wondersparrow

hmmm, the triple sets are quite pricey, but it would be pretty sweet to have a nice uniform pedal set. I have 5 weeks to get this thing ready for the school, I am trying to be careful to not bite off more than I can chew. Luckily I don't have to have the body fully done for the school. Floor mount is kindof attractive (if it fits, the z feels tight for me as is) as you dont have to manufacture some sort of mount for it.

I thought the same, but I told him that I had a 240 (fully expecting to have to change). When the boxes got here, they had "use 240z hub" written on them, and they fit great. This car is a bit of a pain because it has been a track car most of its life, its had many owners, and nothing is documented. From the pictures I have found, it did look like the 240 hub though.

Ak sweet, I haven't yet taken apart all the stock pedals/master cylinders yet. I'll double check to see what the clutch master says on it, thanks Jon. Hoov, How did you get the master cyls and pedals for that price, that seems really low. The pedals alone seem to be more than that. Has anyone used anything like these http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=8&m=b ?? It really would be nice to have a good gas pedal to go with everything, but it looks like I would have to change out to a cable. It could prove to be a little tricky with triple carbs.

hmmm, oddly enough, both the rep at tilton and my calculations imply I should start with a 13/16" front and a 1-1/8" rear. That seems odd to me, but those 4 piston rears really are overkill (hehe, makes the 6 piston fronts seem tame). I'll probably go with that and see where I end up. Back to one of the original questions... What size should I use for the clutch? Does anyone know what the stock one is?

Hmm, got the Baer spacers today, they don't fit... As expected the centre bore is not large enough. If the AZC brakes didn't fit so perfectly, I would suspect that I don't have 240z hubs. Were there different hubs for the 240's? The unfortunate thing is that living in Alberta means you can't get the attention of a machine shop without waving thousands of dollars in the air. I'll probably just get a flapper wheel and open these up myself.

well, one of the reasons I decided to go this way is one of the previous owners must have thought himself a fabricator and made his own pedals. The clutch literally has a block of wood for the pedal surface and its held on by electrical tape. I just decided to bite that one in the butt and replace it all. This car has been quite challenging because it has been around so long. It was raced in the late 70's and from what I have found so far, it had at least 6 owners before me. Very little is/was stock (except for the drums at the back), and nothing is documented. There have been more than a few times that I replaced something just so that I knew what was actually used. John, I had a look at your bracket a few days ago. It certainly looks like quality stuff, but I don't think it would help me much. Cary, I think that may be exactly what I was looking for, thanks! Mayolives, I read that whole thread a couple of times. Maybe I missed it, but I could not find anywhere which calipers were used on the front of that car, and the rears appeared to be ones from an sx. I did e-mail Tilton as well. I just dont always trust technical sales teams I like to double check everything myself. Thanks! Brent

Good day everyone, After many hours of searching, I havent found anything that will help me out with this. I am reviving an old 240z roadcourse racer, and in the process I upgraded to the AZC 6 piston front/4 piston rear willwood setup with the 12.2" disks. Everyone says to upgrade to the 280zx master cyl, but they seem to be really pricey. So pricey in fact that I have somewhat foolishly sold myself on getting a new triple master cylinder setup. The research I have made has led me to eye these guys http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=13&m=b . Of course with remote reservoirs to make life simple. The main question I have is "how does one choose the master cylinder size?". What size master cylinder should be used for the clutch? Of course the bigger part of that is what size should be used for the front/rear. Which pedals? The 5.5:1 or 6.2:1? I am sure there is a program or a spreadsheet out there that would get me close. I just cant seem to find one. I have looked into the calipers and the front calipers have 2x 41.1mm and 4x 28.4mm pistons, and the rear calipers have 4x 35.1mm pistons. As I don't have scales handy (and the car is in pieces) I have decided to assume a weight of 2450 and a 53/47 weight distribution (unless someone has some suggestions there). I have a proportioning valve already and I will get a balance bar adjuster. I have read a couple of convincing threads regarding using both to get the brakes tuned just right. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me. I have registered for the school in Calgary on May 2, so I really need this ready by then. Brent p.s. Does anyone have advice on bedding and tuning the brakes before I get to the track. This thing is nowhere near street legal and it would be nice to at least be close so that I am not fiddling with the brakes for the whole school.

oh, that was for 2, not 4. I only want to widen the front.

$80 shipped, way better than the $155 they wanted at motorsport-tech.

sweet, thats what I was hoping to hear

Ordered a set from Baer, but they weren't sure if the CB will fit. Did you have to have yours machined down?

omg, can you believe that Motorsport-Tech charges $45 shipping for each set of wheel spacers. Thats almost as much as they charge for the spacers themselves. And no discount for ordering more than one set at a time. 3 sets. still $45 shipping for each. /me grumbles

quick question..... http://www.motorsport-tech.com/refmanual.html says that my centre bore should be 66.1, when I measure the little lip right near the bolt face, I get 72.2. Shouldnt that mean the CB is 72.2?

