car). I have 2 different rims of the same size that do fit, but both need spacers, and one set that doesn't. The two sets that fit are alloy and the one that doesn't is welded steel. I have the 6 piston fronts and 4 piston rears. Both have issues with the face of the wheel being too close, not the inside of the rim. The rear just needed a 1/8" spacer, the front needed 1/2" inch. I would assume the 4 piston fronts are somewhere in between. I really think the shape of the inside face of the wheel has more to do with the rims fitting than anything else.

I got a tilton triple master cyl overhung pedal set. If its not a track car, I wouldnt reccomend them. Maybe the firewall mount would work better, but keep in mind the firewall is not as much a flat straight surface as you might think. With the way the Z is setup, it is quite hard to get the pedals far enough to the right (passenger side). I put them in as close as possible, but that still leaves the gas the gas pedal quite far away. Someone with a little more skill/time/patience may be able to do a better job. My solution is going to be moving the gas pedal at a later time. The main reason I decided to get new pedals is that the old ones were bent and welded and rewelded and generally looked pretty beat.

Budget for upgrades is quite variable. As long as the expense is justified. The only reason funds are tight right now is that I have been enjoying a forced retirement (laid off) for the past 3 mos. I took advantage of the break to get the car this far and spend the bulk of my prep budget. Once I decide to get off my butt and get another job more funds will be allocated Yes I would like to keep the webers, and I do get good spark. Its just, as we all know, the car will never be done. I am a huge fan of small displacement n/a engines that can put out good power. I got my daily driver b16 honda up to 225hp and I would love to do something similar with my l6 for the track. I know it has its limitations, but this engine is really starting to grow on me.

Good day all. Well phase 1 of my project is nearly completed, get the car ready to run the roadrace school. There are two schools, a solo school on the 18th and a full roadcourse school on the 2nd I want to attend. Car seems to run well, once its started. Running triple webers, serious race cam, flat top pistons, crane hi-6 ignition, and a well ported head on a 2.4. I will be running vp 106 fuel, just need to go get some more. I still have the stock distributor. The previous owner set it up with no vacuum advance. This seems to make low rpm and starting not so great. For roadrace and autocross setups (no street), would you guys use the vacuum advance? Funds are tight, so right now I have to work with what I have, I can leave it as is or hook up the vac adv. The second part of my question is, what would you upgrade to if you were going to? I see some MSD electronic distributors, the Kimeari distributor (which I can find little info about), and of course some other vacuum and centrifugal models. They all seem to have thier advantages and disadvantages, especially if you put price in as a factor. Advice and comments appreciated.

my car is very hard to start when its cold/cool. It all has to do with the timing and my rediculous cam. It is a track only car, so I dont care as long as it starts when its warm. I have found however that if I really want to get it going when its cold, I can retard the timing a bit and them move it back after its run for a bit. I think it was someone on this site that once said something along the lines of "forest gump it. Run it rich and retarded and it will start." then go from there.

Even then, tuning is mostly replacing parts that can be accessed without removing the carbs. The idle screw seems to be the only really "adjustable" part. As for the starting circuit, next time my carbs are off, I am going to look into blocking off and removing that mess altogether. I hear they are often prone to leaking when they get older.

now webers on a rotary, thats the sh## right there, it is. A have a friend that uses that setup in a sports racer. That little engine goes like mad.

In my research I kindof got the impression that webers are like rotary engines. Those who love them, love them. Those who know nothing about them fear them. Its all a matter of finding the right places.

I just redid my 45's a few months ago. Never touched a carb before in my life. Picked up a couple of books and googled the crap out of them. Really, they arent that complicated. Getting them on and off the manifold is half the battle I used the redline rebuild kits as well and just generally took them apart and put them back together. The first one, I took apart and cleaned one piece at at time. I was pretty comfortable with them by the time I got to the third one. Completely stripped, cleaned, and rebuilt it in under 4 hours (with lots of soaking/beer time). There arent many, if any, parts on the carb that can be put in the wrong place. I guess the pump valve.... The standard parts list you see everywhere, ie. http://www.mgexperience.net/article/45dcoe.html is a good reference. A copy comes in each of the rebuilt kits, and are quite legible when soaked in solvent, hehe. The weber sticky thread is a great resource too. I read it begining to end a couple times. 1 had one leaky float, replaced that. And for some reason I had 1 choke that was different from the other 5; replaced that. Other than that, I replaced no parts that weren't in the rebuild kits. I think it was a great experience and I am sure taking the time to learn as much as I can about them will pay off later. Oh, yeah, I never did get my accelerator jets out. On all three they were seized right in there. They all work well, and certainly don't leak, I just didnt want to break them by trying to force them. I am sure if I gave them a good soak they would come out, I just didn't have the patience. Everything else was butter.

could be an internal leak in the master. are there signs of leaking anywhere?

I dropped in some of those "late model GM" arp studs and got some new open ended wheel nuts so that I could try different sizes of spacers, looks like it will work great. Everything is installed now, just hasnt yet been driven. For some reason I tried to find better studs that were 1.25 to save the money of new lugs. Honestly, waste of time. The GM ones are available everywhere it seems. And as an added bonus, they are 5 lug packs, so you have a few spares if you need them.

No worries, just making sure you were aware. You guys provide a fantastic service, who am I to complain Thanks Braap!

Is it just me or has the site been really slow at times lately? It seems sometimes I can't even get the pages to load. Tried it from a couple of times today from different locations (with different isp's) with the same result. Seems fine now though.

when braking at speed (any speed really) the weight will shift towards the front of the car. The fronts are then capable of using much more braking power. I am pretty sure it works out to more than 80% of the braking is done by the front wheels. Any more stopping power to the rears and they will lock up causing a spin. I personally went with the azc setup on all four corners for my track car. They should have much better cooling, be lighter, and hopefully last longer. The rears that come in that kit are really oversized. honestly, there is probably weight to be saved by using more appropriately sized rear calipers.

I hit it with the grinder and took a fair bit off, then used a jack to lift each corner of the car to make sure it doesnt contact the rotor. As the whole car is still currently on jackstands, I didnt want to bounce it too much, but it looks like there is ~1/16" clearance still. I'll double check everything once the car is on the ground.

these are definately scalloped. Maybe AZC has new hats to make the 240 hubs fit. The disks are quite close to lca, but i get the impression that is the case with the 280 hubs as well.

Heh, cant say I have. I think I'll take that advice and look for a different way to upgrade the gas pedal sometime.

Omg, I was just thinking it would be amazing if someone had undertakend a project like this. Big kudos for taking this on I look forward to the wonders that this thread has to offer.