waynekarnes

go to your local air cooled vw shop, get fender welting. trim to fit. it's good stuff. will work great. or call Dave in campbell ca. 861 Camden Avenue, Campbell, California 95008 408-378-7033 408-378-7043 (fax) 800-966-7460 (Outside California) email: info@peninsulaautomotive.com Open 8:30am to 5:30pm Monday through Friday, and 9:00am to 3:00pm (PST). Saturday. Call today and discover for yourself why PENINSULA AUTOMOTIVE is the best source for all your Volkswagen needs. give my friend's shop a plug.

as was suggested. primer is not water proof or water resistant. any moisture will seep through, this includes dew or sweat on a tarp. moisture under the car evaporates upward, collects on the tarp, migrates around the tarp. in the evening, cool air causes it to condense, sweats on the car. you need to use a sealer of some sort. go to local automotive paint store ( check yellow pages or stop by body shop and ask where the shop gets paint from and why you want to know ), they have high quality primers and sealers in rattle cans. be advised that most sealers are only for locking in the vapors and chemicals from the previous paint job, to stop them from mixing in with your new paint job. in general, they are not meant to keep water off the metal. again, head to automotive paint store, not home depot or kragen. if none in town, call one ask your questions. most of the guys are car people and are usually willing to dish out advise even if you don't shop there.

the vent on the c pillar is for the air in the car to exhaust. supposedly GM came up with this system to exchange the air in the car. enters in the cowl area and exits through vents. on the firebirds and camaros of the 60's and 70's you will find it on the B pillar. open the door look at the post that the latch slips over when the door is closed. above that post, is a black grille. the air exhausts out that vent ( so i have read ). nissan used a similar system. fresh air in at the front of the car, sort like the old 55-57 chevys. on the 69 through 71 (?) the designers won over the engineers and the interior air exited out the vents on the lift gate. due to air flow and pressure differences, the exhaust gases from the engine would sometimes enter those vents and enter the passenger cabin. to eliminate this problem, nissan engineers better sealed the tail lights, lift gate, bumper bolts, side marker lights, where body seams came together and you guessed it, moved the vents to the c pillars. you can eliminate those vents. car will feel a bit stuffy, smell a bit more, and take longer for defroster to clear the windshield, but no real harm will come from it. oh that's as long as you have the rear sealed to keep exhaust gas out. by not pressurizing the cabin ( as little as it may ) there is a possibilty of creating a situation where upon it is easier for exhaust gases to to enter the cabin from the rear of the z. i know when window is down, i get a hell of a lot more ( my eyes are burning ) exhaust in the cabin than when windows are up. could be that the fresh air intake pressurizes the cabin more than i thought. of course Poo, i might be wrong. p.s. how'd your bro's movie do ??? wayne

yeah, the same trees that drop leaves where you are, drop leaves here in san jose ca. infact, for the past 19 years, i get to enjoy most of the neighbor's leaves. they blow up my driveway and if i'm lucky enough to have my garage door open ... you can guess the rest. if you'd like further proof, i can send some of em to you. fresh california fall leaves. hmm, that sounds like an advertisement. maybe we can start a business, sell em on ebay, along side that potato chip that looked like vigin mary LOL

http://www.magiccolors.net/

wow, i type 2 words a minute. you posted how buyer vanished while i was typing my last reply. glad you didn't get ripped off ! you are so right. this group is like a bunch of old and trusted friends. sometimes it reminds me of when i was able to call my favorite uncle ( sorry to say he passed away, he was pulling weeds. didn't know it was on under his nails, cat poop got into a mosquito bite he scratched, month later, after his leg was amputated, he died a painful death. not to bring any one down, cat scat is nasty, wash your hands ). anyway back to happy stuff, this group is like when i'd call my uncle, ask for car advise. not only get mechanical advise, but sound economic and social advise as well. everyone, give yourself a pat on the back ! wayne

