Ferd/289

thank you much

I did a cursory search..but..can someone point me to a quick reference for which chemicals ( i.e. Zylene, acetone, mineral spirits, etc.) are to be used for thinning and brush/sprayer cleaning the various types of paints incl: acrylic laquer acrylic enamel acrylic latex enamel oil based laquer urethane alkyd enamels

nice job in describing how a paint booth is done correctly. Ferd

I was mixing some 'junk' paint ie Acrylic Enamel, that had gotton a little dry'ish. I noticed that the list of ingredients included Xylene and Acetone. So I added both a little Xylene and Acetone. I seemed to work good to refresh the paint. I did a search and did not find an answer and would like to know a little more about these chemicals. Ferd

is this water based so it has no isocyanates? that is its not poisonous?. If so I would use. On their internet they wore a 'neoshe' sp? mask. What spray equipment did you folks use? size of nozel etc. hvlp?? I wonder what RacerX, thinks of this product. It looks too good to be true. here is their website. 'http://www.duplicolor.com/training/autospray_training.html' Ferd

thats as good as I have ever seen,,,damm!

last year someone showed me a book that shows you how to analyse your dreams.

great info thanks

can you use regular 'naked' steel bolts on an aluminum piece like a fuel rail? I thought steel galvanically acts with aluminum so I have always avoided using plain steel on aluminum. But now I am thinking that fasteners that have a coating of cadmium or what to me looks like 'black paint' on automotive type fasteners are ok to use on AL. can someone list the 'basic compatibilities'

you really are the 'hybrid master' LOL

either way you have done so much for the folks on this website..

thanx, got it. Ferd

love the progress, and getting a better understanding of how a lathe is used. Thanks for the pics, keep 'em coming Ferd

gorgeous! nice job good luck

if it runs good and body is strait and rust free chassis, no leaks etc. its hard to get one at a lower price. If I were you, best bet would be to have a Hybridz member in the area check it out for you. Buy him lunch for some advice. You said you were 'not mechanical'. You will have to learn or it will cost plenty just cause its 30+ years old. The good news is that it is probably one of the easiest cars to work on and lots of folks do, so you can get help. Hope this helps Ferd

My compressor's unloader tube which is 18 inches long needs to be replaced. The guy at Campbell Hausfield says 18 inches costs $23 and its made of teflon. Anyone know what can I use instead, or get cheaper? The PSI requirement is 125 and the dimensions of the plastic tubing is 5mm od and 3 id. Lesson learned, don't buy HF compressor auto drain, or dont throw out old unloader tubing? Ferd

TonyD you are correct. when I removed the drain valve it was kind of stuffed with crap. Soon to clog. I, along with you, will not recommend this product. Ferd

got the leaks fixed. Some said that hose was poor quality and that was one problem. A hose blew from pressure valve to tank on initial pump up. When compressor not running no air comes out of it (surprise to me) so I did not realize it blew. Seems to work now. Nice having an automatic drain. Any more problems with it, I uninstall and install a 'convenient' manual drain. Lots of fun from HF for $7 on an icey day in Dallas. Ferd

good info thanks..I will be using it soon. Ferd

what did you use to make a float-actuated condensate drain ? At this point I think I will take your advice and plumb a easy to get to manual drain. I dont get much concentrate but I would like to be able to drain the little I get easily. Ferd

I am in the dallas area. Where are you located? Ferd

I bought a HF Automatic Compressor Drain Kit yesterday and installed it. My compressor will not build up to 125 psi. It continues to run up to about 80psi. When I turn it off. I have no leak except for a newly discovered small leak at the hardline to tank threaded connection. I wonder if that leak can cause a 'early open' to the newly installed drain valve? I bubbletested all other connections and they do not leak while compressor is stopped at 80psi. Does the 'pressure switch unloader valve' work so that if there was some kind of leak it would open the drain valve, or let air out of the pressure valve?? My plan now is to fix the 'hardline to tank' leak and see if I fixed the problem. But I am curious as to how the 'pressure switch unloader valve' works Ferd

I usually perform a 'bench bleed' for the MC. Remove the MC and place in vice. Then use the MC rod itself to pump fluid through. THis way you test the MC for leaks and can see clearly what is happening. Use 3/8 clear tubing on the rest of the bleeders onece you re-install the MC with at leat an inch or two on the bottom of the vessel so air does not get sucked back in. Hope this helps Ferd

wonderful work. I have never seen oval tubing. It looks awesome. Ferd

wow. As an owner of a n/a z32, I applaud your swap. Hope more of these take place. Your car should rock