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HybridZ

Andrew Bayley

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Everything posted by Andrew Bayley

  1. Sorry I haven't replied earlier. I've been too busy installing; Air Conditioning, 6 way adjustable power (heated) seats, all the OEM smog equipment (in case I ever decide to move to Cali.), and power windows. I figure when I get done with all this, you might not be so far behind. Well, at least at half track. Still got a bit if wiring work to do before I fire her over. I was only able to find four spark plug wires, but that shouldn't be a problem until I encounter someone with a "real" motor. I can't promise this weekend, but I will have it together real soon. Also, to make things more "fair" by running on just the motor. I think I was able to run a 15.5 @ 85 mph out of her a while back. You got enough to back that up!?!? Mark my words, by the end of the summer, the smack-ith will be lay-ith. And all those in the land of HydridZ will have video proof of who the "real" champion is (...let's just hope Ron doesn't drop by for a visit). Isn't it time for you to go? I think I hear your little girlie calling you in for dinner! ..oh wait, that's mine. Sorry, my bad.
  2. Drop me a line at: agbayley@hotmail.com with your results from Wednesday night. I'll add your times to the Unofficial HybridZ Quarter Mile Times Page. -Andy
  3. It looks a little better (a little meaning a million, no... a BILLION!!!) I love the color. More of an OEM depth to it. Are you trying to go for more of a "sleeper" look? Now all you need to do is slap a 10-71 Mooney up top and re-gain the title. -Andy
  4. Awww sheeeaht, I'd better get's myself TWO bottles. No wait, two BIG bottles!
  5. Jeesh you're quick! Headers are the S&S units that MSA sells in their catalog. 1 and 3/4 inch primary's with 3 inch collectors. Yup, I got my Dad into the XR scene a few back. He had a three month period after selling his old Ranger before the New F-250SD arrived. In the lee way, he was driving around my '87 XR4Ti. 17 psi boost, T-bird intercooler, T-bird Vane Meter, three inch exhaust, yadda, yadda, yadda... all the typical stuff. Anyway, once he got the truck, he missed driving the old Merk. I found a nice '89 for him that needed some body and motor work. Picked it up for a song, painted the front half, through on a front mount IC, three inch exhaust, and all the other goodies. It's probably a high 14 second car. There is more in her, but I don't feel like fooling around with my Dad's car every day. Besides, I need to keep him under control and make sure he doesn't get too out of hand. After all, he is turning 55 this summer! -Andy
  6. I had a few minutes this weekend to mock up the passenger side header and take some pictures of the starter clearances. I don't remember exactly which starter I'm using (I've had it for about five years now), but it's about the largest starter for a SBC that one could possibly find. In case the photo's don't automatically load... Online Photo Directory E-mail me directly for original, larger, copies of pictures. -Andy
  7. A few of my F-body friends have had the butts handed to them by this exact guy before. Rumor has it, he's capable of mid/low 10's on a good set of slicks. He dials in 10.98 at the track just to keep the officials happy. There are a few other LS1 tt's running deep into the 11's as well around here. This is the perfect example of the Detroit street racing scene. F bodies are (still) everywhere, and there are only two kind: Bone Stock, or modded full tilt! With guys like this running around, it's no wonder the Rice scene has been so slow to catch on around here. The only Japanese racers out there only have two wheels.
  8. First off, Dave’s headers look a lot lower than mine. Not sure if it's the angle, or what. Maybe it's because I have an extra deep tranny pan that helps hide the fact that the headers hang so low. Also (John), my exhaust runs along the bottom of the floor next to the frame rails. It looked like S&S setup the headers for the exhaust to be routed inside the trans tunnel. If I had: a) More patience A very skilled exhaust bender c) A smaller transmission (not a 700R4 like I've got) I could have routed the exhaust in the tunnel. since I didn't have any of the above three items, I needed to run the exhaust down about two inches from where the collector dumped. However, even if I did decide to run the tubes inside the tunnel, I still would have needed to bang out the floor a little to make room for the exhaust to bend into the trans tunnel. Hope this helps. -Andy
  9. I'm always surprised at how little of a difference there is on the highway with the juice. Don't get me wrong, out of the hole is awsome, but it just doesn't feel all the great after I hit about 60 mph. You can notice a differnce on the highway by switching the NAAAAWS off, but it just doesn't feel like the tire melting power that you get down low. Maybe I just need to get a second stage, for 250hp total. Did you have to replace jets in each of the fogger nozzels? I always though the fogger kits used one jet in the distribution block. I can see where replacing every nozzel would be a Royal PITA. Bet you're glad you only have six of them. -Andy
  10. I used to have my regulator setup in the same location on the firewall. Track officials (1/4 mile) told me that I had to move the regulator in front of the flexplate and run all fuel lines that pass the flex plate, to the outside of the frame. Just a little heads up if any of you guys are going to make more than one or two trips to the track. -Andy
