Jerichowalker

Looks like you got the 6bolt CV flange on the diff flange. Most 95 M3s had the black sheep diff with the CV joint at the rear of the driveshaft. Any other year of the e36M3 will have the same case, but with a 4 bolt flange. The Auto M3s had a 3.38, which is a pretty common upgrade, but as far as taller gearing you may want to check out some 5 series diffs.

Facepalm please delete

As Promised I'll get some other detail shots later. I bought this as it sits, Haven't had the time or money to put into it. I'm not sure whether you were looking for a project or driver but this fits into the project category.

Where are you located? I have a 240z series one in Tucson,Az. No pictures at the moment but I'll add some once it stops raining here.

+1 on that. I test drove a z31 300zx, hit about 35 and bang the hood opened and slammed back on the windshield. My ex-girlfriend in the passenger seat starts screaming and crying at the same time, while I ask her if I pull off am I going to hit anything? "hey I kind of need your help right now can you stop crying and see if its safe to pull off thanks."

Reminds me of the 2010 Z4 coupe I was wondering how at home a set of those tails would look on my 240z. Anybody care to photochop?

+1 on that miata roll cage being a little impractical. It seems Z's and AR's should come as a package deal. If I can ever stop spending money on my Z I have my eye on a Glock 23 and a Ducati 999s. I'm quickly realizing I need to win the lottery.

+1 on the delrin set

I'm in need of a turn signal switch for my 76 280z because hand signals and downshifting don't go well while turning Let me know what you have and how much to ship it to 85716. Thanks

In my opinionated view the whale tail is like a Zcar mullet. Though I was an infant at the time and really have no basis of my dislike, the tail makes me immediately think 80's and neon yellow paint (read: dates the restoration, no offense to anyone with a neon yellow whale tailed z). Looks like a perfect candidate for a carbon roof skin, and a steal at $650. Congratulations on the buy

Do you know if these work with the HR 6speeds? I've heard the bellhousing bolt pattern is different, I guess I'm hoping thats where the difference stop.

Haha is that for the ignition? Actually my Z is the first car I haven't had to use a screwdriver to start. Good luck with those floors, sadly that looks all too familiar.

Yea I'm definately pushing hard for the manual swap. Even though it isnt my car it will save me a lot of work in the long run. Thanks for the response I'll try that out and see if it helps out. I've heard of the throttle cable issue on many of the z31s so Theres a good bet thats making the throttle stick.

I just went with a friend to pick up an 86 N/A 300zx with an Auto trans and it on par with buying a 20+ year old vehicle as soon as she gets it home it begins to express its issues The major issue it seems is with the transmission. When in Park or Neutral it idles high at about 1500 rpms, but as soon as you put in drive the rpm drop significantly to a regular idle around 800 rpm. Is it possible that the PO just raised the idle to keep it from stalling out while under load? Could it be the torque converter or similar slushbox black magic or is it an isssue with vacuum/timing? Btw this occurs when the engine is both hot and cold. Its amazing how these things never reveal themselves until after the test drive.

Your best bet is to take it down to a radiator shop and have it boiled out and coated. I had to have this done to a 76 Celica tank that was coated with gunk and rust. I'm sure I'm not the only one who will tell you its well worth it to not stall out because of clogged filters or fuel lines. Also the celica had an access panel in the spare tire well that allowed the pump/screen/fuel level sensor to be removed with the tank in the car. I would highly recommend that if you do decide to run an in tank pump you consider doing the same as its nice not to have to drop the tank for a fuel pump/filter change. Check out http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124229 post #7. Montzer has a really nice setup. Edit: Realized you said inline pump, I thought walbro 255's were all in tank.

Wow is that stack of square tubing a swaybar mount. Makes me think I need to go through mine from top to bottom to make sure I don't find any PO "fixes" like that.

Yes indeed that is what I'm saying. I posted this as a question of what is the general opinion of the best motor for the Z platform, not to entirely focus on my build but get an idea from those who have swapped and driven different combinations which they prefer. I think both the N/A VQ and VH would serve the purpose, but the RB is also viable in that with slight modifications to the turbo system the power gains are comparable to turbocharging either of the previous mentioned engines. From my personal opinion I see building a VH or VQ to 350-400 reliable streetable horsepower as being cheaper than building a full race l28. With that said though I most likely will turbo my L28 while I do the much needed brake, safety, suspension, and eletrical upgrades that the car needs for that power. But the 6sp...

