Ferd/289

I wonder if Sir Daniel made that speaker enclosure. It looks like fiberglass. Maybe he would give some infomation on how he did it Also the covering for the rear hatch looks great. Again wonder if he would mention how the material is attached. Looks like faux suade glued on 1/8th plywood?? I have been watching 'Ultimate Rides' on TV to get a handle on custom fiberglass forming for speaker enclosures. Ferd

thanks I sent you a private message with my address.

Thanks gentlemen, thanks I will call tomorrow to see if he has the 'lood latch receiver' that mounts on the firewall. I can use it with or without the t-handle cable that attaches to it. I will take you up on the shipping help if he has the part. Thanks Ferd

I need the hood latch receiver that bolts onto the firewall. Anyone know a junk yard in the dallas area that has old 240-280Z's. Or if you have this part I will buy from you. Ferd

What I have found is that as long as there is paint on the car enough so that can lightly compound without revealing undercoat, you can almost always renew to great extent. First paint 'scrub' (removes small scratches and oxidation), then polish then seal with wax or urethane covering then you can really bring out the shine. I use the maguire 'deep crystal' multi (3) step process. First 'body scrub', then 'polish', then 'wax' ie the last step you can use their carnuba wax. If the body scrub dosn't satisfy, take 'white' compound by dupont follow their directions and then follow with Meguiars product. If you have a random orbit waxer/polisher (change pads often) use it as it will save time and do a better job. Once your paint is satifactory, you can use a product called 'Finish 2001" which is a urethane enriched wax like covering. I have been using for years and it really lasts ( 1 year ) and protects paint. I apply by hand then remove with RO polisher. Change terry cloth pads often. Hope this helps. Autoparts stores have these products. Finish 2001 is a distributed by Turtle wax. BTW, plain liquid turtlewax once your paint is clear really works amazingly well also. Ferd

the key issue with z cars IMO is rust. No rust or little rust, buy what the hey! Ferd

Nice set up and I like your rail motor mounts. Your 100 amp alternator is not putting out 100 amps probably until your engine is revving at a higher level2000=3000 rpm's. This is why your engine slows. You can probably find out the rpm's versus amp output from the manufacturer and maybe substitute a different pulley. Also, if your battery is depleted your alternator will 'turn harder' until battery is charged. So you might make sure your battery is fully charged. Quick question...is your timing marker a small cast in nub on the timing chain cover or is it a bolted on metal pointer on the passenger side of the engine? I am curious since my '66 289 has a cast-in nub. Ferd

can you tell me what are you thinning the materials with?

I mounted my ignition box inside the car. Its on the upper front of the passenger side of the car. Its high enough so passenger's feet do not hit it and its easy to change the rev limiter chips from inside the car. It fits nicely and I dont have to worry about the heat of the engine, water from rain etc.. Ferd

That rustoleum thread in the mopar site reads like a soap opera. I could not stop reading it. I will try it on some aluminum. Ferd

I am wondering if anyone has used '3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material' for use on paint or bare aluminum surfaces. It is sold as a marine product I presume for fiberglass. I bought it for my boat but did not use. I am wondering if I can use this type of compound material as a step to enhance 1 stage Acrylic paint finish after wet sanding, and/or bare aluminum sheet finish before polishing. The bottle says its for use to remove P600-P800 DA or P1000-P1200 sand scratches wih a wool compounding pad at 2500-1500 rpm. 3M says its for a "fast cut, swirl free, high gloss finish" Ferd

sounds interesting. Looks like an epoxy high fill? Ferd

I am coming into this post a little late. I did a search to get come background on this post. Am I right in assuming that 'rolling paint' means that you are applying rustoleum with a roller?? What post can I look at to see whole story? Looks like a great job. Ferd

FYI Hot Rod mag is starting with the april edition a 10 month series of articles on body work and restoration. I get this 'rag' and looks like it might be worth while for those who need to learn.

I was thinking of adding A/C to my '77Z-1966 SBF. Car has no A/C components as yet, and interior is totally stripped. Does it make sense to 'salvage yard out' a full A/C system from lets say a late model mustang? I guess I would need a condensor, evaporator, lines, expansion valve, dryer, etc. Any ideas on brackets for SBF block. Vents?? I would to install 134R type. Maybe there are kits for custom cars, any recommendations. Ferd

you probably know this... but sounds like you can make/use a rotisserie ( sp) to hold you car off the ground and upsidedown. You can do a search to get various plans. Since you are a welder this would be easy and save time as you weld under your Z. Ferd

There is a nice tech/installation writeup on Blue Oval's web site on hydraulic throwout bearing which he installed on his Z. Ferd

Thanks for the information gents

Chevy Vega would be a good match for an L28. A buddy of mine raced a SBC 350 in the Vega and did well at the track. Ferd

Lets remember: - Chip is great and learned a lot from his dad who was a hot rod builder - Boyd C. (yes is an ****ole ) BUT! he did step up the art form for his time to a much higher level ,,Nes Pas. I think he needs a better Public Relations Manager. Ferd

beautiful job..thanks for sharing the pics. Gives me inspiration to do my 'chores' Ferd

nevermind--I can see the Pics'

For some reason I am not 'authorized' see the pics. Do you know what I need to do?? Ferd

great choice in color. I wanted that to use that same color when I painted mine, but went with Ferrari yellow instead. Congrats on a dyn-o-mite job. Have you considered some pin striping? Ferd

I like it!, got a picture? I would like to see the removable vise, legs etc. Ferd