  11. It took you one entire minute before you posted that Scottie. Did you not have you Wheaties this morning?
  12. If you can put it down, he'll be playing catch up for the second half of the race. Also, don't be intimidated by the sight of "big cubes". I know of MANY 502's pushing, at most... on a good day, 400 hp (flywheel) I've seen many big blocks get their ass's handed to them by Furd 302's and Turbo V-6 Buicks. Of course, I've also seen many +1000 hp Big Blocks clean house as well. Be careful, and safe. I don't want to turn on "Cops - Bay Area" and see a nice Hybrid Z being chased down by the police, got it? -Andy
  13. Tim, This sounds awfully familiar to the smog laws that they used to enforce in Detroit. The original omitted smog checks for vehicles 10 years or older. Legislation wanted to up to the age to 30 years. After extensive research, a conclusion was drawn that the lower income families would be hit hardest by this law. The emphasis was then placed onto the OEM's to manufacture a vehicle that would actually burn clean for more than two years. Thus, all emission testing in the local Detroit area was abolished. It really erck's me that the car buying public is being made responsible for Automakers lousy engineering decisions in the field of vehicle emissions. California really needs to look at the examples other states have set, by dropping most (if not all) emission testing, and step into the 21st century. Imagine if we all had to get our computers tested every year for operating systems crashes. If we failed the "crash test" which we all obviously would) it would be our responsibility to individually fix the problem? Come on now, get real. I know this is a cliche, but write your local congress-person and representative. Tell them you want to see more emission liability fall on the manufacturer and not on the public. Hey, it worked in Michigan! -Andy
  14. Nobody seems to have a good explanation on how to do vent lines. I agree, it sounds dangerous, but I know it needs to be done. Picture a half gallon milk jug filled with water. Now turn that upside down (preferably over the sink). Watch the water come pouring out. Also watch the jug crush itself inwards from all the excess vacuum built upside from the lack of an air vent. I’ve seen a lot of people run into fuel pressure problems from lack of an adequate vent line. Car runs great for about ten minutes. But then, all of a sudden, the fuel PSI drops off. I guess the vacuum inside becomes greater than the pressure that the pump can provide. It seems the popular fix a lot of people do is drill small vent holes in the gas cap. Since I’m running a fuel cell with the gas door located in the hatch… this is not an option. I’m going to run a four foot long rubber hose to the old gas door location. There are check valves out there to prevent gas pouring out during a rollover. I want to run one, but am concerned about blowing off pressure build up in the tank on hot summer days. I guess I’d rather have tank pressure on a hot day, than a gas stove underneath me after a roll over. -Andy
  15. Mike, Not sure why you're not able to get more than 6psi to the carb. If it was me, I’d scrap the return line and simply run a fresh air vent to the fuel tank. The regulator should be plenty strong enough to hold as low as 3 psi from a 15 psi source. I’ve run my Holley blue at 7 psi for about two years now with a Holley regulator and have never had any problems without a return line. The only reason I could see running a return line, is if you had a variable pressure fuel system (i.e. Fuel injection). Even then, there are many OEM systems that do not use a return line. As for the carb not idling below 1200 rpm, that’s weird. Maybe it’s because you have the ”Factory deleted idle” Sorry, couldn’t resist it. Seriously though, when I first bought my 650 double pumper, the floats would stick open and start pouring gas down the boosters. These things absolutely need to be checked from the factory. After I unstuck the sticking secondary float, I still had some driveability problems. Out of the box, the main float was set almost to the max while the secondary float was cranked all the way to the bottom. It took me a while to figure out why the car would fall on it’s face once I opened her up. Also, check your idle circuits carefully. I wouldn’t even worry about the secondary idle circuits at first. Crank those babies all the way in and start with adjusting your primary circuits first. Once you got a decent idle, then try to adjust the secondary idle screws. Many motors work just fine on primary idle circuits. I was going to drill my carb out for four corner idle, but I didn’t have the room (new casting) so I still only have primary idle circuits with a 500+ lift cam. No problems over here. Once you get the Holley dialed in, you will never go back to “Brand – X”. First time I tore my 650 dp apart I said: “That’s it? It’s a fricking metered gas leak!” Good Luck -Andy
  16. John, I think what Jim is suggesting, is to leave the drum hub on, then use a long skinny flat head screwdriver to adjust the preload through the small hole in the brake drum. This is the method I've been using for a while now. I used to take a pair of vice grips and pull on the E-brake lever on the strut assembly, but I found out that I could do much finer adjustments by using the screwdriver method. -Andy