asked my friend at work how the buyer paid for the lincoln ( not that it matters, but it wasn't his 4 door vert, rather a 67 mark hard top ). the guy used pay pal and paid the fees, paid with a credit card. my friend went to pay pal transferred the funds to his checking account. he has two at his bank. if the buyer wants to pay with a personal check and is willing to wait for the check to clear, find out from your bank manager, not a clerk, how many days to verify the check is real and the money is real. a friend of friend took a bank check ( cashier's check, depending on what part of the usa you are in ) as payment on a musical instrument. 15 days after he had already deposited and spent the money, bank came after him, said was fake check, that he owed them the money. his argument was, he trusted them to verify the check was valid. in turn they said that the bank it was drawn on honored the check, and then found out it was either from stolen blanks or a forgery. that bank wanted the money back, so his bank would get it from him. raw deal, but those with money make the rules. go to your bank and see what the fees are for a wire transfer. the fees are pretty much universal. for your peace of mind, might be worth eating the fees yourself, deduct em from the price of the car. explain to your banker, with all the identity theft going on you are afraid to give out your acc # to a stranger and want to know if there is a way to do this. the bank may have an account they use just for this purpose. leg work for sure, but should make it easier to sleep. i would feel alright about a personal check, if buyer would be willing to wait the amount of time the bank manager says would be appropriate and prudent. i've sold maybe 3 to 4 grand of stuff on ebay, for myself and friends. i have never been ripped off selling ( twice buying, one guy is in jail electronic fraud division of the fbi , the other was for a buck 50, seller suckered a bunch of us for gensing knifes ). most people paid with pay pal. others cashier or personal checks. all checks waited 20 days for me to ship. again, if buyer is willing to wait the 20 or so days the bank manager says is the safe period, take the personal check. but, i see no reason for buyer not to do an electronic transfer from his bank to you. again check with your bank manager for more info on this, don't take buyer's word for this info. and you want to put, as is, where is on the bill of sale/contract. if he doesn't want to bother with a fax machine, send it to him in a prestamped self addressed envelope. you want that bill of sale with his name and signature. on both ends, the state is going to want a bill of sale of some sort, stating purchase price, date of sale, ect. you need it for your own protection. 99% of the time, buyer is just like you, wants a clean honest deal. but even then things can go wrong. wife gets rattled, doesn't like the car, he wants money back to save his face with the wife. he makes up some crap about something being wrong. takes you to small claims. with a bill of sale/contract all that nonsense goes out the window. stick by your guns on that bill of sale. no bill of sale, no sell ! i have owned and sold over 40 cars since 1973. all of em had a bill of sale. i was threated by an attorney that was upset that i sold his 18 yr old son and his wife a 65 GTO. was too fast for the kid. free attorney advice at local jr college. showed him bill of sale, parties over 18, can enter into legal binding contract. besides, in state of california, bill of sale or no bill of sale, as long as not a blatent rip off, it is buyer beware. called the father/attorney back, told him that my personal attorney has adviced me to tell father/attorney to blow it out his backside ( actually the attorney at jr college did indeed say just that, only he was a bit more colorful) . that is the only one i ever had trouble with. kid stopped by my house weeks later, said i had completely shut his dad down, 1st time ever that his dad hadn't gotten his way just by threatening people. kid was stoked, loved the car ( 65 gto, 3 2's, 4 speed, 67k miles on it. it was beautiful. i paid $250 for it in 76, sold it for $550. be a 20 grand car now ). sorry off topic, i am blathering. wayne

hmm, typed two replies, neither posted. looks good so far. go to local western union, take id. tell em you want to have money transferred from buyer to you. set up an account. there may be fees on both ends. buyer transfers funds from western union on his end to the one on your end. now, he can transfer from his bank to your bank. he needs your bank account number. this is why you may want to have a new account, that way in the future the buyer will not have your account number. if the transport company will act as escrow company that would be the best. a guy i work with sold a car to a man in norway. if i can remember, and i can catch him ( different shifts ), i will ask him how he did that. i think there are suggestions on how to do a safe sale in hemmings motor news magazine. check newstands, book stores, library. http://www.hemmings.com i think that we have covered most points. be as honest with description as possible, hope buyer is as well. i wouldn't accept a cashiers check or money order, unless buyer is willing to wait for either to clear. usually 20 days. i would accept a wire transfer from his bank to yours. i would accept western union. good luck, wayne