As far as my project goes I'm still learning alot, I've done a good deal of wrenching and wiring, my most limiting ability will be my welding but I'm practicing my mig and am soon to start with tig. The car is going to be a GTR inspired daily driver, meaning I will probably keep the ammenities, and still be keeping an eye on mpg. I've got access to a machine shop as well as a junkyard so the suspension and brakes will be taken from various platforms and adapted. As far as power I'm thinking 300hp and then turbocharging down the road. Because of all these reasons I'm heavily leaning towards a Vq swap. The only thing holding me back is I have a VH45 pulled along with ecu harness diff half shafts ect. I am debating heavily between those 2. I understand the potential of the l28 but a stroked triple weber high compression motor on race gas will give me the power of a stock VQ, even with boost its not a fair match.

I'd possibly be interested in some panels as well. I've got a roll of carbon prepreg layin around here somewhere, now where did I put it

I'm having a difficult time deciding which engine to replace my L28 with. I know this discussion has been had before but I want to quantify the various opinions on various engine platforms. L28: Pros-Original and accessible. Cons- Trying to coax 300+hp with pump gas becomes $$$, Weight, Aftermarket support is limited. Non-crossflow design raises intake temps ect. ect. SR20det: Pros-Weight, Weight distribution, Aftermarket support Cons-again a lack of power unless you throw a MONSTER turbo on. Vh45de: Pros-Displacement, slightly better than either of the I6's but not as good as the V6 or Sr20, bulletproof 6 bolt main bottom end known to handle high boost. Cost Cons-Width, Second highest weight next to the RB motors, Transmission adaptation, Huge lack of any aftermarket support. and last but not least the difficulty of installation. Vq35de: Pros-Weight, Distribution, Power, Aftermarket support, 6spd trans, parts availability. Cons- NATS(easy to overcome but contributes to >), Cost Rb25det: Pros-Power, I6 Heritage, good trans, did I mention Power Cons-As mentioned above its the heaviest out of all the options weighing in at over 700lbs:shock:. Also I'm not looking forward to the confused looks I get at checkers when I ask them to cross reference spark plug thread pitches so I can try and find something that works with an engine not distributed in the US. Cost is probably similar to the VQ swap

Thanks for the replies. I forgot to mention I have the hazard switch and both the defogger and seat belt light connected. After finding the original rear defogger switch deep beneath the seat I see that it has a red/white, green/white lead making me think it isn't the yellowish 2 pin connector but I very easily could be wrong. The antenna switch makes sense and would also explain why it does nothing, as I do not have a power antenna. After a closer inspection this is what I've found. The rectangular six pin has white, white/black, red/blue, green/white, black, and blue wires. The Blue is Acc+, the Black is the -, while the red/blue, and green/white only go a foot with the harness and then come out with a male and female connector respectively, along with an OEM style 2pin connector of the same colors. You can see this in the background of both pictures. The yellowish connector has a blue/yellow, and a black ground. The T shaped connector has a blue Acc+ and a blue/white which is non continuous with the momentary switch. Again thanks for all the help, with another few hours of multimeter probing this thing could be brought back from the land of nightmare harnesses.

I just started working on a 1976 280z, I decided to fill the hole that once housed the stock radio. About a day later I've removed the dual aftermarket radio harnesses wired in parallel, and all the T-splices from the wiper system, but I still have some Bond style switches (you know the kind you flip somewhat afraid of what might happen, and then when nothing does you flip it off quickly hoping nothing caught on fire ) and some wiring unaccounted for. Sorry for the crappy cell pics but its all I've got at the moment. This is of the three connectors that I'm unsure of. I assume on is for the rear defogger switch and possibly one is for the original stereo? Finally there is a momentary on-off-on wired in to a blue Acc+, a blue/white(non continuous with connector previously mentioned), and a blue/red. Sorry for the long winded post but I couldn't find a wiring diagram that could answer my questions. Any help with the purpose of the connectors or the reasoning behind that switch would be greatly appreciated.