First off, the need for the spacer is to fit my 15" wheels over the brake upgrade (AZC 6 piston fronts, 4 piston rear). They are my old z wheels, just that they are too tight with those massive calipers sticking out so far. Then I started doing a bunch of research on spacers and I am convinced that handling can be "tuned" using different spacers. So my plan is to track down some ARP studs that are at least 1" longer than stock. That way I can try out different spacers in different situations. Obviously if I need spacers just to clear the brakes, that 1/2" is the lowest I can go, but having some 3/4" and/or 1" to play with would be nice. I will leave the rears at thier sock offset unless someone has a good reason to add width there. Everything I know about cars tells me that having the front slightly wider than the rear will be good for handling; of course within reason. Again, the reason I don't want adapters is so that the bolts could be checked every race. I have always checked them, and always will.

do you mean Baer? They look pretty solid, I'll give em a call.

No dice there (ebay). There are adapters, but not spacers to fit the z. At least none that will ship to Canada. That was the first place I looked. As well, this is for a track-only car. So the universal ones with the giant holes and/or stacking two 1/4" ones is not an option. The reason I want spacers, not adapters is that this way the wheels can be retorqued each race. If I went with adapters, each wheel would need to be removed between each race to retorque the adapters.

Good day everyone. I was just wondering if anyone knows of a good place to get 1/2" wheel spacers (not adapters) for the s30. I e-mailed modern motorsports, but I am not getting a response there. Are they even still in business? There is no phone number on thier site that I can find. I guess I can just have some made at a machine shop, but I would prefer to buy something from within the z community if possible. And for those that are going to say "search" and nothing else, I searched wheel spacers and read most posts all the way back to the beginning. I dont want adapters, and there doesnt seem to be much out there.

Cant help you there, I dont have a lot of experince with carbs at all. I dont know how comfortable you are taking things apart, but if it was me, I would take apart one that works and one that doesnt and find out what the difference is. On a side note, I have a question for those that do have more experience with these. I am in the process of rebuilding all three of my carbs. It going quite well and I now know a lot more about how they work. I am runnning into one problem though. On all three carbs, the pump jets seem to be really seized in. I have tried carb cleaner, gas, varsol, and a swarm of other hazardous chemicals to try to get them out. I have tried pulling carefully with needle nose pliers, and I have tried pushing them from the bottom using the flat edge of a wrench. All 6 are still stuck in there and I cant figure out how to get them out. I would really like to avoid damaging them. They all seem to work, but as the rest of the carbs are all rebuilt with new parts/gaskets/etc, I would like to clean them up. Any Ideas?

Does it move easily? maybe the spring is broken. If not, Maybe its time for a good cleaning

Is the throttle stuck? I dont think that the pump itself being stuck would affect anything other than the fact that it wouldnt do its job, I could be wrong.

Well that strut bar is welded in, and it has been raced before. I would have to check, but I am pretty sure that there is some specific rule about using a strut bar for the harness.

Thanks John, thats a fantastic read. Here is what I have come up with. On both sides of the car, run a piece of tube down from the rear stays to the main hoop (somewhat parallel to the side of the car). and then between those two tubes, run a tube the width of the car. That should allow the belt angle to not be too steep or far away. If anyone thinks that is a terrible idea or has a better one, let me know.

I dont know about the legality of using them on the streets, but you may find another racer that is interested in using them for a passenger seat for the purposes of track tours and on-track instruction. In these cases current certified belts are not required as it is not an all out racing situation.

Hello everyone, Well, things are going well in reviving my track beast. There is one problem, I hate where the seat is. I would like to move the seat back about 3", but the bar that the belts are attached to is in the way. I will cut it out some time this week, I would just like to know what the experienced HybridZ crowd would suggest. The two options I have been toying with are... 1- replace the current straight bar with a curved one that allows the seat to move further back. 2- add in a bar to the rear hoops (that go back into the hatch) that goes the entire width of the car. Option 2 is attractive because it would allow for passenger side belts to be installed. As I am new to racing, it might be handy to have a passenger seat for instructors, etc. The problem with option 2 is to get the bar to sit low enough (so that the belts are near 90 deg to my shoulders) it needs to be so far back that the belts would be super long. I dont know if there are concerns if the belts have an angle much more than 90 deg and the rules are kinda vague. I am pretty sure that using the strut tower bar is not an option. Let me know what you guys think. More images available at http://www.pictures.meech.ca/v/sparkys_240Z/ let me know if a different viewing angle would help.

Found the drain plug I never knew that aisle of Canadian Tire existed. Can you believe Erickson actually referred me to Arizona Z Car just for that plug, hehe. Its going good so far. It runs; thats a bonus. Got one of the carbs on my kitchen table right now waiting for a rebuild. Just need to order some new chokes. Started taking some body parts off. There is some rust, but this is just a track car and its nothing that can't be covered with fibreglass Going to have to break out the grinder and make some minor mods to the roll cage so I can move the seat back a few inches. I was just surveying what needs to be done earlier today. I should have no troubles having the car ready for the school in May. Most of what I need to do is get the safety stuff. Need suit, helmet, hans, belts, fire ex, etc. I was thinking of heading out to Mopac tomorrow to start shopping.