an electronic signature will hold up in a court of law. you can email a copy and ask for a signature. you can go to kinkos or some other shop, fax a copy, have him sign and fax back. if you get a written confirmation from him, filling in all the blanks that he agrees to the terms, as well as an email and a verbal over the phone, this will also hold up in court. he can't say that he wasn't aware, or that you promised to repair or warrantied the car. in california, as far as a private individual selling a car, it's buyer beware. he has the choice of paying a competent mechanic to check the car out. if he chooses not to do this, it is on the buyer's head. the only thing that is expected of you is to be honest with your description. if you were deceptive an anyway, then a court might force you to repair or refund. otherwise, the condition of the vehicle is up to the buyer to verify. i'd fax it to him, get a signature. get him to fax it back. use an escrow company, or as was suggested, have him wire transfer the money to a new account and close it as soon as the money arrives. can't retract it, can't mess with your account. most banks will wire transfer funds, as well as western union and i think greyhound. i also know that some transportation companies will make the payment when they pick up the car. years back i sold a 57 nomad to buyer in new york ( i am in calif ). transport company acted as escrow company. when they arrived to pick up the nomad, they paid me cash ( 100 dollar bills ) , i signed the pink. everyone was happy. that was over 18 years ago, and we have been emailing every couple weeks since then. my 82 cents worth of thought, wayne

try sharing a burrito with him at el torritos !! spit a bean out your nose, laughing !

transport one from a dry state. new mexico, arizona, california, ect. better chance of getting a 90% rust free z car, in driving condition. that should be within you 5 grand budget. i have heard there are decent z cars in FLA as well. again, with a 5 grand budget, you can rent a car, drive down, check out the z, rent a truck and dolly, tow it home. that is the route i would go. i have been told that the best way to get an older car of any type in a snow state is to buy a project car that has been dead in someone's garage for the past 20 years. happy hunting !

western union, probably your bank or credit union, for a fee will act as an escrow company. cashier checks can be faked, as well as money orders. money can sit at escrow company until checks clear, up to 15 days. friend sold a lap top, b of america c check. turned out to be fake. she didn't get ripped off as i told her to wait 10 days before shipping. she went to bank america. told them she wanted to verfy check was real. took them 5 days to verify, they discovered it was a very good forgery. meantime seller was sending threatening emails, suggesting that she had ripped him off, he was going to report her to ebay and pay pal, nothing to do with pay pal, but as is part of ebay, they take reports. threatened to call the local police dept. he was faking of course. but a good tactic to make one think that the buyer is legit. as far as selling ... you provide bill of sale ... I _____________________ 2315 Get a Z Ave, Fremont Ca. 92315 , have sold one_______________________________________ ( 1972 datsun 240z ) calif lic number _____________________ VIN _____________________ to _____________________ ( put sellers address here ), for the sum of ___________. Vehicle is sold as is, where is, no warranty or guarantees expressed nor provided by seller. Seller, not being a mechanic nor a professional auto restorer, has to the best of his abilities, given an honest description of the vehicle. Any existing or future problems not included in the discription provided by seller in advertisement, on the phone or emails, are assumed to be unknown at time of sell. Buyer agrees to accept vehicle in existing described condition. Buyer to pay for all shipping, delivery costs. All registration, owner ship paper work and vehicle will be turned over to buyer once funds have cleared. Buyer to pay all registration fees any other related cost. Seller requires an upfront non refundable $200 cash fee to cover costs of advertisements and other related fees, should buyer not follow through with transaction. Both Seller and and Buyer agree to use ________ as escrow agent, fees to be paid by ____________________. Upon compeletion of transaction, the $200 will be returned or deducted from the agreed upon sales price, Seller's option. Seller's Signature _______________________ Date __________ Buyer's Signature _______________________ Date __________ that's a general idea of what you might want to use. modify it anyway you wish, completely ignore it, what ever you see fit. good luck with your sell.

now when ever i see one of those in cupertino, i feel an urge

1990 RX-7 with LT1/T56 V8 conversion - $3500 (mountain view) Reply to: anon-102207736@craigslist.org Date: 2005-10-05, 8:55PM PDT I'm getting married soon, so with much sadness I must sell my project car because I no longer have time to work on it. -Very clean White 1990 RX-7 GXL with 130K -5.7 Liter aluminum head/iron block LT1 and T56 6-speed transmission from a 1994 Firebird with 78K (OBDI). -275hp/330tq, drivetrain cost $2500 alone. -Granny's V8/LT1 swap kit -brand new all brass Modine radiator (for a Monte Carlo) with lifetime warranty, plumbing fittings, and Fiero electric fan -S4 TII LSD (clutch type) installed with pinion snubber -Four piston front brakes, two piston rear brakes -Manual steering rack (also have power steering rack) -Earl's billet field filter and new fuel lines -Cold air intake and K&N filter -All emissions equipment intact, intended to pass CA smog -Tires still have 85% tread -Full array of factory service manuals and Haynes, etc. for both cars -Engine and tranny are mounted, wiring 90% done. Just need to finish plumbing cooling system, clutch master cylinder, and add a Corvette C4 aluminum driveshaft. The picture of the engine bay was taken right after the engine was mounted. VIN # JM1FC3315L0801339 Carfax report upon request RX7, S5, S4, TII, Rotary, FC3s, FC, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, V8 conversion, 944, 912, Pontiac, Chevrolet, Chevy, Formula, WS6, SS, Z28, Z-28, LT1, LT-1, LS1, LS-1, F-body, Initial D