  17. John, Thanks for the kind words. This big smokey burnout of mine was done in the water box with the help of a line lock. The "two stage" burnout photos were done on dry pavement. Even with my 3000 RPM stall converter, some skill (if you can call it that) is required to light up the rears. I need to "stab" the throttle in order to break the wheels loose... even with the line lock on. If I gradually lay into the gas, the motor will push the (locked) front wheels like skis on a sled. If I had the OEM converter in my transmission still, I doubt that I would be able to break the tires loose on dry pavement at all. The stock converter in my '87 (Z28 Camaro) 700R4 was junk! Stall speed was something pathetic like 1400 RPM. I too, would plow the front wheels around unless I was hard into the brakes. In a heavier Camaro, this problem isn't as pronounced as it is in a lighter Z. Especially since our V8's typically have more torque than what a stock Camaro ever came with. Swapping to a high stall converter was the best investment I ever made. With the exception of my Nitrous kit, the 3000 RPM converter was the quickest modification I made to the car. I dropped over half a second off my 1/4 mile ET. Now for the bad news, lock up converters for 700R4/2004R's are not cheap. Expect to spend around $500, maybe more. The non-lockups are "slightly" less expensive, but not worth it IMHO. Spend the extra amount and get a lock up. Also, when looking for a suitable stall speed, go with slightly more than what you think you'll need. A few reasons for this. First, the light Z will stall less than what the manufacturer claims. My advertised 3000 RPM stall is actually between 2800 and 2900 in the Z. Next reason, you will more than likely want to eventually go faster. A torque converter is not something you want to swap out more than once. Finally, people underestimate how much “stall” they will be happy with. Remember, just because the converter is rated at, say 3000 RPM, this does not mean it won’t do anything until it reaches this stall speed. The stall speed is simply the maximum RPM that the converter will slip at. If one end of the converter is solidly attached to something, a mating engine would only be able to reach 3000 RPM at WOT (until the impeller vanes burn out, then all hell breaks loose). Taking off from stop lights will still be like an OEM converter, only it will fell “slightly” looser. This is the best part. With just a touch of gas, the motor flashes up to about 2100 RPM and I’m gone. I don’t know how many people thought I was racing them while I was just “puts-ing” away from a light. They would eventually learn. Get a high stall, you will not regret it! -Andy
  18. Every bit as easy as adjusting your throttle cable. E-mail me if you need to know the specifics: abayley@lear.com -Andy
  19. Go to Amazon and do a search for: Title: Holley Carburetor Handbook 4150 & 4160 Selection, Tuning and Repair Author: Mike Urich By HPBooks I used to work with a bunch of people that actually had Mike Ulrich as their boss back in the 80's. This guys I worked with knew their stuff, and they claimed they learned it all from Mike. The book is about 80 pages long. Lots of pretty pictures to look at and not overly techincal. I'm looking at my copy right now, let me know if need any more info. -Andy
  20. John, I wouldn't spend too much time looking at the lockup converter. If the converter was actually staying locked up, the engine would stall every time you came to a stop (much like leaving a manual transmission in gear and coming to a stop). From my experiences with 700R4's, it's sounds like a combination of a stock converter and high line pressure. A lot of shops will adjust the line pressure higher than it needs to be, simply to give the driver a "shift kit" type of feel. To see if you have this problem, simply disconnect the TV cable from the carb, start the car up, put car in gear and see if she still surges ahead with as much force as before. Do not drive the car around like this!!! The TV cable is what adjusts the hydraulic fluid pressure for all the bands inside the transmission. With the TV cable disconnected, the minimal amount of pressure will be applied to the bands. If the car is driven with this minimal amount of pressure, the bands and clutches will most definitely burn up. The proper TV cable adjustment should be a zero tension while the motor is at idle. As soon as the throttle is increased, so should the TV cable. At WOT, the TV cable should be at maximum pressure (fully opened). Every like’s to pretend that there is some great voodoo mystery with adjusting these transmissions. It's actually quite simple. Keep us informed. -Andy
  21. Mike, I didn't put the spacers in for two basic reasons. One, the driveline angle was much closer without the spacers. Two, I never liked the way the car handled with the spacers. To me, the Z would have a "floating nose" (ala mid 70's-ish Cadillac) feel with the frame spacers. Even with the front of the car lowered, the nose always felt like it was pointing skywards whenever I'd get into the gas. It's noticeably less without the spacers. -Andy
  22. Nope. My JTR shown above (maybe ) has the S&S full length headers. These are the same headers that MSA sells in their catalog. In fact, I ordered the headers through MSA and they came directly from S&S. Nothing like paying the middle man. As for ground clearance, yeah it's low. However, my transmission pan is much lower and is more centered between the front and rear wheels. Since the header comes down almost next to the front wheel, it's never going to bottom out on anything (unless you high-side something). Also, I do not have the "frame spacers" that JTR recommends between the steering rack and frame rails. If you can't see my pictures above, go here and scroll to the bottom: http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/NewMark3pics.html -Andy
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