Sorry for the book! But I figured Wayne would want to know how his baby was getting fixed . LOL i am watching this posting/thread like a mother hen ! as i was digging in my garage for a vw tow bar a friend wants to borrow, i got to thinking, 2500 in singles, that would be quite an impressive stack. singles okay with you ?

as Mr Davy Z asked, is a store built or kit built scarab ? is it loaded up with scarab options, have the scarabs in the quarter vents, scarab valve covers, all the goodies ? that car, you'd want to preserve, collectors are a strange animal. even though upgrading the engine with an over bore, cam, ect, doesn't change the looks of the car, to a collector, an engine that has never been unbuttoned adds value to the car. the less you drive it the more valuable it is. ask yourself, do you want to own a museum piece or a driver ? i have owned several collectable cars over the years ( tri power 4 spd 65 gto , two 57 nomads, 70 LT-1 roadster, list goes on ), if they were all as the factory built em, no one had been monkeying with stuff before me, i kept em factory. if they had already been modified, the blush was off the rose and i did with em as i pleased. my car, screw the collectors, should have bought it before i did. if your scarab z is a kit scarab, one built at home with pieces sold by scarab, it has little real collector value, it's more of a curiosity item. my z, chucked the original radiator,added JTR radiator and taurus fan, friend of mine cut holes in the front fenders for trans am style scoops, shaved the door handles for remote electric door releases, removed and welded all the emblem holes shut. i changed the front brakes to toyota calipers, eventually will put discs on the rear ( kit is still in box in the garage ), looks like i am going to go coil overs, get rid of the struts. the hood was supposed to have a functional L-88 corvette hood scoop and air cleaner ( lost when body shop got sold, though my friend says he knows for sure where it is ). oh wheels and tires, currently it has 14 x7 konig rewinds on it. once the body is straightened out ( mickey mouse stuff now ), an MSA areo II body kit goes on it. did i mention, my z is a 1972 scarab, was all as built when i bought it ? even had the 280z wheels and matching hub caps on it ( as suggested by scarab ). it's a kit scarab, no big deal, other than being one of the 1st V8 z cars and having a bit of history, there are lots of kit scarabs out there. nothing special. modifying it to fit my likings. but, if it was a factory scarab with all the bells and whistles, now that deserves some respect, and would remain as close as i could keep it to the way it rolled out the doors of the shop in campbell. but that's me. your car, do what makes you happy. if you want to be the guardian of an original scarab and only take it to z functions to show it off, that's a fine thing to do. if you want to make it yours, and drive the wheels off it, that is great as well. most of the people who commisioned a scarab to be built or bought the kit, did it to drive the snot out of em. not to park em and let em collect dust. with age, they have become harder to find and more of a novelty. people tend to ohhh and awe when they see one ( well people that know what a 240z is anyway ), so it does have a collector status among a small group of car buffs. what ever you decide to do with it, remember, if it's creating more hassles in your life than it is bringing enjoyment and if you will loose sleep over it if you modify it, you don't want it. if a V8 z is what you want, buy one for sale here at hybrid or buy the JTR stuff and drop an LS 1 in. the scarab was alright in its day, it went fast and almost handled and stopped. the newly designed/engineered z swaps, with the better brakes, 5 speed trans, fuel injection, air conditioning, all that good stuff wow, leaps and bounds a better V8 than the scarab. the newer kits may not yet have the same soul as a scarab swap, but are much safer and better performing V8 z cars. your decision, your money, your enjoyment. my 82 cents worth wayne

Wayne, You're a NUT!!! oh, that's a given ! a nut backed up with loc-tite and cold cash. lol

i see the bumper. it was blending in with the reflections. thought maybe you had either removed it or had hidden it in the body work. i think i will try and hide a section of pipe under the msa rear bumper kit. good to have a trained, experienced body man looking at the car. as you said, he found that the gap at the door was off. cheapo shop would have fixed the rear panel and the 1/4, ignoring the twist of the body evident by the change in the gap at the door. sounds like you've found the right shop for the job. nice to know that you are taking proper care in repairing my future baby. thanks for going to all that trouble. and Pete, no worries, my word is my bond, that $2500 we agreed on is secure in the bank !

120 ! figure speedo ends at 120 you may have been doing 121 mph. you think the track will see the 3 do the same ?

hmmm, the needle on the speedo is on zero. i seem to remember an earlier posting with a pic of a neon speedo pushing 140 mph. i see you really, really like the color of Dan J's z. :-}

glad to hear nothing major, stiff neck and sore back ? seeing the pix brought up anger, hearing you express that it could have been worse calmed me down. the upsetting part is the damaged was caused by stupidity, not paying attention and poor driving skills. i know that triple a makes a stink about using their approved repair shops when ever they pay for damages. my brother found out the hard way, that he should have insisted on taking his car to the shop of his choice ( car was vandalized ). the shop did more damage doing their mickey mouse repairs than the bad guys did. after having the car back for a while, he found the garbage the shop had done. threatened to sue triple a, they paid for a non approved shop to fix the fix. stick to your guns, geico took financial responsibilty for their insured driver, means they have to satisfy you, not their pocket book. you should go to the doctor get your neck and back checked. i got rearended, didn't have my neck checked, years later screwed it up at work, appears that the accident compounded the work related injury. i thought i was fine, guess not. how did you hide that bumper ? eventually, i will be using the msa areo II body kit. i am leary of leaving the front and rear bumpers off. been thinking about how to hide something under the kit. again, glad to hear you are doing okay, and looking after my future z. wayne

the carrier has a boss. if you go to local post office, ask for the postmaster. unless the carrier is the brother in law he wanted off his couch, the post master will send a manager to your house. a sticker is placed on your mail box ( inside ) as well as several of your neighbor's, this informs the carrier that you are part of a quality study. from time to time, the post office management will contact you with a survey regarding the quality of the job the post office is doing. neighbor went to local office ( they do not know him there ), filed a complaint. substitute carrier was crushing magazines, mail at wrong addresses. note sub carrier was not a training, he has 15 yrs. he is back up for our regular carrier, she is his. reg carrier took temp transfer, back up carrier was our carrier for 3 months. he had same issues on his regular route. crumpled mail, wrong addresses, missing houses ( get a week's worth of mail on one day ). he just didn't give a rat's behind, he worked in an area of poor people, few ever complained. a sticker was placed in neighbor's mail box. carrier chose to ignore it. the neighbors were surveyed, carrier was suspended for a week, no pay. one of my neighbors is a manager at a different office. i had a sticker in my mail box, asked him what it was for, i didn't get surveyed. in checking to see why we had stickers, found the carrier had been suspended for a week no pay and moved to another route. sometimes the system works.

i'm hoping it won't. i've done it with other alts. as you suggest, fairly common practice. they put white security paint on one of the bolts. have to see how it goes. supposedly a two year warranty. i think i will clock it tomorrow. thanks, wayne

weird i posted a reply, but not there. i picked up a 108 amp alt from parts plus. cost me 99 and 30 core. they will take the 63 amp as core. the plug ended up on the top. i need to take it apart and rotate the housing so that my wiring will reach. this will of course cancel my warrantee. oh well. alt is about 1/2 larger in diameter. as my hood disappeared in the body shop event, i had to eye ball it with a straight edge. looks like i should be fine. hood should clear it with about thickness of a match book. fingers crossed. do you know, being as i'd prefer all this to come from the same place. MAD electric, i can get the entire set up for the taurus fan wiring from them ? i think that is what you and Pete suggested. i'm not very lucky at finding good used parts at the wreckers. not electrical relays and such, anyway !

regarding the taiwanese smog and safety check. could be why they are buying and shipping the pre 71 federal certified cars. i know the ghia i drove would not have been smog legal in calif. before the exemption of testing at reg. it has two carbs, a larger cam full mech 009 dist. the vapor control hoses and charcoal canister were missing. you think we get fumes in a z car, try a vw that ain't plumbed correctly and has bad weeping hoses. gas tank is in front, you get raw gas and even though the engine is in the rear, you get the unburned gas exhaust inside too. that was this ghia. he was gonna ship it to taiwan. told me he came across one that didn't run as well, but was prettier. says, lot's of vw speed equip available. cherry sharp looking cars are worth more, even if they don't run. you may be correct about the rhd thing, either that or because of japan's strict smog and safety rules, there may not be many z cars for sale.